Prince of Wales Bakery: Old Dhaka's 175-year-old taste of time

Cross St Thomas' Cathedral in Old Dhaka and walk a little further to reach Bahadur Shah Park. Turn left and continue for a short distance. On your right stands Holy Cross Church. As you draw closer, the air suddenly changes. A warm, sweet aroma of bread and cake fills your senses. 

Follow that scent, and you will find a modest shop, one of Dhaka's oldest surviving bakeries. Its signboard has the image of the British Crown. The name is also regal, "Prince of Wales Bakery".

Established in 1850, even before the Sepoy Mutiny, this bakery has stood the test of time for more than 175 years. At that time, old Dhaka was a city shaped by European officials, merchants, missionaries and Nawabi aristocracy. Prince of Wales Bakery was founded to cater to the refined tastes of the city's elite, particularly European residents who longed for familiar flavours in a distant colony.

Despite political upheavals, demographic shifts, and the relentless transformation of Dhaka, Prince of Wales Bakery continues to command trust and affection especially among the Christian community. For Christmas, Easter and other religious occasions, it remains a name of unwavering reliance.

Wales to Laxmibazar

Historically, the title Prince of Wales belonged to the rulers of an independent Welsh territory. That changed in 1282 when King Edward I of England conquered Wales, stripping its rulers of their sovereignty and title. Edward I later conferred the title upon his son, Edward II, establishing a tradition that continues today, the heir to the British throne is known as the Prince of Wales.

But how did this royal title find its way onto a bakery signboard in Laxmibazar?

The answer is in the bakery's founder, a businessman from Wales. Drawn by colonial trade opportunities, he established the bakery in Old Dhaka in 1850. From the outset, Prince of Wales Bakery earned a reputation for quality and consistency among European residents and local elites alike.

During the Partition of Bengal movement, the Welsh founder returned to his homeland. Before leaving, he handed over the bakery to his trusted disciple, Sheikh Badruddin, fondly known as Buddhu Miah.

Having worked at the bakery for years, Buddhu Miah was thoroughly trained in European baking traditions. He retained the original name, recipes and ethos of the establishment.

Today, the bakery is owned and run by Buddhu Miah's descendants. His five sons inherited the business, and now the third generation is carrying the legacy forward.

Woven into community life

Michael D'Renzo was born and raised in Old Dhaka. Coming from an Anglo-Indian family with Portuguese roots, he grew up immersed in the neighbourhood's Christian culture, and Prince of Wales Bakery was part of his everyday life.

"Since the British era, many Christian families have lived in this area," he said. "Anglo-Indians were particularly concentrated in Laxmibazar and Rokonpur. The bakery was central to all our festivals and celebrations."

D'Renzo remembers a time when the bakery was much larger and steeped in colonial-era tradition. Inside, there was a grand glass showcase displaying baked goods. Portraits of the British King and Queen adorned the walls.

Buddhu Miah had purchased the bakery for just Tk200, and these visual remnants of the empire remained visible even during the Pakistan period.

"Time has changed, Dhaka has changed, and ownership has changed," D'Renzo added. "The shop has gradually become smaller. But its reputation never faded."

Afrina Hoque, a teacher at St Francis Xavier's Girls' School and College, grew up in Laxmibazar and studied at the same institution where she now teaches. Prince of Wales Bakery has been a constant presence throughout her life.

"During our school days, we used to eat their food during tiffin," she said. "Now my students love it just as much."

The bakery regularly supplies food for school programmes and events. "They are clean, reliable and consistent," Hoque explained. "That is why we keep coming back."

Christmas at Prince of Wales

"Many bakeries have opened in Old Dhaka since the Pakistan era," said Michael D'Renzo. "But none of them centre their offerings around Christmas the way the Prince of Wales does."

He remembers how, during his childhood, the bakery would become almost inaccessible from 22 December due to overwhelming crowds. A Christmas fair would spill onto the street. Cakes sold in large numbers, and the festive atmosphere was unmistakable.

"There was cheesecake, a pastry called Love Letter, and the Christmas fruit cake," he recalled. "Nothing compares to the taste of those foods."

Anglo-Indian families often prepared their own cake batter at home and brought it to the bakery to be baked free of charge. "Whenever Christmas came, the bakery itself felt like a festival," D'Renzo added.

That tradition, though scaled down, continues today.

Our secret is the wood-fired oven. It gives the food a distinct taste. We also preserve recipes that are hundreds of years old. And we value our relationship with customers. That is why we do not raise prices easily, even when raw material costs increase.

Tanvir Ahmed, Quality Control Manager, Prince of Wales Bakery

Preparations for Christmas at Prince of Wales Bakery begin in early December. Winter ushers in seasonal items, while Christmas-specific delicacies start arriving in mid-December. Alongside regular products, two special items dominate the festive menu: Cheesecake and Love Letter.

The latter owes its name to its paper wrapping and, according to popular belief, was served at the wedding of Queen Elizabeth II. Neither item can be made during the summer. Both sell for Tk40 each.

"These are made primarily for Christmas," explained shop employee Saidur Rahman.

The signature Christmas fruit cake arrives from 17 December onwards. It requires special ingredients and considerable skill. Mohammad Muslim, the head baker, has been working at Prince of Wales for nearly 50 years.

"This cake needs a lot of ghee," he said. "We use flour, powdered milk, warm spices, raisins, morabba, cherry, plum, special gur and sugar."

Every step of the process is done by hand. The cakes are baked over a wood fire, not in electric ovens, just as they were decades ago.

Tradition over profit

Tanvir Ahmed, representing the third generation of owners, oversees quality control. During this year's Christmas preparations, he could be seen instructing staff to increase the amount of ghee in the cakes.

"Our fruit cake costs Tk400 per pound," he said. "Many customers place advance orders. We never compromise on Christmas quality. Profit is limited, but tradition matters more."

Customers come not only from Old Dhaka but from across the city, and even from abroad. "The Christian community has spread out," Tanvir explained. "But no one forgets us. When Christmas comes, they return."

Churchgoers remain their primary customers. Every week, after prayers, families bring their children to the bakery. Beyond Christmas, sales peak on Easter Sunday and Good Friday.

"What matters most is customer satisfaction," Tanvir said. "We will do whatever is necessary to ensure that."

The bakery offers something for everyone. Colourful pastries attract children, while adults favour slice cakes, patties, cream rolls and chicken rolls. Prices range between Tk20 and Tk60. Pound cakes start at Tk400. Bread, biscuits and toast are staples.

Many customers from across Dhaka visit specifically for the breakfast bread. Prince of Wales Bakery is also renowned for its wedding cakes and large ceremonial orders. Recently, the bakers produced a 100-pound cake for the centenary celebration of a prominent hospital founder–a cake worth seven and a half lakh taka.

So what sets Prince of Wales apart from modern live bakeries?

"Our secret is the wood-fired oven," Tanvir explained. "It gives the food a distinct taste. We also preserve recipes that are hundreds of years old. And we value our relationship with customers. That is why we do not raise prices easily, even when raw material costs increase."

Prince of Wales Bakery is not just a shop; it is a living heritage of Dhaka. Passed down through generations with care and commitment, it continues to serve faith, flavour and memory in equal measure.

When asked about the future, Tanvir smiled. "We inherited this from our fathers and uncles. Whether the next generation carries it forward depends on their interest. But the door will always remain open."