Halted exports from Bangladesh throws Delhi's fish market into turmoil

An enclave for all things Bengali (from pujo to phuchka) in the heart of Delhi, Chittaranjan Park is staring at an unusual crisis.

Geopolitical turmoil in Bangladesh has shaken kitchens in the south Delhi colony – it has pushed fish prices in the colony's markets through the roof, squeezed supplies to a trickle and pushed a delicacy off the menu.

Exports from Bangladesh have stopped since Sheikh Hasina resigned as Bangladesh prime minister amid mayhem on August 5, said shopkeepers and wholesalers, forcing suppliers to source supplies from other parts of the country.

But, for CR Park, that isn't good enough. Authenticity is everything and only the cross-border catch will do.

"Most Bengalis are not comfortable with Indian-origin varieties. They prefer to buy Padma Ilish (hilsa sourced from the Padma river) at ₹3,000 a kilo rather than Gujarati Ilish for a third of the price," said Dulal Chandra, who owns a shop in CR Park Market 1.

"They prefer Dhakai Pabda at ₹1,800 a kilogram than the Andhra variety at ₹900," he added.

Other varieties such as shol, padba, shing and koi which were exported from India's eastern neighbour have also dissipated from store shelves, forcing people to go local, said shopkeepers

"For the past few days, ilish supplies have dwindled because of what's happening in Bangladesh. Many people who have some stocks are hoarding it and selling it at a premium," said Pradeep Manna, a fish seller in Market 2.

"You also have ilish from Odisha," he said. "But it's not the same."

Where fish is a staple, ilish, or hilsa, is a delicacy for most Bengali homes, and forms the backbone of spreads during festivities and celebrations. To be sure, Dhaka banned the import of ilish to India in 2012, citing production shortages and disagreements over the Teesta water-sharing agreement. However, in 2013, then prime minister Hasina allowed limited imports in the weeks before Durga Puja every year in what became known as "hilsa diplomacy".

The ban, however, has had little impact on dining tables, whether in West Bengal or Delhi, with fishers exploiting loopholes at the border to ship fish through for more than a decade.

Traders said CR Park consumes around 60 quintals of fish a month, and all of Delhi 300 quintals. Varieties from Bangladesh account for a third of this share, and with this supply nearly wiped out, homes are feeling the pinch and shopkeepers are scrambling to retain customers.

Are there any official numbers? Do we know how much fish CR park consumes

"Our family used to eat fish every alternate day. But now, we prefer chicken and eggs in our meals now," said Sanjoy Sengupta, a resident of nearby Masjid Moth who travels to CR Park several times a week for his piscine supplies.

Worse still, residents complain that the stocks which occupied pride of place on the high concrete slabs in the colony's buzzing markets are now tasteless at best and stale at worst.

"Most of the fish varieties available in CR Park market are stale," said Sengupta.

Cross-border tensions have been heightened across India's eastern frontier since August 5, with the Border Security Force (BSF) under strict instructions from the Union home ministry to keep illegal immigrants away. Similarly, trade has been it across the board as well.

Subrata Dasgupta, who travels from his Defence Colony home to CR Park's fishmarket, said poor quality is a turn-off for him now.

"I don't know what is happening. The price of Padma Ilish has soared to over ₹2,600 per kilogram and even those fish are stinking. The supplies from Gujarat just doesn't cut muster," he said.

"Our plates are lacking the usual flavour because of this conflict," said Nirmalendu Dutta, secretary of CR Park K-block's residents' welfare association.

He also outlined a deeper worry that has rippled through the colony's lanes, compact households and its famous kerbside tea stalls – the choked supply may derail Durga Puja celebrations.

Ilish preparations are key to the 10-day festival, which begins on October 4.

"If the standstill continues, it will definitely ruin the fervour of Durga Puja in our locality," said Dutta.

Syed Anwar Maqsood, secretary of the Fish Importers' Association in West Bengal, said they were also concerned about supplies ahead of the festival.

"Legally, supplies are banned. Bangladesh usually allows around 3,900 tonnes of hilsa to be exported ahead of Durga Puja. This year, though, we are unsure if that will happen given the regime change," he said.

Restaurants in CR Park have also had to reorient their recipes to adjust for the crunch.

"The prices of our signature Bhapa Ilish preparation have not changed, but we have been forced to shrink quantities," said a spokesperson of Oh! Calcutta restaurant in nearby Greater Kailash 3.