Perfume Lane of Old Dhaka: Oasis of enchanting aromas

In a city associated with heaps of garbage and overpowering odours, the air in a certain area in the old part of the city conveys an unexpected delight of enchanting fragrances.

The Perfume Lane in Old Dhaka's Mitford Road, one of the largest wholesale perfume hubs in Bangladesh. Retailers from across the country source their fragrances from here.

A short ride from Gulistan – by bus to Babubazar Bridge or by rickshaw to Mitford Hospital – leads fragrance enthusiasts to this aromatic paradise.

The crown jewel of Perfume Lane is Lahore Chemicals. For nearly three decades, this establishment has imported fine fragrances from Saudi Arabia, France, Germany, Italy and India.

The store welcomes customers with views of shelves lined with nearly a thousand bottles, none smaller than five to eight litres. Each bears labels from different brands, while intricately designed glass vials lend the place a regal aura. These smaller vials are used to distribute perfumes in measured quantities based on customer demand.

An employee said perfume shops began emerging on Mitford Road in the 1980s. Back then, a few chemical factories operated there, but they have since relocated, making way for an extensive network of wholesale and retail stores.

"Previously, importing perfumes was simpler, with flexible customs regulations ensuring the availability of authentic products. But with stricter controls today, even high prices don't always guarantee genuine fragrances."

Away from Lahore Chemicals stands a two-storey building dedicated entirely to perfume and attar.

The ground floor houses eight shops, each showcasing an exquisite display of attar bottles. Buyers test scents, dabbing them on to their wrists, blending and layering to create unique fragrances.

The second floor is equally vibrant, offering an even greater selection that attracts customers from far and wide. Here, it becomes evident that Perfume Lane is home to Bangladesh's finest collection of scents.

Hidden gem

Nestled between grand establishments, a modest shop named Abdullah Perfume has made its mark in just eighteen months.

Despite its size, the store boasts an impressive assortment of nearly 200 perfumes and attars sourced from India, Indonesia, Dubai and Saudi Arabia.

Its owner, Noor Alam, said the most coveted attars include Kashmiri Oud and Amir al Oud, priced at Tk8,000 and Tk12,000 per litre, respectively. Classics like Kasturi and Jannat continue to hold their ground, while brands such as Ehsaas al Arabia, BR45, Salma, Choco Musk, Royal Mirage, Victoria's Secret and Cool Water remain customer favourites.

At Abdullah Perfume, customers can even customise fragrances. Popular brands like Fogg, Axe and Wild Stone serve as inspiration for tailored creations.

Additionally, upon special request, authentic attars and perfumes can be imported directly. Unlike larger wholesalers, small-scale shops like these cater to customers looking for minute quantities, making the experience both personal and accessible.

Digital fragrance

Perfume Lane's influence extends beyond its physical borders. Online platforms are now amplifying the fragrance trade, with social media playing a pivotal role.

Ziaur Rahman, the entrepreneur behind the Facebook page "Obsession", exemplifies this shift.

With a family history of perfume trading spanning four decades, he saw an opportunity during the pandemic. What began with just 35 followers has since grown into a thriving online business with nearly 9.8 million followers, catering to fragrance lovers across Bangladesh.

More than just perfume

Perfume Lane isn't just about fragrance; it is also a hub for industrial chemicals. Larger stores stock acids, alkalis and other essential ingredients, catering to both perfumers and various industries.

At establishments like Borhan, Boishakhi, Royal and Bengal Chemicals, experienced traders offer more than just products - they share decades of knowledge.

In one store, a customer was seen discussing the formula for making Harpic with a shopkeeper, showcasing the expertise built over generations.

Future of Bangladesh's fragrance

As consumer preferences evolve, "pocket perfumes" have surged in popularity. Street vendors now sell compact bottles on buses, while footpath stalls offer 50-100ml bottles priced between Tk100 and Tk350. From soft, floral notes to bold, musky aromas, there's something for everyone.

Historically, perfume industries have thrived in places plagued by strong odours. France's perfume empire, for instance, emerged to mask the stench of tanneries.

By that logic, Dhaka holds immense potential.

If Bangladesh shifts towards indigenous perfume production, it could not only reduce import dependency but also establish a new export industry, generating valuable foreign revenue.

Perfume Lane, with its rich history and thriving trade, is more than just a marketplace - it is a testament to Dhaka's evolving olfactory landscape.

Who knows? Perhaps in the future, Bangladeshi perfumes will earn global recognition, celebrated for their unique and captivating aromas.