How five of Dhaka’s top eateries have stood the test of time
In this piece, we explore the reasons behind their enduring success, the strategies they use to survive, the relationships they have built with customers, and their commitment to preserving taste and service quality
With time, as Dhaka has changed, so have the food preferences of its denizens. Yet the names of some restaurants remain constant, their food still as popular as ever, and their reputations etched into Dhaka's culinary heritage.
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Maintaining unwavering popularity is no easy feat, but some eateries in Old Dhaka have achieved this by retaining the familiar taste, quality and trustworthiness for years. Some have grown from modest tin-roofed shops into multiple branches, while others have won over diverse segments of society with simple, heartfelt food.
In this piece, we explore the reasons behind their enduring success, the strategies they have used to survive, the relationships they have built with customers, and their commitment to preserving taste and service quality.
Rabbani Hotel and Restaurant, Mirpur
Golam Rabbani used to work in a jute mill until 1972, when he lost his job. At first, he started a fruit business on the pavement in front of his home. But when that proved insufficient to support his family, he turned to his wife, who was a skilled cook.
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With a tin roof, bamboo walls on three sides, two stools, and a table, Rabbani opened a tiny food stall at the four-way intersection near Nannu Market in Mirpur-11. Initially, most of his customers were Biharis, to whom he served their favourites — beef, paratha, bot (offal), and tea. The hotel quickly became known for its bhuna beef.
As footfall grew, he expanded the space. A few years later, with advice from well-wishers, Rabbani reopened the restaurant on a grander scale at the same spot. He added chicken chaap, seekh kabab, and tikka kabab to the menu.
Rabbani was in no rush to add more items to the menu. And despite growing demand, he took his time opening new branches as well. In the early 1980s, he opened a second branch near the Mirpur-11 bus stand — also in a tin-roofed building.
At that time, Mirpur was largely disconnected from central Dhaka. The roads were broken and narrow, and customers were mainly locals. But as the restaurant's reputation spread and the roads improved during the Ershad era, customers from all over Dhaka began arriving.
Later, another branch opened in Jhutpotti — tin-walled, but with a concrete foundation this time around. Over time, customer demands evolved — not just good food, but also a clean and hygienic environment. Rabbani responded by moving the shop to a concrete building with upgraded chairs, tables, utensils, and a dedicated cleaning staff.
Golam Rabbani was generous. He prioritised service alongside business. Many times, even at a loss, he maintained food quality and cleanliness. He always monitored prices to ensure they stayed affordable for ordinary customers.
Asked about the reasons for the hotel's continued improvement, Md Saifullah, manager of Rabbani Hotel and Restaurant, said, "Rabbani retained his staff by ensuring they were well-fed and never delayed their salaries, even during times of hardship. Five of the original staff are still working there, some having moved up to managerial positions."
He added that Rabbani never compromised on food quality, even if it cost more. He prioritised taste over flashy decor.
"With loyal employees, there was never a shortage of skilled chefs. The taste of the food remained consistent. He also wouldn't turn away any customer who said they didn't have enough money to pay," Saifullah further said.
"Rabbani raised his children to carry his values, and they now run the hotel with the same principles," he concluded.
We spoke to Saifullah at the Jhutpatti branch in Mirpur — a 2,400 square-feet space with four five-tonne air conditioners, operating from morning till 10pm. Another nearby branch stays open 24 hours.
The Jhutpotti branch is the busiest, mainly due to its parking facilities. According to Saifullah, the quality of an eatery does not depend on expensive interiors. "Many high-end restaurants have shut down, while Rabbani's continues to thrive as a 'Bangla Hotel'."
The restaurant now has five branches and three sweet shops. Their bhuna beef and tea remain the most popular items on the menu. Saifullah revealed they use date palm jaggery in their tea, but add nothing special to the beef — just traditional spices.
With 50 dishes on the menu, highlights include Morog Polao, Kacchi Biryani, Beef Tehari, Chicken Jhal Fry, Dal Khasi, Chicken Grill, Keema Puri, Faluda, Beef Nehari, Roomali Roti, and Kheeri Kabab.
Star Hotel and Restaurant
Mojaher Mia, a man in his 70s and the proprietor of Mojaher Traders in Wari, used to frequent the Society Hotel in Thatari Bazaar, where people once lined up for its famous tea.
In 1964, Mir Momtaz Uddin learned the recipe for that tea from Karachi. A year later, he opened the first branch of Star Hotel across the road from Society Hotel. Initially, no beef dishes were served to ensure inclusivity across religious lines.
Today, Star has 12 branches across Dhaka, with its reputation having spread far and wide.
We visited the Joykali Mandir area in Wari, where Momtaz Uddin's family home still stands. His father once ran a bakery on the ground floor — the root of the family's food legacy.
Society Hotel eventually shut down due to property divisions, which turned out to be a blessing for Star.
Mojaher Mia recalled, "Momtaz Uddin was a good man — hardworking and punctual. He arrived at the hotel at the same time every day and tasted every dish. If anything wasn't up to standard, he'd guide the kitchen staff."
Star's mutton leg and tandoori roti quickly became hits. After Thatari Bazaar, he opened 'Hotel Super' in the Joykali Mandir house, which served as both a residence and a hotel.
He also introduced 'Staff Food', affordable meals for customers of all classes. That made Star an eatery for everyone, not just the elite.
At Mojaher Traders behind Hotel Super, we met Mahmud Ali, a relative of the Star family. He said, "Even now, before introducing new dishes, they do taste testing with regular people. I've been a tester myself."
He also credited Star's success to cleanliness, hygienic practices and a spacious environment. In the early days, Momtaz Uddin personally shopped for fish and meat. Now, trusted suppliers meet their needs.
Star even has its own farm in Madanganj, Narayanganj, with 150 cows, a large pond, and vegetable cultivation. This ensures a fresh supply of dairy and vegetables.
Branches in Banani, Gulshan, Karwan Bazar, Janjan Road in Old Dhaka, and Dhanmondi cater to all social classes. Reportedly, they sell nearly 15,000 plates of biryani every day.
Mahmud Ali revealed that Star only opens branches on its own land — ensuring control over utilities. Their Tehari sells out before noon, though they do not increase volume to avoid compromising quality.
Today, Star is managed by Mir Akhtar Uddin, son of Momtaz Uddin, who studied finance at Dhaka University. Though initially eyeing a banking career, his father brought him into the family business.
He started at Taj Bakery, moved on to the bakery in Pritam Bhaban, and after proving his skills, took over restaurant operations. He is now as deeply involved as his father once was.
Star now serves Mughlai, Bangla, Chinese, and fast food. Kacchi Biryani, mutton leg roast, chicken tawa kabab, and reshmi kabab are all in high demand. Chinese dishes include fried rice and chili chicken.
"Star's food prices are low for the quality offered," said Mahmud. For example, chicken tikka kabab (quarter) is Tk120, while the chicken tawa jhal fry is Tk220.
Mir Akhtar Uddin's sisters are now involved in the business too. One question from their father still guides Star's philosophy: Why should a hungry person have to turn away from a food shop?
Hotel Al Razzak, Bangshal
Hossain Molla, once the councillor of Ward 35 and even acting mayor of Dhaka, opened Hotel Al Razzak in the 1990s with a simple goal — to feed people well, not to maximise profits.
At the time, Bangshal lacked good eateries. Nazirabazar was not yet a bustling food hub, and Raisabazar and Koltabazar were still relatively empty. However, many people visited the area daily for business, especially at the nearby plain sheet warehouses. Keeping them in mind, Hossain Molla opened the hotel and named it Al Razzak, after his father.
The hotel quickly became popular, renowned for its kacchi biryani and mutton glassi. Its tea also gained a devoted following.
At the entrance of Al Razzak, a 'No Beef' sticker stands out. Supervisor Jamir Hossain Sourav explained that Hossain Molla wanted the hotel to be inclusive to all religions. He was religious and compassionate, and his decisions reflected those values.
From the beginning, Al Razzak was relatively large — 20 tables, 80 chairs, four women's cabins, and a long table. The separate cabins were designed to accommodate purdah-observing women.
The hotel's greatest asset was its chef, Oahab Bawarchi, renowned for his kacchi. He could estimate the perfect cooking temperature and duration without any instruments. Though he has since passed away, his apprentices continue the legacy, and his son-in-law is now one of the hotel's main chefs — ensuring the signature taste lives on.
Al Razzak still cooks using wood-fired stoves, a major reason behind its distinctive flavour. One standout dish is anam — a whole lamb often served at weddings as a symbol of status in Old Dhaka.
Their soup is another customer favourite, especially among patients from nearby hospitals like Mitford, National Hospital and Matrisadan. Sourav attributes Al Razzak's success to its spacious layout, fresh food, premium ingredients, and reasonable pricing.
Notably, Al Razzak was the first to introduce Sehri meals during Ramadan in Dhaka. Initially intended for security personnel working overnight shifts, it became immensely popular with the public and eventually inspired other hotels to follow suit.
The restaurant even attracts foreign visitors, particularly from Spain and Sweden. Many make a point to dine at Al Razzak during their visits. Their favourite: the famous mutton glassi.
Today, over a thousand customers dine at Al Razzak daily. Sourav points to their high rate of returning customers as proof of their consistent quality.
However, increasing traffic congestion around Gulistan has made it harder for many to visit. The restaurant has yet to partner with any food delivery platforms.
After Hossain Molla's death, his son returned from the US to take charge. Rather than making flashy changes, he has focused on preserving the restaurant's quality and upholding his father's vision.
Jannat Hotel, Mohammadpur
Babul Hossain, now 58, spent 17 years in Saudi Arabia, much of that time working in the kebab section of a hotel. When he returned to Bangladesh in 2010, his cousin Haji Md Yunus — who already ran multiple branches of Jannat Hotel across Dhaka — invited him to manage the Town Hall branch in Mohammadpur.
By then, Jannat had already earned a solid reputation. The first branch opened in 2002. Haji Yunus personally taught Babul the ins and outs of hotel management.
"Running a hotel isn't easy," Babul said. "Good food attracts customers, but good management keeps them coming. I learned this from Yunus Bhai."
Asked how Jannat became so reputable, he explained, "My brother is religious and hard-working. He believes that feeding people well is a virtuous act. He's my mentor."
Every day, Jannat Hotel offers over 50 dishes and operates from 6am to midnight. The premises are cleaned thoroughly before closing.
The daily schedule is as follows: roti, paratha, bhaji, nehari, soup in the morning; rice, fish, meat, biryani in the afternoon; reshmi kabab, Afghani kabab, beef chaap, chicken jhal fry, tandoori roti in the evening; and rice, fish and meat at night.
Groceries come from Karwan Bazar, while meat and fish are sourced locally from the Mohammadpur Town Hall area. When large quantities are needed, spices are bought from Moulvibazar.
The hotel has 15 tables and 60 chairs, which are rarely empty in the afternoon. According to Babul, kababs are their most in-demand items, followed by tandoori roti and haleem.
We met two regulars, Mazedul Islam and Shahidul Haque — both over 60 — enjoying haleem and roti. They said they have snacks at the Jannat Hotel at least twice a week.
Shahidul said, "The hotel's reputation is based on quality. Look at this roti — other places make 15–16 pieces from a kilo of flour; here, they make 10–11. Yet, the price isn't much different. They use fresh vegetables in their bhaji, which is why we don't go anywhere else."
Babul explained, "You can tell a good hotel by its salad. Is the cucumber local or hybrid? Are the green chillies fresh? Is the lemon ripe or raw? We don't use adulterated ingredients. For example, papaya can cost either Tk30 or Tk50; we always go for the better one. It doesn't make a big difference in cost, but it matters in terms of quality. Others sell Mughlai paratha for Tk90; we sell it for Tk100."
Running a hotel means paying attention to every detail — which table has leftovers, where glasses are missing, where there is dirt, how much meat is on each tawa, and more.
Babul shared an observation, "At the cash counter, customers are impatient; they want quick service, increasing the risk of mistakes. In Chinese restaurants, customers behave more politely. But in Bangla hotels, their impatience rises. That's why not everyone can survive in this business."
Babul's father was a farmer. As a teenager, Babul worked the land with him. Later, he wanted to go to Saudi Arabia but did not even have the Tk800 needed for a passport. A relative gave him Tk1,000 — and that is how his journey began. Over the years, he helped more than a hundred people get to Saudi Arabia.
Now, for the past six years, he has managed the Mohammadpur branch of Jannat Hotel. Haji Yunus still visits occasionally and is satisfied with the management. Babul's father passed away a year and a half ago — he used to cry tears of joy at his son's progress. His mother is still alive, and he often brings her to Jannat to eat whatever she wants.
"Our whole family prefers Jannat Hotel," Babul said, "because we never use adulterated ingredients here."
Jagannath Bhojonaloy, Tanti Bazar
Tucked away on the second floor of building no. 110 in Tanti Bazar, Old Dhaka, Jagannath Bhojonaloy continues to serve the same quality of vegetarian meals in the same humble setting. Although ownership changed two years ago, the taste of the food remains unchanged — the original recipes are still followed.
This no-frills, vegetarian-friendly eatery has no signboards or lavish interiors. Customers climb a narrow, dim staircase to the second floor, past peeling paint and crumbling walls. Still, its reputation holds strong.
Jagannath Bhojonaloy does not need any advertisement — the food speaks for itself.
Since its establishment in 2005, the eatery has provided dependable vegetarian meals for the Sanatan Hindu community. Over time, people from other religions also became regulars.
After founder Shyamal Adhikari, the restaurant changed hands a few times, from Nitai Pal to Ashok Kobiraj, and is now run by 25-year-old Govind Krishna Das.
Govind, who began cooking at age 10, arrived here with his guru Ashok.
He has made slight changes to the décor and repainted the walls, but the taste remains unchanged — and so does the regular customer base.
Govind said, "We cook consciously. If needed, we cook less — but we never serve stale food. If anything is left over, we give it to the needy."
Every day, the kitchen serves 20 varieties of vegetarian dishes: dal, bharta (mashed vegetables), chhana (cottage cheese), shak (spinach), bhaji (fried vegetables), paneer, veggie soya, dhoka, bora (fritters), rosha (curries), and more. Popular dishes include dal, veggie soya, and soya paneer — so flavourful that many mistake them for meat. The veggie soya is imported from India and is more expensive than local alternatives.
No onion or garlic is used in any dish. After cooking, all items are laid out in steel bowls so customers can choose what they want.
Meals are priced affordably, so there is something for everyone. Every day, 250–300 customers eat here, many of them students from the nearby Jagannath University.
This article was originally written and published in Bangla. Translated by Anonno Afroz.
