How communal bath houses, food vans in Karwan Bazar sustain Dhaka’s working class

As dawn breaks over Dhaka, Karwan Bazar, a marketplace in the heart of the city dating back to the 17th century, erupts into motion. 

Trucks arrive, loaded with fresh produce from across the country. Men, their muscles taut from years of hard labour, lift sacks of potatoes, onions, and rice onto their shoulders, carrying the produce through the narrow alleys with ease. The air is thick with the scent of damp earth, fish and sweat.

Yet, beyond the market's well-documented hustle, a quieter story unfolds; one of an overlooked but vital network that sustains the city's working class.

The communal bathing houses and food vans in the area provide thousands of the city's labourers with access to hygiene and affordable food, necessities often taken for granted by Dhaka's more privileged residents.

For decades, communal bathing houses have been an indispensable part of Karwan Bazar, serving day labourers, rickshaw pullers, hawkers, and market loaders who lack proper sanitation facilities at home. Many of these workers live in cramped slums where running water is a luxury. But here, a small fee buys them not just cleanliness but dignity.

"These bath houses have existed here since the British period," says Mohammad Rohim, who manages one such establishment. "They are a tradition in this place."

There are at least 20 bath houses in Karwan Bazar, ranging from traditional to modern and semi-modern facilities. 

The traditional ones, which remain the most popular, consist of large water tanks or bodies of clean water drawn up through deep pumps. Workers lower buckets tied with ropes, hoisting them up before pouring the water over their bodies. The more modern ones have taps and showers, while the semi-modern ones use motorised pumps to supply water.

The services are cheap and structured to be accessible. Bathing alone costs Tk5, using the toilet costs another Tk5, while washing one's face and feet costs Tk3. A combined package for all services is available for Tk10.

Some soaps here are marked with their owners’ name.

Sohel Rana, another bath house manager, inherited his father's business. "These places have been here since my birth. My father ran this before me, and now it's my responsibility," he explains. Under his management, the facilities offer additional facilities such as unlimited shampoo, mustard oil for bathing, and tooth powder for brushing — free of charge.

For Jomsed Ali, a rickshaw puller from Barishal who has lived in Dhaka for over 20 years, these facilities are indispensable. 

"I live in a slum, and we don't have proper bathrooms. But for two decades, I've relied on these. If they weren't here, we'd be in real trouble," he says, scrubbing his skin before stepping aside for the next bather.

Kamran Hossen, a day labourer, echoed this sentiment. "After a day of hard work, taking a bath is necessary. The work I do and the money I earn don't allow me to live in a house with a proper bathroom. These are our only hope." 

Some people who bathe here regularly bring their own supplies, leaving their soaps and scrubs in designated areas, each marked with their name, under the manager's care. The same applies to scrubbers.

"I live in a slum, and we don't have proper bathrooms. But for two decades, I've relied on these. If they weren't here, we'd be in real trouble."

Jomsed Ali, rickshaw puller

Across Karwan Bazar, over 10,000 people rely on these services daily. "More than 300 people bathe in my place alone every day," says bath house manager Shah Alam. 

"The demand never stops. These bath houses are really an important part of the daily lives of the community," he adds. They serve not only slum dwellers, workers, and rickshaw pullers but also travelers and people in emergency situations who need a place to clean themselves.

After a long day of labour, another pressing concern for Karwan Bazar's workers is affordable food. With the high cost of living in Dhaka, restaurants are a luxury most cannot afford. Instead, they turn to the food vans scattered across the marketplace.

Masud Sheikh operates one such food van, serving steaming plates of rice, lentils and mashed potato for just Tk20. "Most of my customers are day labourers and rickshaw pullers. I sell more than 200 plates every day," he says, stirring a massive pot of lentil.

These food vans are the lifeline of Dhaka's working class. 

Mujib Al Ansary, a rickshaw puller, has been eating from these food vans for seven years. "I can't afford restaurants. But I've been having this meal for years and never had health issues," he insists.

Himel Hasan, another vendor, explains that a significant portion of his customers are fixed. "Landlords or site owners hire workers for construction or loading work. They contact me and tell me how many workers they have. Then, they send them to my van. They eat here, and every three days, the boss settles the bill," he says.

Aftab Uddin, a day labourer, confirms this arrangement. 

With the high cost of living in Dhaka, restaurants are a luxury most cannot afford. Instead, they turn to the food vans scattered across the marketplace.

The food vans also cater to workers in a variety of industries; hawkers like Golam Mowla, who spends long hours selling goods in the market, find the food vans to be a reliable source of lunch.

"I have breakfast and dinner at home, but when lunchtime comes, I always head here. It's quick, it's filling, and it's affordable," he says.

Arif Hossain, a truck driver, recalls how the vans have been a source of comfort during the toughest moments in his life. 

"When I was going through a tough time last year, I was in a really bad place, financially and emotionally. But I still came to these food vans for my meals. The vendors here didn't judge me; they just gave me food, and that small act of kindness helped me get through the day. It wasn't just the food; it was the care they showed. And it made all the difference," he recounts.

For many of these workers, food vans are not just a source of sustenance; they are a way of life, a place to share stories with fellow blue collar workers, take a brief break from their exhausting jobs, and maintain the brotherhood that exists among the working class in Dhaka.