The tale of ‘Burigangar chaangariwalas’

Have you ever heard of Mumbai's dabbawalas? If not, let us introduce you to them. They are the people who deliver dabbas (lunch boxes) from one end of the city to the other. In bustling Mumbai, these dabbawalas are familiar faces who provide busy people with home-cooked meals.

A similar system can be found at Dhaka's Sowari Ghat, though the people involved are called "Burigangar Chaangariwala". 

Intrigued, we decided to witness this firsthand. It was around 10:20 in the morning, and the scorching summer sun was beating down. The heat was so intense that one could hardly breathe after a couple of minutes.

The heat at Sowari Ghat felt even more intense, with people frantically seeking shade. The sky was a vibrant blue, scattered with fluffy white clouds — a striking yet harsh contrast.

A gentle breeze occasionally offered some relief from the heat. Despite the sweltering conditions, the people at Sowari Ghat were hard at work. The ghat was lined with rows of boats, and tired boatmen waited for passengers.

Their shirts were soaked with sweat, as though they had just taken a dip in the river. Some cooled themselves by pouring water over their heads. 

Still, many people were crossing the river. To escape the sun, someone was boarding a boat with an umbrella. A small tea stall was located a few minutes away from the ghat. It was a simple wooden structure that could barely seat three or four people.

We quickly went over and sat down. The shade felt so peaceful. The tea stall was situated in such a way that we had a perfect view of the entire river. We relaxed, sipping our tea and waited about an hour for the chaangariwalas.

At 12:05 pm, two trawlers docked at the ghat. And there they were! Each of them was carrying a large, heavy tray with 40-50 bowls on it. They carefully carried these trays off the trawlers and onto the ghat. There were about 10-15 of them. We followed them.

As soon as they got off, they started rushing, not a moment to spare. Having brought the food parcels from the other side of the river, they immediately got to work. The bowls were brought from the ghat to the shore, neatly arranged, and then loaded onto vans.

Next, they tied the bowls securely with ropes, making sure they were fastened tightly. There was no room for error. After that, the vans carrying the food, along with the chaangariwalas, sped off to their destinations. 

Year after year, they have been engaged in this food delivery work. They carry the food prepared by the wives of people working across the river. In essence, their sole job is to establish a connection between home food and the workplace.

They perform the task of delivering the correct food bowl to the correct place with utmost dedication. At the same time, the importance of time is immense to them. That is why they can be seen at Sowari Ghat from as early as 12 noon onwards.

There are some in this profession who have been doing it for over 40 years. Md Rafik of Jinjira is one of them. Now in his 60s and the father of five children, the harsh realities of life forced him into work during his adolescence.

In the beginning, he carried goods before transitioning to carrying food bowls. He has been doing this work for over 35 years. Each morning, he goes from house to house to collect the food bowls, then transports them across the river by boat. After people finish eating, he collects the bowls again and delivers them to their respective locations. His day follows this routine from morning to evening.

The income he earns from this work is enough to support his household comfortably, which is why he has stayed in this profession for so long. Now, his 17-year-old son has also joined him, learning the work alongside him.

"From every house, I collect several food bowls, which bring me Tk15,000 to Tk20,000 at the end of the month, and sometimes even more," said Rafik.

This food comes from various areas across the Buriganga River. Primarily, the wives of businessmen from Chawkbazar, Islampur, Babubazar, Mitford Fort, Nawab Bari, and Shakhari Bazar prepare the meals. The chaangariwalas then deliver the food directly to their hands. Their work typically begins around 8am or 9am.

Initially, they go around collecting food-filled bowls from house to house. Each chaangariwala has a specific area; one chaangariwala usually collects 40-50 bowls.

We spoke to Halima Khatun about this. She lives in Keraniganj. This woman, over 50 years old, used to work alone for 15 years; now her 17-year-old son Rafi is also involved in the work.

Rafi carries the food bowls on his head. When asked where the food comes from, Halima replied, "We bring it from Jaullapara, Narkelbag, Barishur, Borhanibag, Tin Mosque, Mandail, and Gadabag. Both Hindus and Muslims provide the meals. We also receive tips. It's decided that if we get a larger share, we earn more tips, and on days when we receive less, our earnings are lower."

Seeing so many bowls on a giant tray, we were curious about how they identify which bowl belongs to whom. Halima smiled and replied, "Many people write their names on the bowls or make marks. Even if they don't do that, we know. We can tell which bowl goes to which place. When you work in a location for a long time, you become familiar with it."

The destination of the handcart is also determined in advance.

"I see them every day. I have been doing business here for 20-22 years. Every day they come, load the goods onto the van, deliver them to different places, and then take them back. Only on Fridays is this work closed for them. This is also a very old profession," says local fruit seller Mosaddek Alam.

Many of the chaangariwalas have been in this profession for generations, such as Shafikul Alam's father, who, due to old age, cannot work anymore. So, Shafikul is now doing this job instead. He has been in this profession for 10 years. He finds this work more comfortable and profitable than other jobs.

"But this work requires timely completion. All the food must be delivered to the right places before lunch hour. After they finish eating, we have to collect the bowls again. After that, we have to deliver them all back to their homes," he said. 

"It's a responsible job, but I also receive good tips. I don't mind the hard work because of this," Shafikul added.

However, there are obstacles in this profession. If there is any disruption in business or if shops of the businessmen are closed, the chaangariwalas have no work. Some mentioned the difficult times during the Covid-19 pandemic. 

Md Rafik said, "If the shops are closed for any reason, we can't continue. We can't earn. If they aren't at work, whom would we send the food to?"

While this profession began over 100 years ago in India, the exact time when the Buriganga chaangariwalas started their work is unknown. Some say it has been around for 50 years, while others believe it dates back 60 to 70 years. Some think they have been doing this work since businesses started to flourish on the other side of the river.