KAVVA: The missing piece in the Bangali fusion puzzle

Tucked along Roads 30 and 31 in Block I of Bashundhara R/A — an area rapidly emerging as a food hub — KAVVA joins a strip that has transformed from a quiet residential corner into a stretch glowing with restaurant lights. 

What sets it apart is its refusal to let Bangali cuisine remain boxed in as "home cooking". Managed by Efanul Haque Efty and five partners, the restaurant consciously presents traditional Bangali flavours in a refined, contemporary setting — one that sits confidently alongside Chinese, Japanese or Western dining.

The idea grew from Efty's frustration while living in Bashundhara in early 2020. When craving a simple plate of rice and dal, his choices were limited to what he describes as low-standard eateries near Apollo Gate or Jamuna Gate, where hygiene, consistency and comfort were uncertain. 

"Not everyone can go there and eat," he says. "They don't maintain a standard."

That frustration followed him home. "If I tell my wife, 'Let's go out to eat,' she'll ask where," Efty says. "It's always Chinese, Korean, Japanese. If I say Bangali, she'll say, 'What's the point? It can be cooked at home." 

He recognised the gap. KAVVA was imagined as a place where families could dine comfortably and feel proud ordering Bangali food — where tradition felt refined rather than routine.

The result is a fusion-driven menu that keeps Bangali flavours intact while elevating their presentation. Dishes such as Kala Bhuna Spaghetti are designed to appeal to both locals and foreigners — "people who want traditional food, but not too spicy," as Efty puts it — while Butter Chicken Spaghetti and Labneh and Honey Bruschetta sit alongside Bangali staples. Even Loitta and Chips reworks a British classic with local loitta fish, signalling KAVVA's approach from the first bite.

The fusion extends beyond the plate. After internal debate and research, KAVVA embraced a dual identity as both eatery and café, challenging the notion that Bangali food cannot coexist with café culture. Guests can sit down for a full meal or linger over coffee, Thai milk tea, syrup-free mocktails such as Volcano Margarita and Lemorenge, or healthy shakes like Banana on a Date, without Bangali cuisine feeling out of place.

The interiors reinforce this vision. Hand-painted jamdani-inspired artwork and jute lighting fixtures underscore the restaurant's Bangali fusion identity, making the setting as considered as the menu.

Duck Bhuna and Chitroti

The chitroti is the kind of high-quality, visually appealing roti you expect from a high-end restaurant, and it pairs perfectly with the duck. The duck itself is richly spiced, unmistakably desi, and cooked to perfection — you don't have to go to war separating meat from bone. 

A subtle green note, from a few closely guarded ingredients, sets it apart from the usual duck bhuna you might have at home. For Efty, this slow-cooked duck belongs to winter, and it lives up to that promise.

Price: Duck Tk555, Chitroti Tk60 each

Kala Bhuna Spaghetti

This signature dish marries the slow-cooked, dark intensity of Chittagong's famed beef kala bhuna with Italian spaghetti. There is enough beef beneath the pasta to silence any complaints about portion size. The spaghetti itself is fully infused with kala bhuna flavour — some may not prefer it that way, but I found it works. 

For my tastebuds, it runs a bit spicy, so adjusting the heat when ordering is wise. From a kala bhuna standpoint, though, the flavour delivers exactly what you would expect.

Price: Tk695

Kolijar Tukra

Arguably the best singara I've had in Dhaka — at a truly eye-watering price. Five pieces for Tk375 feels steep, even by Bashundhara's upscale standards. That said, the quality is top-notch: each singara is packed with kolija and nothing else. Designed as a surprise starter, it delivers savoury liver filling inside a crisp, golden shell. It comes in two colours and looks every bit as tempting as it tastes.

Price: Tk375

Blue Monsoon

A refreshing choice from the crafted mocktail section, designed to complement the bold food. Blue Monsoon is essentially a lemon and litchi combination, using a market-available litchi slush blended with citrus. Simple, familiar and refreshing.

Price: Tk380

Thai Milk Tea (Hot)

Marketed as an authentic, warming speciality tea, it reflects KAVVA's cross-cultural ambitions. The vanilla flavour felt fairly ordinary, though the texture stood out — the thickness and taste remain consistent throughout the cup. At that price, I am not sure I would order it again. It tastes good, but hardly like tea. Still, as a one-off experience, it is worth trying for its uniqueness rather than its depth of flavour.

Price: Tk210