The rise of modest fashion and its growing market

As Eid-ul-Fitr draws near, young women across Bangladesh are busy picking out fabrics, lace, and sequins, rushing to their local tailors to get outfits made in the style of popular modest wear brands like Agha Noor, Bin Saeed, and Sadabahar. Among them is Tasmiah Binte Alam, who is negotiating with her tailor to make sure her dress is ready before the 25th of Ramadan.

"My dress will have long, wide sleeves and a loose fit—just like the ones Pakistani actresses wear in their TV dramas," Tasmiah says with excitement.

Social media is buzzing with videos showing how Pakistani-style modest dresses are made, with content creators shopping for fabrics and accessories, and then having them tailored to match current modest fashion trends. Online stores and shopping platforms are getting in on the action too, offering full-sleeved salwar kameez sets, hijabs, and long jackets for Eid preparations.

Urme Rashid, the owner of Glam by Urme, confirms that this trend is on the rise. "A lot of customers send us pictures of Pakistani actress Hania Amir wearing a specific lawn dress, asking if we have the same fabric or design. These dresses are traditionally loose-fitting with long, cylindrical sleeves that are now in high demand," she explains.

But modest fashion isn't just about Eid—it's become a daily style choice for many Bangladeshi women. On university campuses, female students often pair hijabs with fashionable burkhas, abayas, gowns, caftans, shrugs, tunics, aprons, and even salwar-kameez. Long shirts with loose pants and a hijab are especially popular during the summer. 

Vibrant colours, unique cuts, and interesting patterns are now key elements of modest attire.

The global growth of modest fashion

Modest fashion, also known as halal fashion, is now a thriving global industry that transcends cultural and national boundaries. It is defined as clothing that adheres to principles of modesty, which, according to Islamic guidelines, should be loose-fitting, non-transparent, and cover the arms, neckline, and hair.

This shift towards modest fashion is evident in shopping centres and marketplaces, where long-sleeved dresses with loose silhouettes and covered necklines dominate the racks.

A 2017 research paper published in the International Journal of Asian Social Science explored the reasons behind the increasing popularity of modest or Islamic fashion. 

Titled Growing Popularity of Muslim Attire: Faith or Fashion, the study found that as young Muslim women become more independent—pursuing higher education, gaining technological skills, and entering the workforce—they are balancing modern lifestyles with traditional values. By embracing modest fashion, they gain societal acceptance while maintaining their cultural and religious identity.

The economic boom of modest fashion

The rise of modest fashion isn't just a cultural shift; it's also a major economic driver. According to the State of the Global Islamic Economy (SGIE) Report 2023-24, the global Islamic economy has grown from a $1.62 trillion consumer spending market in 2012 to $2.29 trillion in 2022.

In 2022 alone, Muslim consumers spent $318 billion on apparel and footwear—a notable 8.4% increase from the previous year. By 2027, spending on Muslim fashion is expected to reach $428 billion.

Mainstream fashion brands worldwide are jumping on the modest fashion bandwagon, launching dedicated lines to meet the growing demand. For example:

• UK-based BooHoo launched its first modest fashion collection in 2022, collaborating with Graduate Fashion Week winner Sameera Mohmed.
• Turkish retailer LC Waikiki opened its first modest clothing store in Doha, Qatar.
• Australian online retailer The Iconic introduced "The Modest Edit," featuring brands like Twiice, Asiyam, and Yasmin Jay.
• Pakistani designer Sania Mastakiya debuted a modest fashion line called "Modest."
• UK retailer Next launched its own modest wear collection.
• European retailer Zalando announced plans to collaborate with brands that serve underrepresented groups, including modest fashion consumers.

Established modest fashion brands are also broadening their reach. Saudi-based Leem partnered with UK online marketplaces Zalando, Selfridges.com, and retailer Next, while UK-based brand Daska created an exclusive modest fashion range for retail-to-rental brand MyWardrobe HQ at Harrods.

Social media and the hijab debate

Social media has played a crucial role in spreading awareness about modest fashion, particularly in the face of global controversies surrounding the hijab. Many users actively speak out against laws restricting hijab-wearing women.

For example, the hijab ban was a central topic in the French presidential election. French lawmakers proposed a ban on hijabs and other religious symbols in sports competitions. 

The French Football Federation already prohibits women from wearing hijabs during official matches. Similarly, a ban on burkinis in public pools in Grenoble was upheld by the courts.

Elsewhere, Kosovo's Islamic community requested the removal of the hijab ban in high schools, while Nigeria's Supreme Court ruled in favour of allowing female Muslim students to wear hijabs in Lagos State government schools.

Modest fashion in fashion schools and global fashion weeks

The modest fashion movement is also making its way into fashion academia. The University of Georgia's Textiles, Merchandising, and Interiors department hosted an event titled Islamic Fashion and Anti-Fashion as part of its diversity in fashion series.

In the UK, fashion graduate Nadia Hadhrami's collection, Hands Off My Hijab, was showcased at York Fashion Week. Meanwhile, Central Saint Martins graduate Kazna Asker featured her modest fashion line, Watered by One Water, at the prestigious MA 2022 fashion show—the first time hijabs were included in the school's runway presentation.

Modest fashion brands are gaining visibility at major fashion weeks and dedicated showcases. The Modanisa London Fashion Week was co-hosted by the London Muslim Shopping Festival in 2022, while Modest Fashion Weeks organized by Think Fashion took place in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia, with a focus on Saudi Arabia's Vision 2030.

At the 13th International Economic Summit: Russia-Islamic World Kazan Summit 2022, Modest Fashion Day featured designers from Russia, Tatarstan, Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, and Indonesia, alongside expert panel discussions. The event continued at the Kazan Summit in 2023.

A trend that's here to stay

Studies show that clothing patterns influence individuals' sense of belonging and purchasing behaviour. The increasing involvement of society in fashion leads to higher demand for apparel. 

Previous research suggests that Islamic values shape Muslim consumer habits, supporting the rapid growth of the modest fashion industry.

Modest fashion is no longer just about religious identity—it has become a global movement, driven by economic forces, social media, and shifting cultural attitudes. 

With a booming market and growing inclusivity in mainstream fashion, modest wear is more than just a passing trend—it's a lasting transformation in the global fashion industry.