Dhaka-Delhi tensions ripple across Hili’s markets and livelihoods

Until recently, Shamsul Alam, the counter master for Hanif Paribahan at Hili, hardly had time to breathe. Every day, 14 full-capacity buses would set off for Dhaka, packed with Bangladeshi and Indian passengers alike. 

"We couldn't manage with 14 buses, even if we tried," he said. "Now? We run maybe four or five, and those aren't even half full. Seven or eight passengers, maximum. We can't even cover fuel costs."

Hanif Paribahan's woes are not an isolated case, but rather a symptom of a larger transformation taking place in Hili — a once-thriving border town that now feels like a shell of its former self.

Hili, located in the Hakimpur upazila of Dinajpur, the north-western corner of Bangladesh, shares a border with the Indian district of South Dinajpur in West Bengal. The town has long served as one of the busiest land ports in the country, both in terms of trade and people-to-people movement.

The Hili Land Port, officially opened in 1997 but with trade roots stretching back to before Partition, has grown into a cornerstone of bilateral commerce. A huge variety of goods — rice, wheat, onions, fruits, chemicals, stone and more — have passed through the port each year, generating substantial revenue and sustaining thousands of livelihoods.

Yet beyond the figures, Hili has always had something more — an identity shaped by exchange, mobility and human connection. The border market adjacent to the port, known as the Bangla Hili border market, used to be a riot of colour and sound, overflowing with people buying Indian sharis, cosmetics, electronics, spices and chocolates. It was also a popular point for travellers and tourists keen to experience the seamless blend of two cultures. The market's reputation drew people from across the country, eager to buy authentic Indian products at lower prices.

That entire ecosystem began to unravel after 5 August.

A market in decline

Security has since become visibly tighter. Entry to the border area is now restricted to those with urgent needs or proper documentation, particularly visa-holders. The days of casual visitors and cross-border foot traffic are gone. Shops, once overflowing with Indian goods and eager customers, now stand half-empty. Vendors wait idly. The once-frenzied marketplace resembles a quiet street.

Mahadi Hasan has been running his shop in Hili's market for 12 years. Known for selling Indian cosmetics, soaps, and toiletries, he has seen the town in its prime. "Earlier, I used to sell Tk20,000 to Tk25,000 worth of goods in a single day," he said. 

"Now, I struggle to make even 2,000." He gestured to the near-empty corridor in front of his shop. "You and I can talk here now. That would've been impossible before. There was no space to stand."

Previously, retailers and wholesalers from across Bangladesh would flock to Hili to stock up on Indian goods. Now, the footfall is minimal, and the impact is being felt across the board.

In the market's famed Indian fabric section, traders are simply opening their shutters and waiting. "Today is Thursday — market day — and look around," said Rafiqul Islam, who sells Indian clothes. "This used to be one of the busiest days of the week. Now you can count the customers on your fingers."

Abul Hasnat, another trader at the border bazar area, said, "Those of us who run businesses in this area have no other choice. As long as this situation persists, we will have to worry about our livelihoods. We long for an end to this impasse. We wish to break free from this stalemate." 

Blocked trade routes give birth to new strategies

The supply of goods has also been hit hard. Indian items used to come into Hili through two channels. One was formal import — where taxes and duties were paid through proper documentation. 

The other was informal, but common: personal luggage. Travellers crossing the border would carry items for traders or acquaintances, who would then sell them at lower prices than official imported goods.

Alamgir Hossain, a trader, explained the economics, "Let's say I want to bring shampoo. If I formally import a 650ml bottle, I would sell it at Tk1,350–1,400. But the same shampoo, if brought informally in someone's luggage, might be 1,000ml and still retail for only Tk1,200. It makes a big difference."

This grey area has long helped traders meet consumer demand at competitive prices. But now, with restricted access, even luggage-based imports have dwindled. And with customers few and far between, even local residents are beginning to sense the town's economic slide.

In response, traders are adapting. Some are swapping out Indian stock for Bangladeshi goods to serve local needs. "We can't survive with imported goods," said Hasib Talukdar, a shoe shop owner. "That's why we're now selling local products — anything to keep the shop open."

Still, even in this decline, a few see silver linings. One trader, requesting anonymity, pointed out that with the security clampdown, some of the more illicit activities common to border regions have also disappeared. 

"Earlier, smugglers used to sneak in drugs hidden among legitimate products," he said. "That's not happening now. Security is so tight, only the most desperate would try it. It's a better environment, in that sense."

Tourism fades, tensions rise

The heightened security presence is unmistakable. The Hili border is flanked by the Dhaka–Panchagarh railway line. Previously, locals would casually walk along the tracks or congregate nearby. Now, even stepping on the line can invite scolding from border guards. 

On both sides, the presence of Border Guard Bangladesh (BGB) and India's Border Security Force (BSF) has increased significantly.

Even tourism has taken a hit.

Hili Zero Point — where travellers would stand between the two countries, marveling at cultural contrasts and the ease of interaction — was once a magnet for curious visitors. 

Nearby, the Kantajir Temple and the Hili Rajbari on the Bangladeshi side, and the Maa Kali Temple on the Indian side, added to the destination's appeal. But with border passes suspended and visas harder to obtain or use, the area no longer buzzes with selfie-taking tourists or cross-cultural explorers.

The broader political backdrop is impossible to ignore. Locals believe the cooling of relations between Dhaka and Delhi has had a direct impact on life at the border. Where there was once warmth and movement, there is now caution and pause. The future looks uncertain.

Still, there is resilience. Golap Shah, a senior figure in the Hili market, sat quietly outside his shop and reflected. "This market used to be a dream — so full of life," he said. "I can't even remember the last time it felt like that. But we have no choice but to wait. The government is doing some good work. Maybe if the changes are for the country's benefit, we'll just have to accept that."