Layali: One night in Arabia

After stepping through the doors of Layali, one might be forgiven for thinking they have somehow gotten themselves into an underground cavern. The Gulshan behind you seems to disappear to make way for the landscape in front of you. 

The moodily lit, cavernous interior is reminiscent of the caves the Bedouins of Arabia sought refuge in after a hard day's night — the nights the restaurant incidentally owes its very name to.

As your eyes settle in, the next sense to awaken is smell, as the aroma of food being cooked over wood fire hits your nostrils. It is an ancient smell — primal, even — and it sets the tone for everything that follows.

A very new addition to Dhaka's gastronomy scene, Layali has already garnered quite the reputation for serving fairly authentic renditions of Middle Eastern cuisine. What piqued our interest, however, was the emphasis on cuisine from the Levant — particularly Palestine. 

It would not be an overstatement to say the Bangladeshis, as a people, carry a deep solidarity for the Palestinian people. Sadly, the opportunity to truly engage with their culture — to sit at their table, so to speak — rarely presents itself. 

As foodies who firmly believe you can never truly understand a culture without trying their food, we jumped at the chance. And so here we are.

A conversation with our server and the kitchen staff revealed that the restaurant owes its authenticity in no small part to its head chef, who spent the better part of two decades working in Omani kitchens. As we settled into our cushioned chairs, we gave the menu a thorough going over, and we were ready.

Sfeeha

The Sfeeha announced itself with confidence — golden, layered pastry giving way to a generously spiced, earthy beef filling that bore the hallmarks of a kitchen that genuinely understands its dough. 

The yoghurt dip, however, leaned sharply sour, testing the patience of our palates.

Mercifully, a scattering of pomegranate seeds across the plate offered a jewel-toned reprieve, their sweetness pulling things just enough back into balance — a thoughtful touch, even if the dip itself warrants a rethink.

Price: Tk850

Chicken Mishkaki

The boneless chicken thighs arrived with a caramelised exterior that only open-fire cookery produces, tender within and accompanied by a plate of roasted tomato, charred bell peppers, and the irresistible batata harra — those crisp, lemony potatoes tossed in warm spices that we suspect many tables will quietly fight over. A creamy slaw provided welcome relief. 

Our only note: a slightly assertive spice note surfaced mid-bite, suggesting the marinade needed a little more time to fully integrate. The foundations here are excellent; this dish is a touch of patience away from being very good indeed.

Price: Tk900

Lamb Kafta

Dark, fragrant, and bolstered by sumac-stained onions, exemplary garlic toum, and bracing house pickles, the Lamb Kafta had much going for it. The spicing was resonant and the supporting cast admirably assembled.

The kafta itself, however, was a touch dry — enough to nudge one's attention away from an otherwise commendable plate. It is the sort of inconsistency that likely varies between services, and the bones of an excellent dish are clearly present. We would order it again and back ourselves to catch it on a better night.

Price: Tk1,200

Spiced Fries

We ordered the Spiced Fries partly out of necessity — the pita with our mains proved no match for the generosity of the meat portions — and partly because a restaurant's fries are a quiet but reliable marker of its kitchen's character. These passed with ease.

Crisp, golden and dusted in a Middle Eastern spice blend that elevated them well beyond the ordinary: if this were a cake, those spices would be the icing.

Price: Tk400

Saudi Champagne

In the Dhaka heat, the beverages carry a heavier burden than usual. The Saudi Champagne rose to the occasion admirably — apple juice and citrus, lifted with fresh mint and finished with sparkling water.

The fruits were evidently fresh, the mint assertive without aggression, and the bubbles lent a lively texture that made it genuinely refreshing. The sort of drink one orders once, then keeps ordering without quite noticing.

Price: Tk500

Tahini Blondie

We confess to a moment of hesitation before ordering — tahini in a blondie felt, on paper, like an uneasy alliance. It was a risk that paid off handsomely. The maple butter blondie was soft and dense, providing the ideal canvas for a tahini gelato that was nutty, creamy, and just bitter enough to keep things interesting.

The date and sesame brittle scattered on top added caramel crunch and a whisper of the souk that anchored the whole thing back to its origins. A lovely dessert — and one that understood both of its traditions well enough to honour them at once.

Price: Tk680

The Verdict

Layali is not a perfect restaurant — few are, and fewer still on their first outing. There are edges to be smoothed, balances to be recalibrated, and the odd minor inconsistency to be ironed out.

But what it offers, at its best, is something genuinely valuable: a sincere, skilled, and occasionally beautiful window into a cuisine that deserves far more attention in this city.