A grand gastronomical ode

Progressive Bangladeshi Cuisine! Pause for a moment to grasp the essence of this concept. 

For me, an avid food lover and a dedicated connoisseur of diverse cuisines, it signifies an innovative reimagination of our beloved dishes. It's about shedding fresh light on the traditional delicacies that grace our tables, whether during daily meals or special gatherings. It's an expedition to delve into the interplay of flavours, evoking nostalgia or evoking an insatiable desire for more.

Photo: Noor A Alam

Intriguingly, this journey hit a new milestone in a captivating collaboration between the creative minds of Arpon Changma and Rashedul Hasan. Arpon is an up-and-coming chef in Dhaka who owns BBQ Express while Rashed, who is originally from Bangladesh, is an established name in Australia after getting into the top 24 in Masterchef Australia 2017. The collaborative event took place on 19th and 20th August at Cafe Cero in Gulshan, Dhaka. 

Their joint endeavour aims to concoct an avant-garde menu that ingeniously intertwines the likes of kamranga (star apple) with squid and unveils the harmonious marriage of jaam ( black plum) granita with chocolate. 

This culinary adventure showcases their dedication to pushing limits, blending ingredients in unprecedented harmony, and delivering an artistic culinary journey. 

They presented a 10-course menu priced at 10,000 BDT. Over two days, a total of 60 enjoyed the dining experience, accompanied by musical performances.

From a consumerist point of view, such audacious ventures raise questions about the viability of introducing such a groundbreaking dining experience in a city often captivated by conventional trends. The price point further prompts contemplation, yet for Arpon and Rashed – visionary chefs intent on elevating Bangladeshi cuisine globally – this challenge is an opportunity to carve a transformation.

Photo: Antar Chakma

"The local culinary landscape has grown stagnant, devoid of innovation or a distinct identity," reflects Rashed, igniting a conversation that delves into their pioneering mission. For Arpon this marks yet another homage to his origins. Another captivating journey. Another stroll down memory lane. Similarly, Rashed's dishes evoke smoky nuances reminiscent of his grandmother's cooking on a clay stove in Pabna. 

Their culinary finesse has garnered widespread acclaim, setting the stage for their debut collaboration to captivate the epicurean community.

Months of meticulous deliberation culminated in an intricate tapestry of flavours. Their audacity in infusing squid with kamranga broth showcased their creativity. The kamranga, adored for its tangy flavour when consumed raw with salt and chilli, underwent a transformative journey.

Arpon articulates their approach succinctly: "Preserving ingredient authenticity and fostering innovation are paramount." 

Photo: Antar Chakma

Rashed echoes this sentiment, reiterating his aspiration to place Bangladeshi cuisine firmly on the global culinary map. His upcoming venture, Ogni restaurant in Sydney, Australia, in collaboration with MasterChef Australia alumnus Sarah Tiong, embodies this vision. The eatery promises to celebrate diverse cuisines spanning from Taiwan to Afghanistan while spotlighting his native culinary heritage.

Photo: Antar Chakma

Rashed's Instagram followers have witnessed his flair for curating local dishes with a modern twist. His culinary prowess shines whether he's transforming leftover meat into delectable bhat bhaji or infusing Korean bulgogi with the smoky essence of fried okra. 

This fervour guided the creation of the extraordinary dessert, Jaam chocolate. Turning Jaam, or black plum, into a granita paired with chocolate showcased Rashed's dedication to vision and creativity. 

Engaging in conversations with several attendees of the dinner, I uncovered how the event became a revelatory moment for numerous food enthusiasts. Lazina Mona, a discerning palate and former restaurateur, found delight in Arpon's hebang fish and the memorable dessert by Rashed. She enthusiastically remarked, "This innovative twist sparks hope that our local ingredients possess untapped potential to captivate the global gastronome."

Tanjeem Khan, a proprietor of Cafe Cero, attested to the collaboration's resounding success. He shared plans to shape their future menu offerings inspired by this triumph. Seeking to transcend the confines of a traditional café, they aspire to curate dynamic collaborations – uniting chefs, artists, and creative minds – to curate unforgettable fine dining experiences.

Photo: Antar Chakma

The pop-up restaurant experience was further elevated by a musical performance by the Imran Ahmed Band, renowned for their performance in Coke Studio. This blend of culinary and artistic brilliance is something you don't see often in Dhaka's food scene. 

One lingering question that inevitably arises after attending an event of this nature is how to ensure the longevity and expansion of such impactful initiatives. Amidst a generation engrossed in savouring biryanis and burgers, the challenge emerges: how can we captivate the interest of Millennials and Gen Z in delving deeper into their local heritage, culture, and cuisine? How do we ignite their participation in these dialogues? 

The answer lies in fostering a proliferation of such exceptional endeavours, catalysing a movement where an increasing number of chefs and culinary artisans step forward to showcase the enchanting alchemy achievable with even the most rudimentary ingredients.

We must not forget that this vision extends beyond cuisine, aspiring to create a consistent platform where prawn malaikari shares the spotlight with lasagna, and where the rustic allure of earthy oaky truffle intertwines with the rich flavours of mezbani gosht. 

Amidst this culinary journey, the revival of cherished narratives and memories intertwined with these extraordinary dishes adds another layer of significance, celebrating the essence of our formative years.