Seychelles: A slice of paradise and reflection on life
Seychelles, a visa-free destination for Bangladeshis, is an archipelago of islands in the Indian Ocean and the smallest country in Africa. It is full of serene beaches, tranquil waters and idyllic sceneries, making it a paradise for nature lovers
Misfortune might sometimes be a precursor to something even better. In January 2023, we planned a trip to the Sahara in Algeria. The country had just initiated a new visa-on-arrival service if we were to go to the Sahara region in the south—prior approval was required from the authorities after applying through a travel agent.
Ten days before the trip, the Algerian authorities informed us that they wouldn't give approval in advance but that we could apply on arrival. However, Air Algerie wouldn't let us board without prior approval! Stuck in a tricky situation, we quickly had to make alternative travel plans.
Visa-free destinations for Bangladeshis are at a premium. It was then that we made the plan to go to Seychelles and add in a 48-hour transit in Kenya too. Both had an online visa application that was relatively easy.
I had been to Kenya once before, but I loved it so much that I went again. After exploring some beautiful safaris, watching majestic elephants, feeding giraffes, and catching a glimpse of Kilimanjaro just over the border in Tanzania, we boarded our flight to Seychelles.
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Seychelles is a popular destination among tourists, but despite its easy visa process, not many Bangladeshis make the journey to this stunning archipelago. There are reasons for this—it's incredibly expensive.
As an island nation, most goods are imported, which drives prices up significantly.
A nation of islands and a unique history
The Seychelles, comprising 115 islands, lies in the Indian Ocean, off the eastern coast of Africa. Its population is a mere 100,000, yet its cultural and historical significance is vast.
The islands were uninhabited until French settlers arrived in the 18th century. The French brought enslaved Africans to work on plantations, and when Seychelles passed into British hands in 1814, slavery was abolished.
Many Indians came to work on the islands on the indentured servitude contracts with the British. The resulting Creole culture reflects a blend of African, French, Indian and British influences, creating a unique identity that thrives to this day.
This late settlement also means that this is one of the few Indian Ocean island nations that is not majority Muslim. Along the coast of East Africa, the majority of island nations were settled in or conquered by Arabs or Muslim traders during the height of the Islamic empires.
Thus, Zanzibar, the Comoros Islands, Maldives, Lakshadweep are all majority Muslim while Mauritius retains a significant Muslim population too.
Seychelles was never settled on until the French arrived and brought slaves from the African continent, thus becoming a largely mixed culture with Christianity being the dominant religion. Due to the arrival of Indian workers, Hinduism has a big foothold in the country as well.
A small but flourishing Muslim community also exists on the Islands. In the capital, Victoria, a big mosque lies only a few hundred metres from the largest Hindu temple and the city church.
Post-independence, in 1976, Seychelles became a republic and has since focused on tourism and fishing as its primary industries. The country boasts a stable government and remains politically neutral, making it one of the most peaceful nations in Africa. The Seychelles economy, however, remains fragile, reliant on high-end tourism and fishing exports.
Arrival and first impressions
As we landed at Seychelles International Airport on Mahé, the largest island, the smooth immigration process set a positive tone. The officers asked to verify my hotel booking and outbound flight but were polite throughout.
It was my 25th African country and 109th overall, a milestone that felt special in such a breathtaking location.
Our base was in Beau Vallon, a charming coastal area with long stretches of golden sand, clear blue waters, and a relaxed vibe. Beau Vallon is known for its water sports, food stalls, and laid-back ambience, making it the perfect introduction to Seychelles.
The road from the airport towards Beau Vallon goes through the capital Victoria - a charming little town which would not be anything more than a village in Bangladesh due to how few people live on it!
A culture of food and value
While Seychelles is synonymous with luxury and five-star resorts, we mostly dined at food carts, where the local Creole dishes are authentic, flavourful and reasonably priced. Fresh fish, curries and tropical fruits were abundant.
Occasionally, we treated ourselves to a restaurant meal, but the food carts were our go-to option for the local charm.
Interestingly, Seychelles has a significant Bangladeshi community, about 5,000 people strong, working primarily in the tourism sector. We met a Bangladeshi shopkeeper who shared how much he enjoyed working there. "We earn well and are treated kindly," he said, a sentiment echoed by other Bangladeshi workers we encountered.
For a country that only has 100,000 people, 5000 Bangladeshis was a lot!
Day trip to Praslin and La Digue
One of the highlights of the trip was a day excursion to Praslin and La Digue, two of Seychelles' most iconic islands.
On Praslin, we visited Anse Lazio, which is often ranked among the most beautiful beaches in the world. Its powdery white sand, framed by granite boulders and lush greenery, was mesmerising. We also ventured into the Vallée de Mai, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, to see the legendary coco de mer, a palm with the largest and most suggestive seed in the plant kingdom. The dense forest felt primordial, and learning about the unique ecosystem made the visit even more enriching.
At La Digue, after a leisurely lunch, we explored Anse Source d'Argent, the most photographed beach on Earth. Its smooth granite boulders, turquoise waters, and shallow lagoons make it an otherworldly spectacle.
The beach's surreal beauty attracts photographers and travellers worldwide, and it is easy to see why it has earned such fame. However, that does come with its problems - as inconsiderate influencers try to get their perfect shots and videos no matter how much they inconvenience other people.
Reflections in paradise
The trip wasn't without its sombre moments. During our time in Seychelles, I received the news of my uncle's passing. Grieving on the road is a strange, isolating experience. The beauty around me felt almost mocking in its serenity, yet it also offered a sense of solace.
Sitting on the beach at Beau Vallon, watching the waves crash rhythmically, reminded me of life's fleeting nature.
Seychelles, with its idyllic scenery, provided space for reflection. In its natural beauty, I found comfort, and in its people's kindness, a reminder of life's enduring connections. From the bustling market in Victoria, the capital, to the tranquil waters of Anse Lazio, every moment felt like a privilege. It's a place that inspires awe and introspection, a reminder of the planet's beauty and the importance of preserving it.
As I left the island, watching its emerald-green peaks fade into the horizon, I felt grateful for the opportunity to visit such a magnificent corner of the world. Seychelles, my 25th African country, will always hold a special place in my heart—not just for its physical beauty but for the lessons it offers about life, loss and the enduring power of nature.
The price of paradise
Seychelles is undeniably expensive. From accommodation to transportation, the cost of living is among the highest in the world. Yet, it's worth every penny for the breathtaking vistas, pristine beaches and unique experiences.
Budget travellers can still enjoy the islands by opting for local guesthouses, food carts and public transport.
The country's economy relies heavily on tourism, but climate change threatens its fragile ecosystem. Rising sea levels and coral bleaching pose significant risks to its beaches and marine life.
