Market shrinks for Chattogram’s traditional 'Bangla Semai'

Once a staple of Eid celebrations and other festivals in Chattogram, the city's traditional, handmade Bangla Semai (vermicelli) is finding itself in a tight spot, with many machine-made brands dominating the market.

Despite its brownish appearance, it has long been known as "Lal Semai" and was widely popular not only in Chattogram but across various parts of the country.

Two decades ago, around 40 small and large factories in the city's Chaktai and Rajakhali areas, under Bakalia police station, produced this traditional delicacy using age-old methods. The vermicelli was sold loose in bamboo baskets, preserving its rustic charm.

However, with the rise of machine-made, and packaged vermicelli of different brands, demand for the traditional variety has steadily declined.

In the past decade alone, the production of Lal Semai has dropped by almost 80%. Many factories have shut down, and only 5 or 6 remain operational.

Factory owners fear that in just a few years, these too may disappear, leading to the complete extinction of Chattogram's traditional vermicelli.

Falling demand

During a recent visit to the factories in Chaktai and Rajakhali, workers were seen hanging strands of vermicelli on bamboo poles under the open sky for drying. The process also involves kneading dough, baking it over fire, drying it thoroughly in the sun, and then frying it in oil. However, factory conditions raise serious hygiene concerns.

The presence of dust, dirt, and unsanitary surroundings has contributed to the decline in demand, as consumers increasingly prefer neatly packaged, factory-made vermicelli.

Due to falling demand for loose vermicelli, some manufacturers have shifted to producing loose Lachcha Semai, but they struggle to compete with branded packaged varieties.

Factory owners expressed their concerns over declining demand.

"Previously, we used to receive orders from northern districts of Bangladesh. Even the surrounding districts of Chattogram had a significant market. But now, apart from a few upazilas, there is hardly any demand for Lal Semai," said factory owner Md Emran.

Anup Acharjee, a vermicelli trader in Khatungonj, said, "We used to sell 30-40 maunds of vermicelli a day, but now it is difficult to sell the same quantity in a month. Consumers now prefer packaged vermicelli from branded companies."

"In Chaktai and Rajakhali, well-known brands such as Amrin Semai, Sonar Madina Semai, Zamzam Semai, Angur Brand, Harin Brand, Bhai Bhai Brand, KB Brand, and Dui Am once dominated the market. But most have shut down due to competition. Two decades ago, there were more than 40 factories, but now only a few remain operational," Anup added.

Factory owners warn of looming shutdowns amid rising cost

Currently, a 35-kg basket of loose vermicelli costs between Tk1,800 and Tk1,850, but production has drastically reduced. Factories that once produced 100 maunds per day now struggle to make just 15-20 maunds.

Additionally, rising flour prices have further increased production costs, making it even harder for businesses to survive.

Md Nazim Uddin, a factory owner in Rajakhali, said, "Our production has dropped significantly because the market is not what it used to be. Every year, more factories shut down. The cost of running a factory is too high, but the income is too low."

Another manufacturer, Md Mostafa, added, "Every year, production costs increase, but sales do not. Apart from Eid, there is barely any demand, so we have to keep our factories closed most of the year."

Another factory owner, Abdur Rahim, who inherited the business from his father, expressed his frustration, saying, "I have been in this business for years, but it is getting harder to continue. Flour prices are rising, yet our product prices remain the same. For most of the year, the factory stays closed, but we still have to pay rent. I do not think we will be able to survive much longer."

With the ongoing decline, business owners fear that soon, there may be no vermicelli factories left in Chaktai and Rajakhali.

If the trend continues, Chattogram's centuries-old tradition of making Lal Semai may vanish, replaced entirely by industrialised, branded alternatives.