Pizza Da Wali: A slice of Italy in Dhaka’s heart

"If you like the food, pay later!", a message imprinted on top of a pizza box – placed gently outside your door – says.

By now, the air in the doorway is already fragrant with the smell of the freshly baked pizza.

It's an offer you cannot refuse.

This is how the journey of the now famous Pizza Da Wali really took off – pizza you could purchase after eating, a deal never before heard of in Dhaka.

Named after its owner and head chef, Wali Ullah, who spent 15 years perfecting his culinary skills in Italy, the restaurant opened in 2019 upon his return to Bangladesh.

Wali recalls, "I started with a pizzeria in Baridhara DOHS before moving to Gulshan the following year."

He had high hopes for the endeavour. But the timing was unfortunate.

This was when the Covid-19 pandemic hit. Lockdowns followed and footfall dried up.

Wali was left with two options – innovate and persevere, or fold up and perish.

He chose the former.

To introduce his food, Wali took a creative approach.

"I'd leave authentic Italian dishes outside the gates of European embassies," he says.

This clever marketing drew attention, and, with dishes crafted from premium, imported Italian ingredients, Pizza Da Wali quickly gained popularity.

By the time the pandemic eased, Pizza Da Wali had found a following among the local Bangladeshi crowd too.

Now, amid soaring demand, Pizza Da Wali remains discreet.

Located in a cosy flat on the ground floor of a building in Gulshan, it has no signboard or address to guide you.

Surrounded by several foreign embassies, the clientele is primarily made up of expatriates, with over 250 Italians visiting regularly to indulge in the flavours of their homeland.

The restaurant's walls are adorned with photographs of notable guests, including famous chefs, ambassadors, politicians, poets, film stars, and even social media influencers.

Among them, you'll spot a picture of Prof Muhammad Yunus, now the chief adviser of the interim government, who visited with his family.

From Motijheel to Sicily

Wali's culinary journey began in 2000 when he worked for four months at a Chinese restaurant in Motijheel. After completing his postgraduate studies in Tongi College, he moved to Italy in search of work. 

In Italy, Wali worked in various restaurants across Sicily, immersing himself in all aspects of Italian cuisine, from cooking to cleaning. He fondly recalls a pivotal moment in 2008, when he worked at a restaurant that baked 1,200kg of bread and made 250 croissants daily. 

"It was there I learned how to make pasta from a 103-year-old Italian master," says Wali.

In 2014, Wali returned to Bangladesh for a vacation and noticed the increasing popularity of foreign cuisine, particularly fast food. He began to consider opening an Italian restaurant in Dhaka. 

However, following the 2016 terrorist attack at the Holey Artisan Bakery in Gulshan, he left for Italy once more, unsettled by the tragedy.

Finally, in 2019, Wali returned to Bangladesh to fulfil his dream of opening Pizza Da Wali.

Authentic flavours, authentic ingredients

One of the standout features of Pizza Da Wali is that 95% of its ingredients are directly imported from Italy. Wali personally travels to Italy every two months to source the finest ingredients, ensuring that locally sourced items meet the highest standards as well.

For instance, the basil used in their dishes is sourced from an organic farm in Mymensingh. Besides, Wali imports ten different types of cheese from Italy, with buffalo milk mozzarella being the most commonly used. 

"I have approximately Tk40 lakh worth of tomatoes and Tk10 lakh worth of olive oil in stock, all imported from Italy," says Wali. 

These ingredients are vital in almost every Italian dish, which is why they are kept in ample supply. Recently, he also imported a 120kg swordfish from Italy, which is now being served to guests.

For local fish, only those sourced from Cox's Bazar are used, and the restaurant strictly serves seafood in its dishes. Poultry and beef are sourced from reputable suppliers like Bengal Meat.

While pizza and pasta, quintessential Italian dishes, are available at most fast food outlets across Bangladesh, Wali points out, "It's only when you try the offerings at Pizza Da Wali that you realise how much our local versions of pizza and pasta are infused with Bengali flavours. There's no harm in that, of course, but food enthusiasts seeking authentic Italian cuisine know to head straight to us for that true taste."

Unique offerings

Pizza Da Wali is renowned for its wide array of authentic Italian dishes, including Arancini, Tiramisu, Fettuccine, and Neapolitan pizza. Wali also offers an impressive selection of pasta dishes, such as spaghetti, gnocchi, ravioli, and fettuccine, each prepared to order with the customer's preferred sauce.

The pizza menu features both classics, like Margherita, and inventive creations such as Capricciosa and Amatriciana. 

The restaurant's menu evolves regularly, based on the availability of fresh ingredients. Wali proudly claims he can prepare over 2,000 different Italian dishes. Prices are reasonable, with most items ranging from Tk600 to Tk1,200, and special offerings priced between Tk1,500 and Tk2,000.

At Pizza Da Wali, seating is limited to just 22 guests at a time, with meals prepared for exactly 44 people each day - two sittings, one at lunch and one at dinner. No more, no less.

"Maintaining food quality is my top priority," Wali explains. "Most of our guests are regulars who call ahead to make reservations. If the number exceeds 22, we politely decline additional customers."

Future plans

For Wali, Pizza Da Wali is not just a business but a true passion. Despite receiving lucrative job offers in Italy and opportunities to work at any five-star hotel in Bangladesh, he has chosen to serve authentic homemade Italian food to his fellow countrymen. 

"I am not interested in commercialising my restaurant," says Wali. "Which is why it lacks sign boards or heavy advertising. Instead, I rely on word of mouth, catering services, and live pizza events to promote my eatery." 

Recently, he even participated in the Dhaka Makers-3 event, where he introduced pasta made on a cheese wheel—a first in Bangladesh.

With the success of his restaurant, Wali has also opened an orphanage in Gazipur, named after his mother, where 77 orphaned children receive free education and housing. The facility was even inaugurated by the Italian Ambassador to Bangladesh Antonio Alessandro.

As Wali's conversation with The Business Standard was drawing to a close, two Italian guests walked in. Wali greeted them in Italian and led them to their seats. It turned out that they visit Pizza Da Wali nearly every day.

One told TBS, "Eating Wali's cooking feels like being in Italy, enjoying a meal made by my mother. The taste is truly from Italy – with love!"