PerfumologyBD: Where every scent tells a tale

A scent can do what words often cannot – change your mood, stir a memory, even make you fall in love. Perfume is invisible, but its power is undeniable. In this invisible art, Raihan Sultan has found his voice. 

"Like clothing, perfume is something you wear," said Raihan, a senior banker by profession, but his true passions lie in perfume and music.

"French fashion designer Coco Chanel once said that our look isn't complete until we've put on perfume. That's why you'll often hear perfume lovers say things like, 'It's really hot today, so I wore this perfume.' The use of the word 'wear' for perfume is actually quite recent – roughly as old as social media itself. And ever since it appeared, it's become wildly popular," he said.

Raihan is the founder and admin of PerfumologyBD, a YouTube channel, Facebook group, and page dedicated to all things scent. Online, he doesn't just review fragrances – he tells stories, helping thousands discover the perfumes that speak to them.

He went beyond reviews to launch RSR, a perfume brand for Bangladesh's climate. Its first fragrance, Karnaphuli, sold out 100 bottles in three days for Tk7,800 each. Later, Under the Sun, a fresh, floral-woody scent for summer, was introduced, with seasonal releases planned.

PerfumologyBD

The Facebook group PerfumologyBD, with nearly 10,000 members, is a lively hub for perfume enthusiasts. Daily discussions range from buying advice to detailed reviews, helping members navigate the vast world of fragrance. 

Recently, top contributor Dilara Khan posted from Malaysia asking, "Can I buy perfume from here?" Raihan advised against it, noting the high prices, and member Adnan Haque warned of possible fakes, adding that even authorised outlets could be expensive. Satisfied, Dilara dropped the topic, illustrating how the group combines guidance with practical experience.

The discussions are far from limited to buying tips. Arman Mursalin Amin recently reviewed Calvin Klein's "Be", a 1996 release by Swiss perfumer René Morgenthaler, detailing its top notes of lavender, bergamot, mint, juniper, and mandarin orange; middle notes of fresh grass, jasmine, peach, magnolia, and orchid; and base notes of musk, sandalwood, cedar, vanilla, and amber. 

Meanwhile, member Supriyo Saha Orko sparked a nostalgic conversation, asking, "What was the first perfume you bought with your own money?" The replies traced personal scent journeys, from Gucci Bloom and Armani Code to Hugo Boss Dark Blue, Nautica Boyz Blue, Dolce & Gabbana Pour Homme, Paco Rabanne Phantom, Afnan 9 PM, and Christian Dior Sauvage.

The group frequently mentions iconic global brands – Dunhill, Prada, Lacoste, Louis Vuitton, Givenchy, Ralph Lauren, Hermès, Bulgari, Amouage, Xerjoff – while in Bangladesh, familiar names like Wild Stone, Fogg, CK, Hugo Boss, and Dunhill dominate shelves. Each brand offers a unique sensory palette – floral, fruity, leathery, woody, creamy, coffee-inspired, or spicy. As Raihan notes, "Modern perfumes rarely carry a single note anymore."

He explains the craft behind fragrance: "The key ingredient is oil, which makes up 2-40% of the blend, derived from leather, flowers, sweet resins, or nut extracts. Top and base notes come from these oils. Historically, kings and nawabs had personal perfumers who ground, boiled, or burned ingredients to create the perfect scent. They were sometimes rewarded with necklaces. The fundamentals haven't changed; only packaging has. Today's bottles are so beautifully crafted that just looking at them feels like a luxury."

This group isn't just about buying or reviewing perfumes – it's a community that celebrates the stories, history, and artistry behind every scent.

The story of Acqua di Giò by Armani

A perfume is the creation of a perfumer, the mind behind its unique recipe. Brands usually buy these recipes, label them under their own name, and release them to the market. Experienced enthusiasts often check the perfumer's name before buying. Renowned perfumers include Dominique Ropion, Alberto Morillas, Jacques Cavallier, and Garline.

Raihan shared a story about Alberto Morillas: Giorgio Armani, vacationing by the sea, was inspired by a gust of wind carrying the salty scent of the ocean. He immediately contacted his friend Morillas, who flew over, breathed in the sea air, and understood the concept. Morillas then created Acqua di Giò, a water-inspired fragrance that challenged the idea that water has no scent. Today, aqua-based perfumes are common, yet Acqua di Giò remains the first choice for nearly 80% of male fragrance lovers.

Asked about gendered perfumes, Raihan explained, "It's mostly marketing. Scents popular with women in the 1970s are now worn by men, and vice versa. There's no inherent gender divide. Practicality matters: choose fragrances for the time, occasion, and season. Strong scents on hot summer days can be overwhelming, so lighter, fresher perfumes work best."

Perfume can be a conversation starter

So, what exactly does a perfume do? Essentially, it serves three main purposes: it eliminates bad odours, boosts self-confidence, and conveys respect or appreciation to others through scent.

These effects are most successful when the right perfume is used at the right time and place. Leather scents may feel overpowering during the day, while sweet or soft fragrances shine at parties. Students in crowded spaces benefit from light, fresh perfumes.

Perfume can also signal status or position. An office boss with a signature fragrance can positively influence their subordinates, inspiring admiration and praise. 

Perfume is often called a conversation starter – when words fail, a carefully chosen fragrance can open the door to interaction and leave a memorable impression.

The birthplace of modern perfume

The history of fragrance is ancient — from Egyptian pharaohs to Roman emperors and Emperor Akbar, few weren't captivated by scent. 

Raihan considers the French fashion house Guerlain the birthplace of modern perfume. Founded in Paris in 1828 by Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain, the house remained family-run until 1994, when it was sold to LVMH.

Guerlain first gained fame in 1853 by creating a perfume for Emperor Napoleon III and his wife Eugénie, earning the title of imperial perfumer. He later crafted fragrances for Queen Victoria and Queen Isabella of Spain. The craft passed through generations – from Guerlain to his children Aimé and Gabriel, and then to Aimé's nephew Jacques, all master perfumers.

Over time, the family produced iconic perfumes such as Jicky (1889), Mitsouko (1919), Shalimar (1925), and Vétiver. Jicky, considered a pioneer of modern perfume, blended lavender, vanilla, and tonka bean, and became popular with men as well as women. 

Mitsouko, named after a literary heroine, marked the end of World War I and gained popularity despite bottle shortages. Shalimar paid tribute to the legendary gardens built by Emperor Shah Jahan in Lahore, celebrated for their exquisite fragrances.

Raihan's world of perfume

Raihan's fascination with perfume began in childhood. Behind his family home in Chattogram, he would climb a small hill and breathe in the wild scents of flowers and fruits. His mother, also passionate about fragrance, kept him enthralled with news of new perfumes. As he grew, borrowing his elder brother's scents and earning schoolmates' praise deepened his fascination. Today, he owns nearly 1,500 perfumes, prized for their variety.

In Bangladesh, perfume often follows family tradition: fathers using Hugo Boss, sons adopting it; elder brothers with Wild Stone, younger brothers following suit. Yet the same fragrance can smell different on different people, depending on skin, lifestyle, and body chemistry, making experimentation important.

Raihan said, "Judging a perfume by its top note is misleading – it lasts only 10-15 minutes. The base note, lasting 6-8 hours, defines its true longevity. Many are disappointed when a perfume smells different at home than in the store, simply due to this misunderstanding. While most still use traditional attar, conscious perfume use is growing, thanks to easier access and availability."

Local Brand RSR

Raihan and his two friends, Saiful Azam Chowdhury and Rashed Chowdhury, launched a perfume brand, RSR, designed for Bangladesh's climate. Their first fragrance, Karnaphuli, draws inspiration from the lifeline of Chattogram – the Karnaphuli River. 

Raihan explained, "We are from Chattogram, we wanted to capture the city's spirit – the river, wood stacks, rice markets, livestock fairs, chicken farms, and the occasional wild white flowers. We asked perfumer Zakier Gafur to create a scent reflecting these elements. He developed over 10 combinations, tested by 25 men and women. Once approved, we launched Karnaphuli. The first 100 bottles sold out in three days at Tk7,800 each. It's ideal for winter, monsoon, and evening wear."

RSR later released Under the Sun, a fragrance made for Bangladesh's heat, humidity, and dust. Blending fresh, floral, and woody notes, it is long-lasting and ideal for summer. The brand plans to release perfumes for other seasons — monsoon, autumn, and winter — in the future.

Raihan also runs a YouTube channel called PerfumologyBD, featuring over 650 videos. Here, he explains the qualities of various perfumes and offers guidance to help customers find the right fragrance for themselves. Even those who aren't perfume enthusiasts can learn a lot. It's a fascinating world, always close yet long unexplored.