When fish bones become a last resort

If you have ever been to Jatrabari, chances are you too are familiar with its fish market, situated right at the centre of the neighbourhood. 

Here, some shopkeepers sell Pangas fish bones, which come with the head and tail intact, for as little as Tk20-30 per piece.

And it has become a lifeline for many families facing tough times due to rising prices.

For those who can't afford an entire Pangas, which can cost more than Tk150 per kilogram, the fish trimmed of most of its flesh comes as a respite.

Pangas, stripped almost to their bones, are available at the fish market in Jatrabari. Photo: Nayem Ali

The buyers of these fish bones usually cook a dish called Murighonto, an occasional delicacy slowly turning into an affordable daily meal.

According to the locals, this unique business was launched by Rajib Fish Supply, a wholesale dealer at the fish market.

I can't afford to buy the whole fish. That's why I go for the bones; at least I can enjoy the smell of the fish. I can at least taste it.

Jasmine, 37

Aside from selling boneless Pangas to restaurants at Tk400 per kg, this supplier also plays a vital role in repurposing leftover fish bones, ensuring that every bit of the Pangas is used and nothing goes to waste.

Jasmine, a 37-year-old mother of two and the wife of a construction worker, was standing in line to secure one of the skinned fish.

"I can't afford to buy the whole fish. That's why I go for the bones; at least I can enjoy the smell of the fish. I can at least taste it," she said.

The Pangas, stripped almost to its bones, will be prepared with lentils. Oftentimes, it is the only source of protein for Jasmine and her family.

Jasmine's sentiment was shared by others.

A shopkeeper at Rajib Fish Supply said he sells over 500 such fish bones per day.

Pangas, stripped almost to their bones, are available at the fish market in Jatrabari. Photo: Nayem Ali

Idris, a 59-year-old rickshaw puller whose dreams of relishing a Pangas fish feel as distant as the sea, also joined the queue of buyers.

"Because of the high price, having a Pangas fish even for a day seems like a dream," he shared.

"My family got tired of having eggs daily, so I buy these fish bones twice a week to add variety," he further said. 

Mithu Chowdhury, a worker at the Jatrabari fish market, echoed similar feelings. 

Pangas, stripped almost to their bones, are available at the fish market in Jatrabari. Photo: Nayem Ali

"Potatoes used to cost Tk20 per kg; now they are Tk40. Just a few days ago, they were at Tk60. It's tough for people like us who depend on daily labour to meet ends. What will we eat?"

For now, a bit of fish will suffice.