Threaded in time and tradition: Inside Panchlia’s 100-year-old Gamsa market

As dawn breaks over Panchlia in Sirajganj, men balancing bundles of woven Gamsa on their heads hurry past shouting prices, and traders from far-flung districts bargain in quick, rhythmic exchanges.

This is Panchlia Gamsa Haat — Bangladesh's largest and oldest hand-woven Gamsa market, a century-old institution that still keeps the handloom heritage of Sirajganj alive.

Twice every week, on Tuesdays and Fridays, this corner of Ullapara upazila transforms into a vibrant sea of Gamsas — multicoloured towels that are as essential to Bengali life as rice and tea.

The haat, located about 20 kilometres west of Sirajganj town, near the western side of the Jamuna Bridge on the field of Panchlia Badrul Alam High School, begins at the crack of dawn and winds down just after nine in the morning. According to the Bangladesh Handloom Board and the Haat Committee, trade worth two to three crore taka takes place in every haat.

"For over a century, a huge market has been held in Panchlia solely for the sale of multicoloured Gamsas," said local journalist Humayun Kabir. "The fame of the Gamsas here has spread not only within Bangladesh but has crossed the border to India's West Bengal, Assam, Tripura, and even parts of Myanmar."

"Traders buy the Gamsas from here, and some send them abroad to Europe, the UAE, and Malaysia as they have the largest number of expatriates, and it is very much in demand among them," Humayun added.

Photo: Anonno Afroz

A market rooted in tradition

The Panchlia Gamsa Haat was established over a hundred years ago, at a time when Sirajganj's weaving tradition was already flourishing. The district, rich in handloom heritage, became synonymous with fine-quality Gamsas , made by the skilled hands of local artisans. The haat grew and became the largest hub for buying and selling of these handwoven Gamsas.

Muktar Shah, one of the oldest traders at the market, recalled, "This Gamsa market was established in Panchlia almost a hundred years ago for the trade of Gamsas. Buying and selling take place twice a week — on Tuesdays and Fridays. The weavers walk around with bundles of Gamsas on their heads. They are bought by the wholesalers when the price meets their expectation."

The market is a wholesale one; individual buyers do not find much luck here. Each bundle contains 20 to 50 or even more "Thans" (unit used for cloth measurement), and each "Than" contains four Gamsas. Depending on the size, each unit (Than) sells for between Tk60 and Tk700.

The art of weaving

In nearby Pachil village of Hatikumrul union, the rhythmic clack of looms fills the air. Weaving is a family affair here; men and women share the work of dyeing yarn, spinning it on a "Charka", and setting up the loom. "A loom worker can weave eight to ten Gamsas a day," said weaver Hedayetullah. "We get Tk120 for weaving one 'Than' or four pieces of Gamsas."

For over a century, a huge market has been held in Panchlia solely for the sale of multicoloured Gamsas. The fame of the Gamsas here has spread not only within Bangladesh but has crossed the border. Traders buy the Gamsas from here, and some send them abroad to Europe, the UAE, and Malaysia as they have the largest number of expatriates, and it is very much in demand among them.

HUMAYUN KABIR, LOCAL JOURNALIST

The process begins with yarn of 20 or 40 count, depending on the desired fineness. The yarn is dyed, dried, wound onto spools, and carefully loaded into the loom.

"There was a time when Gamsas were made on khatkhati looms," explained Hedayetullah. "The loom was set on the ground with a pit, called a 'begi', dug underneath. Now, electricity is available in the loom fthactories, and iron looms have replaced the old wooden ones."

Those who create these cloths are known as "Karigors"; they are artisans who belong to the traditional weaving community. Many still bear the label "Jola", often used dismissively for weavers.

But over time, weaving has become a business that even families from agricultural backgrounds have embraced, owning looms and employing workers.

The livelihood of thousands of families in Sirajganj depends on this humble towel (Gamsa). "It is difficult to run a family with the wages earned from weaving," said Ajahar Shah, a weaver from Pachila village. "Still, we are holding onto this profession. We do not know any alternative work other than this."

Many others shared the same sentiment. "Due to the abnormal increase in the price of dye and yarn repeatedly, we are not profiting much from this work," said Ranju Mia, who owns a small Gamsa factory and came to the market to sell his goods.

"While we were profitable at one point, we are not making much now. Government assistance, including a reduction in the price of dye and yarn and loan support, is needed to save this traditional industry."

The story is the same for almost all the families working tirelessly to preserve an art form that is under threat from rising costs and dwindling profits. More than a lakh people are involved in this profession — their lives revolving around the hum of the loom.

The threads used to weave these Gamsas are also sold in this haat, all locally made and produced by the community itself. Photo: Anonno Afroz

The threads used to weave these Gamsas are also sold in this haat — all locally made and produced by the community itself. Weavers complained that a pound of 60-count yarn is now selling in the market for Tk293 to Tk295, whereas just two months ago it was priced between Tk275 and Tk280. The price of all types of yarn has increased by Tk10 to Tk15 per pound. Similarly, the prices of all machine parts imported from countries like China have also gone up.

Amirul Islam, a weaver from Tamai village in Belkuchi upazila, said that yarn prices have increased, and the rising cost of machine parts has significantly jacked up production costs.

"Yet, we can't sell our woven fabrics at higher prices in the haat. It has become difficult to keep this business running," he said.

The changing market

But the market today is not what it used to be. "Buying and selling have decreased recently," said Ekramul Shah, a seller from Paiksha village. "The price of dye, yarn, and other materials has increased, but the price of the Gamsa has not increased proportionately. Consequently, we are not profiting much. Moreover, the demand for Gamsas has been low in the market for several months."

In earlier days, sales would be over by 8 AM. Now, sellers often pack up unsold goods and return home disappointed.

"Previously, I used to sell Gamsas and return home with money between 6 and 7 AM," said Rehan Hossain. "But today, it is 9 AM, and the Gamsas haven't been sold yet because there are no merchants in the market."

Photo: Anonno Afroz

Wholesalers are also feeling the pinch. "Earlier, I used to sell Gamsas for Tk400," said Hanif Shah, a wholesale buyer from Pipulbaria. "Now I am selling the same Gamsa for Tk300. After paying for materials, there is hardly any profit left."

Old trader Nur A Alam added, "Many are changing their profession because of the slump in the market. The Gamsas that was previously sold for Tk250 is now being sold for Tk150. The lack of wholesalers and merchants at the market is leading to poor sales."

Even so, some traders like Alam from Shah Kamarkhand and Ansu Shah from Kazipur, who have been in the business for 20 years, remain optimistic.

"Now the Gamsa market is slightly better," Alam said. "Last week we bought each 'Than' for Tk350; this week it is Tk400. Government monitoring of dye and yarn prices, along with loan assistance, is necessary to keep this traditional industry alive."

Hope from the handloom board

Despite the difficulties, there is some light on the horizon. The Bangladesh Handloom Board has taken steps to include Sirajganj Gamsas in the list of Geographical Indication (GI) products, a recognition that could protect and promote this traditional craft.

"We have submitted a research paper for the inclusion of the Gamsa as a Geographical Indicator product," said Amit Sarkar, Liaison Officer of the Sirajganj Handloom Board.

"It has been published through the Bangladesh Printing and Publications Department. The board is also providing easy-term loans and financial cooperation to promote the handloom business and help weavers carry on their trade more easily."

He added that the board is also working to control the market for dye and yarn, a long-standing demand from weavers. "Steps are being taken to list the Gamsas of Sirajganj as a GI product," he said. "Additionally, the board will work to monitor the market and provide training for the weavers."

Photo: Anonno Afroz

Preserving a heritage

The Gamsa is a symbol of Bengali identity, a simple yet indispensable piece of cloth seen in fields, markets, and homes. Though many urban dwellers have turned to towels, Gamsa still exists.

For the people of Panchlia, it is more than a product — it is a way of life, an inheritance passed down through generations. The cries of the traders roaming through the haat with Gamsas slung over their shoulders still echo through the market, and their legacy lives on.

Following in their footsteps, their successors will also arrive before sunrise, balancing bundles on their heads, waiting for the first deal of the day.

Watching the haat wind down under the rising sun, it felt timeless — men counting notes, women folding bright fabrics, and the clatter of looms fading away in the distance.

The Panchlia Gamsa Haat stands not only as a market but as a testament to the resilience of Bangladesh's handloom tradition — a century-old story still being woven, thread by thread.