'Komola Rocket' returns: A century-old steamer set to sail on Padma-Meghna
The steamer is set to offer a scenic Dhaka–Barishal river journey and revive its legendary charm and speed
Despite searching for the historic vessel PS Mahsud under various names at several ghats along the Buriganga, I could not find it. I wandered around with dull expressions, but the moment I mentioned the word "Rocket," all eyes at the ghat lit up. I soon learned that the Rocket PS Mahsud was at Badamtoli Ghat, with preparations for its departure in full swing.
The afternoon sun shone brightly over Badamtoli Ghat. The Mahsud was moored beside the MV Madhumati, while behind it, the quiet work of refitting continued. There was no sign of fatigue among the workers — the place buzzed with activity. Some were painting, others inspecting the engine, and a few checking the cabins to ensure everything was in order.
Many hands worked diligently to restore the worn-out fittings of the old steamer. The care poured into the restoration was evident in its renewed vitality; despite its age and the challenges faced, it seemed almost eternally young. After four years of retirement, the Mahsud is set to return to the river this November, and the workers' enthusiasm for its revival shows no sign of fading.
The paddle steamer now stands beautifully restored, gradually taking on the sharp grace like a hawk in both colour and form. Yet, everyone still fondly remembers it as the "Komola Rocket." The name "Rocket" reflects its remarkable speed — in its heyday, the vessel could travel from Dhaka to Khulna in just 20-22 hours. Passengers would exclaim that it moved like a rocket — hence the name "Water Rocket." And its bright orange hue earned it the affectionate nickname "Komola Rocket."
After a long hiatus, the century-old paddle steamer is set to sail again on the Padma and Meghna rivers. Many who once travelled from Dhaka to Barishal or Khulna began their journeys by boarding the Mahsud at Sadarghat. But over time, the construction of the Padma Bridge changed everything. As road routes became more popular, the need for river voyages like the Mahsud's gradually diminished.
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"Where we once carried around 500 passengers, after the bridge was built, not even 200 would come. That's why the service was stopped," said Sohag, the steamer's engine driver.
Yet once upon a time, the Rocket ruled the rivers. Passengers from the southwestern parts of the country relied on it to reach their destinations. According to Sohag, everyone from politicians and businessmen of South Bengal to heads of state had travelled on the Mahsud at one time or another. Even Queen Elizabeth of England is said to have boarded this historic vessel.
There are only four or five paddle steamers of this kind left in the world, and the Mahsud is one of these rare survivors.
"Since I joined here, I've seen many tourists from Europe come just to see it — some even travel on it," said Saiful, a resident of Muladi upazila in Barishal, who is now the steamer's engine driver after three years as an engine assistant. According to Sohag, what makes the Mahsud truly special is its paddle system. "Other steamers use more common propulsion systems, but the Mahsud runs on paddles. When the paddles churn the water, the sight is mesmerising. The whole mechanism is unlike any other."
The government has decided to relaunch the Mahsud as part of its heritage preservation efforts. The steamer is set to resume its journey on 15 November with a grand ceremony. However, it will no longer operate on the Dhaka–Khulna route. Instead, it will run twice a week, offering tourists the chance to experience the scenic river journey between Dhaka and Barishal: Fridays from Dhaka to Barishal, and Saturdays from Barishal to Dhaka.
Tanvir Ahmed, the steamer's Commercial DGM, explained, "While it was once possible to operate up to Khulna, that service will no longer be available. There will also be no night trips — the steamer will run only during the day, from Dhaka to Barishal via Chandpur, and back again."
He added that there would be fewer passengers, as the service will now operate more like a river cruise than a transport route. Although the steamer can carry over 500 passengers after extensive repairs, a smaller number will be allowed for safety reasons.
For the convenience of passengers, the first-class section of the steamer has three toilets and one shower room. The second class also includes three toilets and a shower. For deck passengers, there are a total of 12 toilets. However, none of these are attached to the cabins — all are built separately.
When asked whether passengers are allowed to stay overnight on the steamer, Sohag replied, "No." Even those who wish to make a round trip from Dhaka to Barishal and back must return the next morning. Normally, overnight stays are not permitted — it goes against the Mahsud's regulations.
However, in special cases, such permission can be granted through an official order. For instance, if someone rents all the first-class cabins and purchases round-trip tickets, they may apply to the head office for permission to stay overnight. Whether or not that permission is granted depends entirely on the head office's decision, Sohag explained.
The reason behind this rule is that keeping the cabins open at night requires the generator to run continuously, as it is impossible to stay onboard without electricity. But running the generator all night for a single passenger is not feasible. Therefore, according to the regulations, staying overnight on the steamer is not allowed. Sohag further added that while the corporation can issue special permission, such decisions are beyond the authority of the steamer's management itself.
Despite its age, almost everything inside the vessel has been renewed — from the engine and generators to the cabins. It now has four generators instead of three, new engine parts, replaced and refitted floor plates, and upgraded air-conditioning. In addition, the radar, echo sounder, GPS, and compass have all been modernised.
For passengers' safety, every part of the steamer — from the engine to the deck — is thoroughly inspected before each journey. "We check the main engine, diesel lines, electrical connections, and whether there's any water in the bilge — everything. Since it's a paddle steamer, we pay special attention to the nuts and bolts of the paddles," said Sohag.
Once a week, the nuts and bolts of the vessel's foundation are tightened, and rubber pads, linings, and discs are checked regularly. "Whatever can be done to ensure the steamer's safety has been done. The rest is in the hands of Allah," he added.
The Mahsud is operated by a team of experienced sailors and officers. DGM Tanvir Ahmed oversees operations from the head office, while Fahmidul Islam (Commercial Associate Manager) and Russell (Associate Manager, Marine) manage repairs and general operations. Executive Engineer Faizur Rahman is responsible for engineering, and an officer in the accounts department manages staff salaries.
Around 150 to 200 employees work on wharf and passenger services. Onboard, the engineering section has 10 crew members, the deck has 15, and 25–30 staff handle catering, including butlers and cooks.
According to Sohag, the biggest change is in the food service. Meals will now be served buffet-style, featuring both local and international dishes, with a separate buffet for first-class passengers. Experienced chefs and catering staff have been appointed, although the final menu is yet to be decided.
The number of cabins remains unchanged — 12 in first class and 10 in second class — though the facilities have been upgraded. Nine sound systems have been installed for entertainment, and a special meeting space will be available exclusively for first-class passengers.
The fare is yet to be confirmed. Previously, AC cabins cost around Tk2,000, non-AC cabins Tk1,000–1,200, and deck passengers around Tk140. Tanvir hinted that rates might change. The journey from Dhaka to Barishal will take a maximum of 12 hours, though Sohag believes it could be completed in as little as nine and a half hours under smooth conditions.
Now a veteran, the Mahsud remains a legend. Over the years, it has carried many notable passengers, including the poet Jibanananda Das, who is said to have used the steamer to travel between Dhaka and Barishal. Around 1929, other well-known steamers included the Lepcha, Ostrich, and Gazi, with Jibanananda reputedly travelling on the Mahsud.
Many stories of steamers appear in his diary. On 7 July 1932, he wrote: "There is no room on the steamer… I have to keep my bedding tied up… People are watching me, trying to guess… Two will go to Jhalakathi, hoping to take their land back… Of all the passengers, I have looked at the river and sky the most."
"All of this can be felt from the third-class deck of the steamer; the sorrow of life is, 'Are you still third-class today?'"
This untitled poem, from the posthumously published collection Chaya Abchaya, reveals Jibanananda Das's melancholy associated with steamers, the frustration of unemployment, and a deep sense of life's fragility. Perhaps to understand this sadness, or because of it, he often travelled in third class. Whenever he could, the poet of Ruposhi Bangla journeyed from Barishal to Khulna by steamer, then by train via Benapole to Kolkata.
The rhythmic churning of the steamer's paddles, echoing across the Padma and Meghna, seems almost intertwined with the quietude of his Banalata Sen and the flowing imagery of rivers in Ruposhi Bangla.
Looking at its history, it is clear that for nearly a century, the Mahsud has carried not just passengers, but dreams, memories, hopes, disappointments, and even seeds of poetry.
We spoke to 70-year-old Jamal Hossain at Sadarghat, a resident of Chandpur, who said, "I have travelled on this steamer hundreds of times. When I heard that it would sail again, my heart rejoiced."
In today's fast-paced world, the survival of the Mahsud is a living piece of history. Its endurance as a symbol of beauty, despite being swept along by the currents of time, is remarkable. Whether it carries many passengers or few, seeing the Mahsud glide along the river is 'good news' for countless people.
