An ode to ‘90s fashion with Utshob
Sadia Ayman’s wardrobe in the film ‘Utshob’ takes a nostalgic journey back to ‘90s Dhaka, featuring soft colours, flared cuts, and distinct textures that are reminiscent of the era’s iconic fashion
Cinema has always played a crucial role in setting fashion trends for the general audience. Whether it is wearing a baggy salwar with a t-shirt and scarf like Geet in 'Jab We Met', or one-shoulder kameez like Poo from 'Kabhi Khushi Kabhi Gham'.
Even the Anarkali suit, named after the dancer herself in 'Mughal-e-Azam', chiffon sharis, and double-layered salwar kameez all made their rounds through the silver screen to wardrobes of the general public. When we see these clothes, we get nostalgic for that era.
In the 2025 film 'Utshob', audiences got a throwback to '90s fashion through the outfits worn by Jesmine, played by actress Sadia Ayman.
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Throughout the film, Jesmine's wardrobe felt like flipping through an old family photo album where cousins, sisters, and neighbours once posed in pastel salwars with lace trims or bright red churidars under the winter sun.
In an age when 'retro' is often equated with loud, mismatched styling, 'Utshob' offers a simple, beautiful reminder of what fashion really used to look like for girls growing up in 90s Bangladesh.
One of the earlier looks shows her in a soft baby pink salwar kameez with delicate embroidery. The orna is draped simply across her neck, the sleeves modest, and the fabric light. This is a look many Bangladeshis would immediately recognise from the '90s, worn during visits to the public library or coaching classes.
The hair is half-pinned, makeup being just eyeliner and light lipstick, radiating young innocence. There's no attempt to modernise it with unnecessary updates—it's authentically untouched.
Another standout look is her mint green and sky blue outfit. With its slightly flared cut and shiny border, it captures the youthful energy of the time. Girls wore similar looks on Eid mornings or school and college events.
What makes this styling impressive is how it walks the line between memory and fiction. It doesn't feel like just another costume, but a reminder of a time where we dressed up the same.
A more mature version of Jesmine is seen in a lacey blue suit. Lace was a favourite texture back then, especially during special occasions. The neckline is elegant but not experimental, while her voluminous hair and light blush shows she likes to keep it simple but not dull.
"Jesmine's style evolution reflects not just her wardrobe, but her emotional arc. We used colours to match her mood. When she's happy or in love, the clothes are brighter. But as her situation changes, her wardrobe slowly shifts too," shared costume designer Tania Rahman.
When Jesmine appears in red, it marks a turning point. The red salwar kameez she wears isn't over the top because the colour is loud. The bright colour, scalloped edges, and embroidered detail are familiar: not flashy, just festive. Her hair, softly waved and side-parted, reflects how many young women styled themselves for special occasions back then.
Her makeup is slightly bolder too, a deeper lip colour and defined eyes but still coy, like someone who wants to look grown-up without going overboard. It's a realistic, emotional moment in her journey, not just a costume change, and it fits naturally into the story.
"We looked at a lot of '90s Bollywood films while designing Jesmine's looks. Actresses like Juhi Chawla and Madhuri Dixit were big references. We made sure the cuts and colours matched that time while keeping the clothes true to Jesmine's character," said the costume designer.
"Tanim Noor is a perfectionist," she added. "Every detail mattered to him from the neckline of a kameez to how an orna was draped. It pushed all of us to really think through every look and make sure it fit both the story and the time period."
"This vision really came to life because of the whole team," she continued. "Shafique, our makeup artist, kept everything very natural. We didn't want heavy makeup, just the kind of soft, real look girls had back then. It helped the costumes feel even more believable."
What 'Utshob' gets right is that it does not overdo nostalgia. The outfits feel sincere. There's no exaggeration, no over-accessorising. Each fabric, drape, and cut seems thoughtfully chosen to reflect the everyday glamour of that decade.
In an age when 'retro' is often equated with loud, mismatched styling, 'Utshob' offers a simple, beautiful reminder of what really fashion used to look like for girls growing up in '90s Bangladesh.
