BFW 2023: Exploring the common thread between fashion and nature
Besides the 18 designers from Bangladesh, veteran and upcoming, the show welcomed beautiful works of six Indian designers
Around 80 years ago, it was New York that emerged as the birthplace of the first fashion week. The aim was to give French fashion a much-needed breather in a war-ravaged world.
Over the decades, the sole purpose of this mega event hasn't changed much, with business remaining at the centre of all activities. Brands and designers showcase their works to attract buyers and get fashion editors' votes.
Besides the four majors, plenty of fashion weeks are taking place around the world, showcasing great works of designers, trends that will outlast the older ones and must-haves or collectibles that would take their place on the pages of history.
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In our country, the fashion week started to take place in 2019. The last one took place right before the onset of the Covid-19 pandemic. Then a hiatus of three years. This year we were lucky enough to witness the third Bangladesh Fashion Week (BFW) and we have reasons to be hopeful.
Fashion Design Council of Bangladesh (FDCB) led by founder president Maheen Khan organised the two-day BFW 2023. This non-profit organisation has been working as the wind beneath the wings of local designers and thousands of artisans who are fighting to preserve the skills and craftsmanship in a world swept up by digital technologies.
For many of these artisans, the tradecraft is handed down from their ancestors and once they die, the motif, pattern or design they create becomes a part of the bygone era. FDCB is, therefore, on a mission to support these artisans. What makes BFW 2023 an extraordinary effort is its inclusion of those designers from neighbouring countries who also align their mission with that of FDCB's. Besides the 18 designers from Bangladesh, veteran and upcoming, the show welcomed beautiful works of six Indian designers. Among them we had UNESCO heritage award winners, craft practitioners and champions of indigenous weaving techniques.
The saree was the overall show-stealer as it kept coming back on the stage. For some designers it was a canvas to paint on, for some it was a medium to show various forms of needleworks. Be it Maheen Khan's impeccable works or Afsana Ferdousi imagining saree as a medium to tell the story of a blue river; be it Paromita Banerjee's shada laal per saree made by Kolkata weavers' cluster or Soumitra Mondol's collection 'Musafir', portraying a female traveler's journey - the versatility of saree and designers complemented each other.
Iba Malai's use of eri silk or Charlee Mathlena's monochrome collection give us reason to believe that not all is lost when it comes to indigenous heirloom crafts.
Khadi was also another champion of the show. Both Lipi Khandker and Shaibal Saha outperformed their previous collections by not only experimenting with cuts and silhouettes, but also imagining fashionable ready-to-wear pieces for stylish people.
Among the other ace designers like Chandana Dewan and Rukhsana Esrar, motifs of our festivals or nature were encapsulated.
Among the new designers, Imam Hassan's resort collection was one not to miss out on. Earthy tones never looked so fashionable before. Tanha Sheikh's ocean themed dresses spoke volumes of flowiness.
For the first time, the show featured non-FDCB brands. Apex footwear is slowly trying to lure their consumers to lifestyle products, and with this show, their womenswear line Jatarea was coronated. The breezy collection had ready-to-wear clothings, along with their shoe line Nino Rossi, creating looks empowered, young girls and women would love to don. The next day they showcased their men's footwear range from the Venturini label.
Apex footwear was the power partner of the event. Hyundai Bangladesh was the car partner and Community Bank was the banking partner. With support from a number of other sponsors, the event was organised by Shera 360 Digital.
The shows attracted a huge crowd who mostly have been keen followers of the individual local designers. Throughout the years, they have bought their clothes, rooted for their creativity and kept encouraging them to stay put on a less trodden path - a path that is fraught with challenges, from both technological and financial aspects.
Even though most of the audience were from privileged backgrounds, at least for them the originality of handcrafted designs and fabrics are still in vogue. The only missing dot here is the absence of the craftsmen and artisans who have faced exploitation all their lives.
While the show attempted to promote story-telling through fashion, the designers and their dazzling creations only got the spotlight. The absence of artisans or even sewers who helped the designers capture their dreams on fabric with nifty needleworks was quite palpable to many spectators.
Perhaps next time FDCB will take initiatives so that BFW becomes a unique platform to know the soldiers of crafts who have been fighting a lifelong battle to preserve a single threadwork technique.
