Where the Padma flows, so does the aroma of Molla’s beef khichuri
What began as a ferry-side rice stall has become a culinary landmark, defining Naodoba’s food scene.
The Padma flows with a majesty that defines Bangladesh's heart — vast, untamed, and alive with colour and sound. Along its sweeping banks, cool winds carry the river's earthy scent while sunlight dances over ripples of gold and silver.
On this breathtaking stretch rests Naodoba, a quiet riverside village where the Padma's breeze shapes both life's rhythm and the flavour of its air. Here, time slows; boats drift lazily as travellers linger to breathe in the wild beauty.
What was once a stop for river views and boat rides has become a destination for another kind of experience — one that tempts the palate as much as it soothes the soul. A humble yet irresistible dish: Molla's khichuri.
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A humble beginning
Some 30 years ago, when the Padma Bridge was still a dream and the Kathalbari ferry ghat thrived with the noise of launches and speedboats, Mohammad Alamgir Khan opened a small eatery there.
It was a simple hotel serving rice and hilsa — the prized fish of the Padma. Travellers from the southern districts would stop to eat before boarding their ferries, and Alamgir quickly became a familiar name among regular passengers.
But nights were quieter. As ferry traffic slowed, rice sales dipped. To keep the kitchen busy, Alamgir began cooking egg khichuri — a quick, comforting meal that warmed tired travellers.
Nearly two decades later, he made a change that would redefine his business. He added beef to the pot.
The experiment was a revelation. The soft, buttery rice and lentils absorbed the rich spice of the meat, creating something both hearty and fragrant. Soon, word spread from the ghat to Mawa, and then to Dhaka. Passengers began arriving with a single question: "Where can we find Molla's khichuri?"
From riverside hotel to food landmark
Alamgir's pious nature earned him the nickname "Molla," and the name stuck — Molla Hotel and Restaurant. What began as a ferry-side rice stall has become a culinary landmark, defining Naodoba's food scene.
After Alamgir's passing, his son Shahjahan Khan took over, keeping the same simplicity. Every afternoon around four, the kitchen comes alive.
The air thickens with the scent of cloves, cardamom, and slow-cooked beef. As one pot empties, another takes its place. Ten to 12 cauldrons are cooked daily, using up to 120 kilograms of beef.
"We never compromise on ingredients," Shahjahan says. "The oil, spices, rice — all are of the highest quality. The meat is carefully selected, and our kitchen is always open for anyone to see."
The taste that travels
A plate of Molla's beef bhuna khichuri costs Tk140 — generous spoonfuls of fragrant rice and tender beef, accompanied by salads and seasonal pickle, from mango to olive or hog plum.
Half plates go for Tk70, while special parcels for family back home sell for Tk210. "It is rare for anyone to eat here without taking a parcel," says staff member Aiyub Ali.
"Try it once, and you will find yourself coming back," says Didarul Islam, a student from Jagannath University.
Maisha Amin, a frequent traveller along the route, adds, "I have attempted to recreate it at home, but it never tastes the same. The spices are bold yet perfectly balanced; every bite feels alive"
When the Padma Bridge opened in 2022, ferry operations at Kathalbari slowed, and Molla Hotel moved closer to the new hub in Naodoba. The change, however, did not dim its charm.
After a meal, visitors often wander to the nearby Padma. The river stretches wide beneath the Padma Bridge, its waters reflecting the cascading evening lights. Adventurous visitors can take boat or trawler rides across the river's expansive, untamed waters, adding motion to the calm.
For those who come to Naodoba, Molla's khichuri is more than a meal; it is a memory: the warmth of beef and rice mingling with the river breeze, the laughter of strangers sharing tables, and the simple joy of tasting something inseparable from its place.
