Experience authentic Marma flavours at Re Khyaing

Photos: Shaharin Amin Shupty

Bandarban, one of the most popular tourist destinations in Bangladesh, is now filled with luxury resorts and hotels, both in the town and in quieter areas outside it. These resorts not only offer comfortable stays but also serve a wide range of food to their guests. Besides, many restaurants and tourist spots claim to offer "authentic" local dishes.

But despite Bandarban being home to at least 11 indigenous communities, most hotels, resorts, and restaurants don't really serve what can truly be called genuine local food. As a result, even after spending a lot on expensive meals, tourists rarely get to taste the real flavours of Bandarban, unless they venture deep into the hills to stay with the warm, hospitable indigenous communities.

However, that doesn't mean there's no place for good food at all. In fact, there's one restaurant right in the centre of Bandarban town in Ujanipara that can satisfy your craving for authentic local cuisine.

The restaurant is called Re Khyaing. Though some mistake the name for "Rakhine," the owners explain that Re Khyaing means "chilled water" in the Marma language. And just like its name carries a touch of Marma identity, so do the dishes it serves, that too at a price much more affordable than most other places, sometimes even one-third the cost.

Duck Curry

The Marma duck curry has a thick, reddish-brown gravy that feels rich but not overwhelming. The spices blend gently, bringing out the smoky, slightly caramelised flavour of the duck. The meat is tender with a bit of chew, showing it's been cooked slowly to let the flavours deepen and develop. Unlike heavily spiced versions, this one relies on balance rather than heat.

This dish is simple, hearty, and satisfying. It's not meant to impress with flashy ingredients but to comfort with its honest, deep flavour. Each bite carries a subtle warmth that pairs well with plain rice and other local sides.

Price: Tk300

Toja

Toja is a crisp, cold salad featuring blanched cucumber, cabbage, and yardlong beans. The vegetables remain fresh and crunchy, with no heavy seasoning to mask their natural flavours. The focus here is on texture and freshness, making it a refreshing counterpoint to the heavier dishes.

What lifts the dish is the sharp, vibrant green chilli chutney served alongside. Made with crushed green chillies, garlic, salt, and sometimes a hint of fermented shrimp or lime, the chutney adds a spicy brightness that awakens the palate. Together, the salad and chutney create a clean, lively taste that refreshes between bites.

Price: Tk50

Mashed Egg

Boiled eggs are roughly crushed and mixed with green chilli, onion, salt, and mustard oil, creating a rustic texture where each bite varies between creamy yolk, firm white, and gentle heat. The chillies add warmth, while the mustard oil gives a sharp, nutty flavour that ties everything together.

This simple side quietly complements the meal, offering a satisfying contrast to richer dishes. It pairs especially well with warm rice, where the spicy, oily mash soaks in to provide comforting bites alongside curries and fried foods.

Price: Tk50

Crab Curry

Crabs are cooked whole in a slow-simmered gravy made with turmeric, garlic, and crushed green chillies. The soft-shelled crabs absorb the thick, aromatic sauce, becoming tender and flavourful. Eating this dish is a hands-on experience, requiring you to crack the shells and pick through the meat.

The curry balances spicy heat and earthy notes with the crab's natural sweetness. It's a bold and authentic dish, rich in flavour and texture. While messy to eat, it rewards patience with every bite, offering a true taste of the local rivers and forests.

Price: Tk150

Mushrooms

The mushrooms are sautéed lightly with minimal oil and mixed with scrambled eggs, resulting in a soft, tender texture. Likely made with locally foraged or grown varieties like oyster mushrooms, they have a gentle chewiness. The dish is mild, with subtle hints of hill garlic or ginger adding earthiness.

Though understated, the dish grows on you with each bite. It offers a quiet balance to stronger, spicier flavours, letting the natural taste of mushrooms and eggs come through clearly.

Price: Tk100

Rupchanda Fry

The Rupchanda fish is fried whole, seasoned simply with salt and turmeric. The skin crisps to a golden brown, releasing a pleasant aroma. The flesh is firm and slightly chewy, yet retains a natural sweetness enhanced by the frying process.

Though modest, the fish makes a dependable side dish that pairs well with rich curries and spicy chutneys. A squeeze of fresh lime adds brightness, cutting through the richness and making it a satisfying part of the meal.

Price: Tk220

Chicken Chutney

Shredded chicken is mixed with crushed green chillies, garlic, onion, and local herbs, creating a dry yet moist texture. The dish delivers a sharp, earthy flavour with an immediate, clean heat from the chillies. The shredded meat holds the spices well without overwhelming the palate.

This chutney stands out as a spicy side that adds depth and brightness to the meal. It pairs perfectly with plain rice or milder dishes like boiled vegetables or mashed egg, providing a lively contrast that balances the plate.

Price: Tk120

Bamboo Shoot

Bamboo shoot is stir-fried with green chillies, onion and salt, cooked just enough to keep it crunchy and thick. Its fibrous texture resists softening, giving it a satisfying bite. The flavour is earthy with slight bitterness and mild sourness, reflecting its wild, natural roots.

A faint fermented note adds subtle depth without overpowering. The chillies and oil bring warmth and richness, creating a slow, lingering heat. This dish is bold and straightforward, staying true to its hill origins.

Price: Tk150

Squid Fry

Fresh squid is cut into thick pieces and fried slowly in mustard oil with garlic, turmeric, onion and green chillies. The outside crisps lightly while the inside stays tender and chewy, creating a satisfying texture throughout the meal.

The flavour is smoky and spicy, with salt balancing the squid's natural ocean taste. Mustard oil adds an earthy depth characteristic of Marma cooking. It's a straightforward, bold dish that remains true to its roots without being toned down.

 Price: Tk270