Dining inside a painting: The old-world charm of Karaachi Dastarkhwan

The moment we stepped into Karaachi Dastarkhwan, it felt like peeking into a scene from an old Peshawari painting. Tucked away on Banani's busy streets, the restaurant offers the perfect old-school escape we needed on a cold winter afternoon.

The blue seating, red dastarkhwan, and colourful motifs create a striking chromatic contrast. Adding to the cosy and inviting interior, the wooden flooring and warm lighting enhance the charm of timeless Peshawari craftsmanship.

With cuisine-based restaurants sprouting across Dhaka, all claiming authenticity, standing out is no easy task. From the moment we entered, it was clear that this place was designed with families in mind. However, our primary focus was the food. Karaachi Dastarkhwan offers authentic Pakistani cuisine, with a special emphasis on Peshawari dishes. The highlight? Their chef himself hails from Peshawar.

Karaachi Chicken Tikka

We began with the Karaachi Chicken Tikka, a visual treat to say the least. Served on a sizzling platter with smouldering charcoal beneath, the dish filled the air with a rich, smoky aroma.

The chicken was perfectly spiced and thoroughly infused with smokiness. While slightly less salt would have elevated it further, it still made for an excellent start. Served with spiced onions, this tender and light dish set the tone beautifully for the meal.

Price: Tk350

Peshawari Beef Chapli

The Peshawari beef chapli is one of the restaurant's most popular dishes. Made with ground beef, it offers a refreshing departure from the more common mutton chapli. The dish delivered exactly what it promised: a crisp, dark exterior giving way to a tender centre.

What truly stood out was the texture. This was not a dish striving for refinement; instead, the meat was kept coarse, lending it a rustic, robust character. The first bite revealed perfectly balanced spice, with coriander, green chilli, and cumin shining through. We were advised to pair it with garlic naan—and the combination was heavenly. Served with mint and tamarind chutney, this is undoubtedly a must-try.

Price: Tk950

Karaachi Beef Biryani

One of their house specials—and for good reason. The first bite revealed why this seemingly simple biryani turned out to be the standout dish of the day. It arrived in a traditional copper bucket, devoid of theatrical garnishes, adding to its understated, old-school charm.

At first glance, the biryani may appear modest, but the flavour more than compensates. The portion is generous, easily enough for two. Infused with Pakistani spices and herbs, it is distinctly different from the biryanis typically found at Bangladeshi eateries. 

The beef was spicy, tender, and perfectly cooked, while the saffron-infused rice was aromatic, fluffy, and well balanced. The meat was richly flavoured without being overpowering. The addition of dry fruits introduced a subtle, unexpected dimension.

This dish stood out most for us. Later, Wali, our attendant, shared insight into the effort behind it. "We use spices imported from Karachi for this dish. Several of them are unheard of in this region," he explained.

Price: Tk950

Karaachi Mutton Nihari

The mutton nihari is one of their signature dishes, but it disappointed us to some extent. We were expecting something more distinctive; unfortunately, it did not quite live up to expectations.

Visually, it arrived looking the part—a deep brown gravy with a glossy surface and tender-looking pieces of meat. However, the flavour fell short. The broth lacked the slow-cooked depth and layered spice that define a good nihari, tasting flatter than anticipated.

 It was also slightly too salty. While the mutton itself was reasonably well-cooked, it did not fully absorb the richness of the gravy. The spices felt muted, and the dish missed the signature warmth and comfort that nihari is known for.

It was not bad by any means, but it failed to match the hype—especially when compared with the stronger, more confident offerings on the menu.

Price: Tk1,000

Peshawari Kulfi

We ended our meal with the Peshawari Kulfi, which proved to be a fitting finale. Served with slivers of coconut and topped with crushed almonds, it looked soft and soothing from the moment it arrived. Perhaps not ideal for winter, but on a summer afternoon, it would be a perfect choice to beat the heat.

Neither overly sweet nor bland, this dessert strikes an impressive balance. It is ideal for those without a strong sweet tooth. The only drawback was that it was slightly too frozen, which was hard to ignore. Otherwise, it provided a pleasant and satisfying end to the meal.

Price: Tk250