Into the hills: A journey through the heart of Bandarban
From the calm waters of the Sangu River to the winding trails of Nilachal and Devtakum, Bandarban reveals its magic in layers of green and silence
These days, hardly anyone wants to stay cooped up at home. Whenever people get the chance, they pack their bags and set off to explore — each in their own way, within their means.
In the south-eastern corner of Bangladesh lies a region blessed with both hills and sea. On one side rise the lush green slopes of Bandarban; on the other, the endless waves of Cox's Bazar. The two districts sit side by side, making it possible to experience both mountain air and sea breeze in a single trip.
Many travellers combine the two — some head to Cox's Bazar after roaming the hills of Bandarban, while others do the reverse. What draws them is not just the natural beauty, but also the rich cultural diversity, the variety of languages, and the fascinating lives of the people who call these hills home.
Off the beaten path
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For most visitors, a trip to the hills still means stopping by the usual tourist spots — places built of concrete and glass, ideal for family outings. Others, with a few free days in hand, dream of disappearing into the remote hills where mobile networks fade and nature takes over.
But even those seeking peace and quiet often fall into the same routine, travelling far only to visit familiar places. Bandarban, however, rewards those who wander off the beaten path. With a little planning and curiosity, the district reveals far more than most imagine.
Bandarban is the most diverse of the three districts that make up the Chittagong Hill Tracts. Eleven indigenous communities live here, each with its own language, cuisine, lifestyle, and cultural traditions.
The Marma people live on one side of the Sangu River, while the Tripura community can be found across the water in Kalaghata. A little further along are the villages of the Tanchangya people.
Drive towards the Ruma–Thanchi road and you'll pass through Shailaprapat, home to the Bom community, whose villages are remarkably tidy and well kept. Spread across the Chimbuk hill range are the Mro people, the second-largest ethnic group in Bandarban.
Though the town itself is small, every corner holds a distinct identity. While exploring, stop to taste the local dishes — perhaps some traditional Mundi food or handmade pithas. And if you prefer something more familiar, you'll easily find simple Bangladeshi meals at roadside stalls and local eateries.
A boat ride along the Sangu
If you wish to escape the town for a few hours, the Sangu River is the perfect place to start. From the Kachingghata area, you can hire a boat and travel upstream towards Betchhara. Along the way, you'll drift past quiet hill villages, farmers tending their fields, and the gentle rhythm of life by the river.
On both banks, the green stretches of vegetable gardens create a picture of serenity. From the water, you can even glimpse the majestic Chimbuk hill rising in the distance.
Boat fares vary depending on size and capacity. A small boat that carries up to ten people costs around Tk1,200 for a round trip, taking about an hour. Larger boats, which can hold up to twenty passengers, cost around Tk1,500 and take a little longer.
Bandarban is the most diverse of the three districts that make up the Chittagong Hill Tracts. Eleven indigenous communities live here, each with its own language, food, lifestyle, and cultural traditions.
Betchhara can also be reached by road. From the town's Traffic Mor area, CNGs and Mahindra vehicles are available for Tk 1,200–1,500, with the round trip taking roughly two hours.
Alternatively, you can travel downstream from the main boat ghat — a quieter route with views of both hill and Bengali villages, dotted with rice paddies and vegetable fields. You won't even need a guide for this simple yet scenic trip.
The road to Tongkaboti and Chimbuk
From the town, you can hire different vehicles depending on your group size. CNGs and Mahindras are available at Traffic Mor, while jeeps (locally known as chander gari) and Land Cruisers can be rented from the bus station. The smaller vehicles cost around Tk2,200–2,500, while jeeps and Land Cruisers range between Tk3,500–4,000.
The road to Tongkaboti passes through Suwalak, where the Marma and Tanchangya communities live. As the road winds through small canals and green valleys, you'll pass fields of cucumbers, bitter gourds, and papayas spread across the landscape where the plains meet the hills.
Photography enthusiasts will find plenty to capture here — from misty hilltops to smiling locals at roadside markets. After a short rest at Tongkaboti bazar, continue towards Chimbuk hill. The road becomes steeper and more winding, lined with tall trees and dotted with jum (shifting cultivation) plots. Every turn offers a new view of the emerald hills stretching endlessly into the horizon.
At the Chimbuk tourist spot, you can pause for lunch. Meals are often cooked fresh, so a short wait is normal — but it's a pleasant break to wander around and soak in the scenery while your food is prepared. Like most places in Bandarban, you won't need a guide to explore this route; the road itself leads you to beauty.
The hidden gorge of Devtakum
Roangchhari, the nearest upazila to Bandarban town, hides one of the region's most enchanting treasures — the gorge of Devtakum, known locally as Nait Awng. Tucked between two steep hills, the gorge can be explored by floating on a simple bamboo raft. It's one of the few remaining places untouched by artificial construction — a world still shaped entirely by nature.
Hiring a local guide is mandatory for this trip. Once you reach Roangchhari, guides are easy to find — they'll take care of all the arrangements for your visit.
The journey itself is half the adventure. On the way, you'll pass through small villages, watching locals go about their daily lives, and see how jum cultivation paints patterns on the slopes. Near Devtakum, a few small shops serve local meals, which you can pre-order at a modest price. For those who prefer, simple Bengali food is also available.
Photography lovers will find Devtakum irresistible — but remember, while nature is free to capture, people's privacy deserves respect. Always ask before taking someone's photo.
Each community here has its own food habits and traditions, so be mindful and avoid making unkind remarks about their customs or meals. Respect and sensitivity will make your journey far richer.
And before you set off, don't forget one small but important thing — carry your national ID card.
