Golden lights over the Danube: A midsummer escape to Budapest
Few cities balance grace and grit like Budapest. From thermal baths and baroque bridges to long café mornings, the Hungarian capital offers a rare blend of beauty and ease — best savoured slowly, one summer day at a time
As a combined summer vacation and birthday celebration, my daughter and I boarded a Wizz Air flight on a scorching July afternoon, heading to Budapest Ferenc Liszt International Airport. Arriving in a new country always brings the familiar fear of being taken advantage of by the first taxi driver. But this time, I was well prepared — with Google Maps and my trusted ChatGPT by my side. It was a five-day trip, so we travelled light.
From the airport, we took a bus to the central station, then hopped on tram number 3 to reach the city centre — a simple and straightforward route. Our hotel was right in the heart of the city. After checking in and freshening up, we went out in search of dinner. For the first night, we chose something familiar — Italian food. Once we'd eaten, I couldn't resist going out again to explore Budapest at night with my daughter.
The city centre was alive with light and laughter. Grand churches, monuments, and old buildings glowed under soft white lights, as if freshly dressed. A cool breeze from the Danube brushed our faces, easing away the day's heat. It felt as though the city was a graceful young woman lost in a carefree dance.
Here, you're a nobody — no one knows or questions you. You can wander freely, without worry. That simple sense of freedom is what draws me back to Europe again and again.
Budapest is one of Europe's most loved destinations. The Danube River divides it into two parts — Buda and Pest — connected by a series of stunning bridges. Our adventure began with a ride on tram number 2, offering beautiful views of the river. Suddenly, we spotted one of Budapest's most iconic landmarks — the Széchenyi Chain Bridge.
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This bridge connects Buda and Pest. Before it was built, people crossed the frozen river on foot in winter and by ferry in summer. Count István Széchenyi, a wealthy noble and patriot, decided to change that after missing his father's funeral because he couldn't cross the river.
Determined to unite the two sides, he brought in English engineer William Tierney Clark and Scottish engineer Adam Clark. Construction began in 1839, and after years of work, the bridge opened in 1849 — a remarkable engineering feat that symbolised Hungary's progress.
Budapest by night is pure magic — the Buda Castle, Chain Bridge, Parliament, and Fisherman's Bastion all glowing in golden light reflected on the water
From there, we took a cable car up to Buda Castle, standing proudly on a hill. From the top, the city spread out like a painting — the river below, the Parliament shining across the water. The castle's history dates back to the 13th century, when it was built to protect the capital after the Mongol invasion. Over the centuries, it has been destroyed, rebuilt, and expanded, and now stands as one of Hungary's main tourist attractions.
Tourism is a major source of income here, and almost everything requires a ticket — castles, museums, even lakes. Restaurants usually include a service charge, and you're still expected to tip. Yet public transport remains affordable and efficient.
Inside the castle, Gothic and Baroque architecture blend beautifully, telling silent stories of Hungary's past. In the royal garden, statues seemed frozen in time, and at its centre stood Matthias Fountain, glistening in the sunlight. Standing there, I felt as if a film scene could begin at any moment — a perfect mix of history, beauty, and imagination.
We walked uphill to reach Fisherman's Bastion, one of the most enchanting spots in Budapest. Built between 1895 and 1902 in Neo-Romanesque style, its white towers offer breathtaking views of the city. Each of the seven towers represents one of the seven Magyar tribes that founded Hungary. Photographers crowded every corner, chasing the perfect shot of the Parliament across the shimmering Danube. Nearby stood Matthias Church, with its colourful tiled roof glowing under the sun.
We stopped at a café below and tried Hungary's famous Chimney Cake — a sweet, spiral pastry coated in sugar, cinnamon, and crushed nuts. It was delicious, especially with ice cream on top. Earlier, we had tried Lángos, a fried flatbread with garlic and cheese, but it was rather disappointing.
That evening, we dined at Pest-Buda Bistro, a traditional restaurant near the Bastion. I ordered Fisherman's Soup — not quite my taste — followed by Gulyás (Goulash), Hungary's national dish. My daughter had Chicken Paprikash and loved it. For dessert, I tried the famous Dobos Torte, a layered chocolate cake topped with caramel — pleasant, though not extraordinary.
Later, we took a one-hour night cruise on the Danube. Budapest by night is pure magic — the Buda Castle, Chain Bridge, Parliament, and Fisherman's Bastion all glowing in golden light reflected on the water. Cameras clicked endlessly, yet no photo could match the beauty seen by the eyes.
The next morning, we set off for the New York Café, often called "the most beautiful café in the world." After a few wrong turns on Google Maps, we finally found it. The moment we stepped inside, it felt like entering a palace — golden chandeliers, grand paintings, and live music filling the air. The prices, despite its reputation, were quite reasonable, and the atmosphere was unforgettable.
After coffee and cakes, we visited the Hungarian Parliament Building, one of Europe's largest and most beautiful legislative buildings. Completed in 1904 in the Neo-Gothic style, it stands proudly beside the Danube. Around it, Kossuth Lajos Square is filled with statues honouring Hungary's heroes — a living museum of the nation's history.
Just across the riverbank lies one of Europe's most haunting memorials — Shoes on the Danube Bank. A row of iron shoes stands silently to honour Jewish victims who were shot by fascists during the Second World War. Forced to remove their shoes before death, their final moments are immortalised in this heartbreaking monument. Standing there, I couldn't help but reflect on how history repeats itself — how humanity still struggles to learn compassion.
By evening, we found a small, local restaurant that felt straight out of an old film. The owner was kind, and though I still didn't fall in love with Hungarian food, their lemonade was the best I've ever had. I knew I'd miss that taste long after leaving.
We ended the day at Erzsébet Square, home to the Budapest Eye, which offers a mesmerising view of the city at night. Below, Pest buzzed with life while Buda stayed calm and quiet — a perfect balance of energy and peace.
The next day was slower. After brunch, we shopped for souvenirs and Hungarian crafts. The porcelain was beautiful but pricey, so I bought a few handmade trinkets instead. Later, we visited Heroes' Square (Hősök tere), built in 1896 to mark Hungary's 1,000th anniversary. The grand Millennium Monument, with Archangel Gabriel holding Hungary's crown, stands surrounded by statues of great kings and heroes — the soul of Hungarian pride.
Nearby, in City Park, we visited the Széchenyi Thermal Bath, famous for its natural hot springs. Built in 1913, its mineral-rich pools are open all year, even in winter. Relaxing in the warm water under the open sky was an unforgettable experience.
That evening, we went in search of a taste of home — and found Deshi Dine, a Bangladeshi restaurant. We feasted on fuchka, Hilsha fry, alu bhorta, dal, and meat curry — every bite tasted like comfort. The restaurant was run by young Bangladeshis, and we left with full hearts, wishing them success.
After dinner, we headed to the Citadella, where the Liberty Statue stands tall, symbolising Hungary's freedom. From there, the sunset view of the Parliament and Chain Bridge was breathtaking. Nearby, a few Bangladeshi students were singing under the fading sky — a sound that made the city feel even closer to home.
On our last day, we took a train to Lake Balaton, known as the "Sea of Hungary." The hour-and-a-half journey passed quickly, with beautiful countryside views. We rented a paddle boat, drifted across the lake, and explored small local shops. Surrounded by vineyards and rolling hills, Balaton felt like a dream.
That evening, back in Budapest, I tried a Korean restaurant — but most dishes were unavailable. Still, the city had already given me more than I expected — beauty, history, peace, and memories to hold onto.
Budapest is a city of art, music, and soul. Its cafés, castles, and riverbanks create an atmosphere that lingers long after you leave — a city that captures not only the eyes but also the heart.
