Fez: A city of 9,500 alleys

I took the road from Chefchaouen, the famous blue city of Morocco, to Fez. The journey carried me past quiet villages and little towns, each seeming to call me to stop and wander. But time pushed me forward, and I could only watch their stories slip by through the window.

After a while, my driver and guide, Ibrahim, said, "Eliza, this is another small town." We stopped for about three hours to explore the Roman ruins. The city, called Volubilis, was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997.

By late afternoon, I had reached Fez. My destination was its famous Medina — the vibrant old town where you wander through winding alleys, colourful markets and centuries-old buildings. 

As we passed through an ancient gate, Ibrahim said, "Now we've crossed from the new city into the old." Towering walls surrounded us, enclosing a world that seemed untouched by time. I was stepping into a 9th-century city, unsure of the surprises waiting inside. Cars could go no further; I had to leave mine in a quiet spot and continue the journey on foot.

The historic Medina alone is home to an astonishing 9,500 alleys.

I had heard that every city in Morocco has a Medina. However, the Medina of Fez is the largest in both size and richness. It is a city of remarkable diversity. Standing before its high walls, it was not difficult to imagine the conditions of that time. Just as the Great Wall of China was built out of fear of Genghis Khan, the Medina must also have had more than one reason for its formidable fortifications.

In my city, Dhaka, I have seen 53 alleys across 52 markets. I have also walked through the narrow lanes of small European towns. But in Fez, a much larger city, the historic Medina alone is home to an astonishing 9,500 alleys!

Moroccan Riad 

"'It is very easy to get lost here,' an American tourist said of Medina. He was right. My stay was arranged inside the Medina—not in a regular hotel, but in a riad, a traditional Moroccan house built around a central courtyard, often with a garden or fountain. 

Riads can range from modest homes to sprawling palaces. Mine was simple, yet the intricate details of its tiles and woodwork left me in awe. If this was a small riad, the larger ones must be beyond imagination."

Stepping into the Medina of Fez feels like entering a labyrinth. Nine grand gates open into this ancient city, but once inside, only your feet can take you further. Cars have no place here. Instead, I saw donkeys, horses, and mules hauling goods through the alleys, as if time itself had slowed down.

Medina is a world of its own — centuries-old madrasas, the oldest universities, guesthouses, thousands of food stalls, colorful souvenir shops, and workshops where artisans still hammer, dye, and carve by hand. Every corner seems to carry the weight of a thousand years.

A traditional Moroccan house called ‘Riad’ is built around a central courtyard, often with a garden or fountain.

The sounds never stop — tourists talking in many languages, shopkeepers shouting to sell their goods, and the clatter of animal hooves on the streets. The entire Medina feels like a festival that never ends.

Since exploring it alone is almost impossible in one afternoon, I hired a guide for just half an hour. In that brief walk, he led me through a 13th-century madrasa and into the legendary University of al-Qarawiyyin. I felt that even a lifetime wouldn't be enough to see it all.

The world's first university

Many countries claim to have founded the world's first university. The Chinese point to Shanghai Higher School, Pakistan claims Taxila University, and India highlights Nalanda University in Bihar. However, both the Guinness Book of Records and UNESCO recognise the University of al-Qarawiyyin in Fez as the oldest.

The University was founded in 859 AD, during the Golden Age of Islam. Fatima al-Fihriya, a wealthy woman from Fez, built the Qarawiyyin Mosque, which later evolved into a university.

Both the Guinness Book of World Records and UNESCO recognise the University of al-Qarawiyyin in Fez as the world’s oldest university.

Fatima's family had moved to Fez from Kairouan in Tunisia, which is why the university carries that name. Over time, it became a center not only for religious studies but also for subjects such as medicine, history, geography, and more.

Because of this institution, Fez was once called the 'Baghdad of the West'. Amena, my guide, a 30-year-old woman whose enthusiasm and command of English left a strong impression on me, told me these stories.

Her explanation of history made me feel as if I were walking through Qarawiyyin in ancient times. I walked through the narrow streets until I noticed a crowd of tourists gathered ahead. Pushing through, I finally reached a huge bronze door. It stood open, revealing a glimpse of the interior. Standing there, I realized this was al-Qarawiyyin. However, entry is no longer allowed, as it has now been converted into a mosque.

Through the doorway, my eyes caught a fountain shimmering in the courtyard, its floor alive with colorful mosaic tiles. I lingered there in silence, as if the weight of centuries pressed gently on my shoulders. Even now, the memory of standing before the world's first university still echoes within me like a timeless whisper.

The water clock 

Amena led me to another architectural marvel — the Bou Inania Madrasa, founded in 1355 during the Marinid dynasty, built in a blend of Marinid and Moroccan styles.

The craftsmanship was breathtaking — wood, stone, and mosaics woven together with extraordinary skill. The richness of the Middle Ages spoke through every detail, from Quranic verses carved into the walls to the delicate patterns of Islamic geometry.

Directly opposite the madrasa stood something I had never seen before — a water clock. Amena explained that this type of clock is among the rarest in the world. Though it no longer works, seeing it for the first time felt like stepping into a forgotten chapter of history.

One of the oldest tanneries in the world 

Amena said our next stop would be a shoe factory. The moment we stepped into the alley, a strong smell hit my nose. From the rooftop of a four-story building, I looked down at the bustling work below — this was the Chouara Tannery, one of the oldest in the world.

Dating back to the 11th century, the tannery has been in operation for generations. Workers still use the same age-old methods to transform raw animal hides into leather. 

As I mentioned earlier, Fez is famous for many things, and even its traditional hat carries a story. Known as the Fez hat or Rumi hat, it actually originated in Greece. However, during the Middle Ages, it became popular across the Muslim world and has remained a lasting symbol of the city.