Lack of waste recycling threatens apparel survival: Experts

The global fashion industry is entering a new reality. Millennial and Gen-Z consumers are becoming increasingly conscious of the environmental impact of the products they use. Clothing is now expected to be guilt-free and pollution-free.

In this context, experts believe that waste recycling has become essential for the sustainable growth of Bangladesh's ready-made garment sector as well as the future of the global circular economy.

They made these remarks at a seminar titled "Accelerating Circular Transition in Bangladesh's Textile Industry: Insights from SWITCH2CE Pilots," jointly organised by the Ministry of Commerce and BGMEA at Hotel InterContinental in the capital yesterday (6 May).

Speakers at the seminar said if circular economy practices and waste recycling systems are not effectively implemented in Bangladesh's ready-made garment sector, the long-term sustainability of the industry could be at risk.

They added that the major challenges in recycling include economic viability, policy inconsistencies, and limitations in the investment environment. If these issues are not addressed, the risk of losing competitiveness in the global market will increase.

Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) President Mahmud Hasan Khan said that the textile industry is considered one of the most polluting and resource-intensive industries, and therefore it is imperative to reduce its negative environmental externalities.

"Bangladesh is one of the largest producers of textile scraps in the world, around 6 lakh tonnes of pre-consumer textile waste is produced annually, of which only 5% is recycled locally," he said.

"This post-industrial textile waste, popularly known as "Jhut", has posed a different challenge to overcome in the path toward achieving circularity in the textile industry in Bangladesh," he added.

Michael Miller, Ambassador of the European Union (EU) to Bangladesh, said it remains a priority for circular transition due to its scale and waste generation. "The EU produces over 5 million tonnes of textile waste annually, while Bangladesh generates around 600,000 tonnes each year."

"These realities, along with concerns over social conditions and fast fashion, have driven the EU to act," he said.

He highlighted that the EU's 2022 strategy for sustainable and circular textiles includes ambitious measures such as eco-design requirements, extended producer responsibility, mandatory digital product passports, and stricter rules on greenwashing. Recent sustainability directives have also embedded circularity into corporate accountability frameworks.

"These policies matter for Bangladesh, as Europe is your largest export market, dominated by RMG products," Miller said, noting that Bangladesh's garment sector contributes about 11% to GDP and employs around 4 million workers.

Bangladesh's RMG sector generates approximately 6 lakh tonnes of textile waste each year, of which nearly 50% is blended fibre.

Michael Miller said, "We are therefore carefully assessing the request that we have received to negotiate a free trade agreement with Bangladesh," he said, adding that regardless of the graduation timeline, Bangladesh should plan ahead to boost competitiveness, circularity and eco-efficiency.

BGMEA Vice President Vidiya Amrita Khan said, "We don't produce garments for Bangladeshis; we produce for consumers abroad. Therefore, the outcomes – whether waste or pollution – also carry a shared responsibility that international partners must be part of."

Sheikh Hossain Muhammad Mustafiz, Director of BGMEA, told The Business Standard that there is significant potential to reuse discarded fibre and textile waste to produce new raw materials.

He noted that while 100% cotton waste can be recycled through mechanical processes, Bangladesh still has limited capacity for chemical recycling.

He said some initiatives have already been taken through pilot projects to assess the potential of waste collection, sorting, and reprocessing.

Ziaur Rahman, Country Manager of H&M Bangladesh, said one of the key challenges in advancing recycling, particularly chemical recycling, is the lack of a viable business case.

He added that chemical recycling requires significant investment, and concerns remain over its commercial feasibility. If recycled products are priced significantly higher, consumers are unlikely to accept them, as affordability remains a decisive factor.

He also emphasised that Bangladesh's textile industry has developed over decades based on virgin materials, and recycling has yet to be fully integrated into the system. As a result, recycled materials are still treated as waste rather than as a resource, despite an estimated market potential of $4–5 billion.

Commerce Minister Khandaker Abdul Muktadir said the transition to a circular economy is no longer merely an environmental issue; it is now one of the key prerequisites for strengthening the future competitiveness of Bangladesh's industrial sector, ensuring sustainable growth, and reinforcing the country's position in global markets.