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The Business Standard

Jilapi, Rooh Afza, bhaja-pora: Ramadan treats Chawkbazar never fails to serve

These iconic treats, deeply rooted in Bangladeshi culinary culture, continue to please our hearts. Despite changing trends and tastes, these time-honoured dishes remain ever-popular
Jilapi, Rooh Afza, bhaja-pora: Ramadan treats Chawkbazar never fails to serve

Bangladesh

Nayem Ali
12 March, 2024, 07:20 pm
Last modified: 12 March, 2024, 07:36 pm

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Jilapi, Rooh Afza, bhaja-pora: Ramadan treats Chawkbazar never fails to serve

These iconic treats, deeply rooted in Bangladeshi culinary culture, continue to please our hearts. Despite changing trends and tastes, these time-honoured dishes remain ever-popular

Nayem Ali
12 March, 2024, 07:20 pm
Last modified: 12 March, 2024, 07:36 pm

Mohabbat E Sherbet is a traditional beverage originating from the Indian subcontinent, known for its refreshing blend of Rooh Afza, milk, watermelon and ice, offering a delightful taste of sweet indulgence. Photo: Nayem Ali
Mohabbat E Sherbet is a traditional beverage originating from the Indian subcontinent, known for its refreshing blend of Rooh Afza, milk, watermelon and ice, offering a delightful taste of sweet indulgence. Photo: Nayem Ali

Remember Rooh Afza? The one drink that makes an exciting comeback every Ramadan. 

A glass of chilled water, a couple of ice cubes and a spoonful of the syrup – it's just enough to satiate your soul.

Amidst innumerable culinary delights, one cannot overlook the enduring popularity of Rooh Afza. 

The iconic rose-flavoured syrup, with its refreshing aroma and distinctive taste, remains a staple during Ramadan. 

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Photo: Nayem Ali
Photo: Nayem Ali

"People love Mohabbat E Sherbet," said Zakir, a sherbet seller in Old Dhaka's Chawkbazar.

Mohabbat E Sherbet is a traditional beverage originating from the Indian subcontinent, known for its refreshing blend of Rooh Afza, milk, watermelon and ice, offering a delightful taste of sweet indulgence.

Prices up, sizes down: Shrinkflation hits Dhaka's iftar markets

But the smell of Rooh Afza continues to evoke memories of cherished iftar gatherings and timeless traditions, cementing its status as a beloved beverage for generations past and present.

Another major staple for iftar, 'bhaja-pora' items like beguni, beguni, alur chop, chhola, and jilapi, have long been cherished favourites among us. 

Another major staple for iftar, ‘bhaja-pora’ items like beguni, beguni, alur chop, chhola, and jilapi, have long been cherished favourites among us. Photo: Nayem Ali
Another major staple for iftar, ‘bhaja-pora’ items like beguni, beguni, alur chop, chhola, and jilapi, have long been cherished favourites among us. Photo: Nayem Ali

These iconic treats, deeply rooted in Bangladeshi culinary culture, continue to please our hearts. Despite changing trends and tastes, these time-honoured dishes remain ever-popular.

Photo: Nayem Ali
Photo: Nayem Ali

Every year, without fail, Old Dhaka's Chawkbazar iftar market offers a huge display of iftar items galore for your table spread.

Walking through its crowded maze today was nostalgic.

On the first day of Ramadan, as the sun sets and the call to Maghrib prayer echoes across the bustling streets, it marks the beginning of iftar, the much-awaited meal time of the holy month.

In Bangladesh, iftar holds a special place in the hearts of many, as families and friends gather to break their fast together, indulging in various traditional and contemporary delicacies.

In recent years, however, the iftar landscape has witnessed the emergence of non-traditional, slightly more expensive items. 

Photo: Nayem Ali
Photo: Nayem Ali

Sheek kebab, chicken sashlik, and other contemporary delights have found their way onto iftar menus, catering to evolving palates and culinary preferences.

These dishes, often characterised by their fusion of flavours and global influences, offer a departure from the traditional fare, appealing to those seeking new experiences and gourmet indulgence. 

Photo: Nayem Ali
Photo: Nayem Ali

While they may come at a higher price point compared to previous years, their popularity is somehow growing.

During our visit to Chawkbazar, we encountered Monir, who specialises in making Shuti Kebab and Hariyali Kebab. 

Sheek kebab, chicken sashlik, and other contemporary delights have found their way onto iftar menus, catering to evolving palates and culinary preferences. Photo: Nayem Ali
Sheek kebab, chicken sashlik, and other contemporary delights have found their way onto iftar menus, catering to evolving palates and culinary preferences. Photo: Nayem Ali

When inquired about any price fluctuations from the previous year, Monir explained, "Last year, I sold Hariyali Kebabs for Tk150. Whereas this year, owing to inflation, the same kebab is priced at Tk170."

Photo: Nayem Ali
Photo: Nayem Ali

In the battle of the jilapis, a timeless debate ensues between chikon jilapi and mota jilapi. 

Each boasting its loyal following, the competition is fierce as aficionados weigh the merits of jilapis' crispiness, sweetness, and size.

In the battle of the jilapis, a timeless debate ensues between chikon jilapi and mota jilapi. Photo: Nayem Ali
In the battle of the jilapis, a timeless debate ensues between chikon jilapi and mota jilapi. Photo: Nayem Ali

While chikon jilapi's thin, delicate strands captivate with their refined texture, mota jilapi's generous proportions and syrupy richness really tempt the taste buds. 

Photo: Nayem Ali
Photo: Nayem Ali

"Mota jilapi has been ruling the scene for the last few years now. People of old Dhaka love this shahi jilapi," said Razu, a jilapi seller in Chawkbazar. 

Boro Baper Polay Khay, Old Dhaka's unique delicacy. Photo: Nayem Ali
Boro Baper Polay Khay, Old Dhaka's unique delicacy. Photo: Nayem Ali

The verdict remains divided, with devotees passionately championing their preferred variety, ensuring both enjoy a place of honour on iftar spreads.

While traditional iftar items hold steadfast in their appeal, the advent of contemporary delights signals a culinary evolution reflective of changing tastes and cultural influences.

Top News

Chawkbazar / Ramadan / Iftar

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