Aminul’s defiant path to Nakshi Kantha mastery

There was a time when for boys to thread a needle was nothing short of taboo – sewing was strictly seen as women's work.

Aminul Islam didn't know that. Until he grew a passion for sewing when he was still a boy.

Inevitably, ridicule followed the boy from a humble village in Jhenaidah's Shailkupa like a shadow. Even his close ones weren't supportive, and the constant criticism pushed him to the brink of despair.

At one point, even the thought of ending his life crossed his mind, he says.

But within Aminul was an artist unwilling to bow to societal pressure. Despite the odds, he found solace in his craft, letting his artistry bloom one stitch at a time.

Aminul's journey began when he was just nine or ten years old. Watching his mother sew quilts, tablecloths and pillowcases always fascinated him.

The vibrant hues and delicate designs captivated young Aminul, pulling him away from the typical games of his peers.

Only his mother would indulge in this "oddity" of her son.

"Sitting beside my mother, I would watch intently, absorbing her techniques. Sometimes she would allow me to help, handing me small tasks like stitching a handkerchief or decorating a tablecloth," he says.

Slowly, he mastered the art, his tiny hands mirroring the precision of his mother's.

Encouraged by his mother, Aminul's interest in embroidery grew, even as societal disapproval loomed large. His passion for needlework soon became a defining feature of his life.

Defying norms, building legacy

In 1990, Aminul moved to Dhaka, carrying with him a dream woven into threads of tradition. He aspired to revive the art of Nakshi Kantha, a centuries-old form of embroidered quilting unique to Bengal.

With just 10-15 artisans, Aminul began his journey in Dhaka, setting up a small workshop. His mission was twofold: to preserve a dying heritage and to pursue his lifelong passion.

Over time, his workshop in Dakshinkhan grew, employing 50-60 artisans, both men and women. They work under his guidance, bringing to life his intricate designs.

The art of Nakshi Kantha

Aminul, now in his late 50s, is known for his distinct Nakshi Kantha. His designs reflect the essence of rural Bangladeshi life – flowers, birds, rivers, trees and even traditional rice cakes.

He specialises in two types of Nakshi Kantha – Lohori and Sujoni.

The Lohori Nakshi Kantha, named after the Persian word Lahr, meaning "wave", is particularly challenging to create. Its stitches, though straightforward, form wave-like patterns, requiring exceptional skill and precision. A single quilt can take anywhere from eight months to over a year to complete, depending on its size and complexity.

Aminul personally oversees every detail – from pattern creation to colour selection and stitching techniques. "To maintain the uniqueness of my quilts, I ensure that every aspect is guided by me," he explains.

Recognition, challenges

In 2024, Aminul's quilt, Mayur Ponkhi (peacock), won the prestigious Award of Excellence for Handicrafts from the World Crafts Council. Competing against artisans from across the globe, Bangladesh shone through with awards for three items, including Aminul's Nakshi Kantha.  

"I didn't even know about the award," Aminul recalls. "It was the Bengal Foundation that suggested I submit my work for a competition. I sent it in as they advised, and to my surprise, I won the award."

Despite this recognition, Aminul's work is far from a lucrative business.

He sells his quilts through platforms like Facebook and partnerships with retailers like Aarong, who have been purchasing his products for over three decades.

To date, he has crafted 250-300 pieces of Nakshi Kantha. The price of a large piece ranges from Tk25,000 to Tk1,00,000, with dimensions of 80-90 inches. Smaller Nakshi Kantha are priced between Tk8,000 and Tk20,000.

However, out of the 300 Kantha Aminul has made so far, only about 50 have been sold.

So, how does he manage to pay wages to so many workers?

Aminul explains that he supplies items like bed covers, cushion covers, traditional crafts and hand-embroidered garments to Aarong, with the earnings from these supplies covering his workers' wages.

"Profit isn't my main goal," he says.

"I want the next generation to know about this tradition, to preserve it and to carry it forward. If I can save this art from extinction, I'll consider it my greatest achievement."

Aminul dreams of turning his social media enterprise "Banglar Selayi" into a global brand. He envisions a future where Nakshi Kantha is celebrated internationally.

"One day, the younger generation will join this craft," he says with hope. "They will see the beauty in our heritage and keep it alive."