India’s sari trade sees mixed impact from tensions with Bangladesh
In Varanasi, Prime Minister Narendra Modi’s parliamentary constituency, the globally renowned Banarasi sari industry has reported steep declines
Political and trade tensions between India and Bangladesh have disrupted the sari industry, hurting luxury weavers in Varanasi while giving cotton sari traders in West Bengal a boost.
Relations between the neighbours have been strained since August last year, when former Bangladeshi Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina fled to New Delhi after being ousted in an uprising. Dhaka has accused India of supporting Hasina, prompting boycotts of Indian businesses and attacks on minorities seen as her allies.
In April, Bangladesh restricted imports of Indian yarn and rice. India retaliated in May by banning Bangladeshi ready-made garments and processed food via land borders, though Dhaka can still export saris through sea routes, which traders say are costlier and slower, says Al Jazeera.
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Banarasi sari losses
In Varanasi, Prime Minister Narendra Modi's parliamentary constituency, the globally renowned Banarasi sari industry has reported steep declines. The saris, which can sell for more than 100,000 rupees ($1,130) each, are a popular purchase in Bangladesh during festivals and weddings.
Weaver Mohammed Ahmad Ansari said orders had dropped by more than half. Wholesale trader Pawan Yadav, who once supplied about 10,000 saris annually to Bangladesh, said his business had "come to a standstill" and that clients still owed him about 1.5 million rupees ($17,140).
The industry, already under pressure from demonetisation, COVID-19 and competition from power looms, has seen the number of weavers shrink to about 200,000. Advocates warn more artisans may abandon the trade unless support is provided.
West Bengal gains
By contrast, sari traders in West Bengal are regaining ground they had lost to cheaper imports from Dhaka.
"Saris from Bangladesh had devoured at least 30% of our market," said Tarak Nath Das, a trader in Shantipur. "Now we are recapturing our old markets." He estimated sales during the recent festival season rose at least 25% compared with last year.
Local traders said Bangladeshi saris had been popular because of attractive packaging and fabric quality. The new restrictions have reduced competition, with designers noting the timing ahead of the festival season gave local weavers a critical advantage.
Industry backdrop
India's sari sector is valued at about 800 billion rupees ($9 billion) and is a key part of the wider textile industry, which employs more than 3.5 million people.
Campaigners say that despite current challenges, India's handloom tradition remains unmatched globally. "The need of the hour is to re-position handloom as a product of luxury, and not poverty," said Ramesh Menon, founder of advocacy group Save the Loom.
