RMG export industry: The fashion problem and the sustainability solution
We need to alter and align our manufacturing techniques and raw materials sourcing in such a way that the final garment, when thrown into a compostable bin, biodegrades in 60 days. That would truly be the most elegant solution to solve the fashion problem
Our clothes are a way we express ourselves. Some of us chose bright colours over more subtle tones; some prefer casual wear; some prioritise comfort; while others opt for a more fit and formal look. But there is a major problem with our fashion.
Our clothes are a way we express ourselves. Some of us chose bright colours over more subtle tones; some prefer casual wear; some prioritise comfort; while others opt for a more fit and formal look. But there is a major problem with our fashion.
For starters, we are the second-biggest polluter, after oil. We consume 350 million barrels of petroleum oil every year. We are responsible for 10% of global carbon emissions, according to the United Nations. The apparel industry is the world's second-largest water consumer, accounting for 20% of the world's water waste.
Moreover, the polyester and synthetic materials used in the apparel industry do not biodegrade, leaving behind microplastics in the ecosystem for hundreds of years. The issue of overproduction, oversupply, unfairly low prices, and poor working conditions is also a concern. Surely that is not a future we want to be part of. At least not me!
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To make matters worse, we are constantly chasing the next big trend, the next Instagram photo attire—a phenomenon we call 'fast fashion'.
We own five times more clothing than our grandparents ever did. Average consumption has gone up from 10 clothes a year from 1980 to 80 today.
Not only that, we also seem to throw them away much quicker, just after three or four uses on average. Each year, more than 10,000 crore items of clothing are produced globally, according to some estimates, with 65% of these ending up in landfill within 12 months. Big problems, right?
Possible solutions
So any solutions?
Fortunately, there is, in two words — "Circular Fashion". It is a model of production and consumption, which involves reusing, refurbishing and recycling existing materials and products as long as possible. In this way, the life cycle of products is extended.
But wait a minute, is that really a sustainable solution?
To reduce our consumption, we need to tame our impulses towards new fashion trends. Can we really do that? If consumption drops, so will demand, shrinking production and supply. But can factories really survive with half their capacities empty?
Surely not. They either need to increase prices levels, or shut themselves down.
On the other hand, will consumers be willing to pay higher prices, in a world where purchasing power is eroding fast due to global wars, uncontrolled inflation and other grave uncertainties? Does the product fully decompose or does it need to be recycled to avoid ending up in landfills?
The answers are not going to be easy and that's okay, as these are hard problems, for which we need innovative and permanent solutions.
With over 20 years of industry experience, I believe the ultimate solution to the fashion problem should be this: "From seed to skin to seed".
Lost? Let me explain. From cotton seed, to yarn, to fabric, to garment and right up to the point when the end consumer trashes it into the bin, each and every step of this whole process needs to be reinvented and reengineered. We need to alter and align our manufacturing techniques and raw materials sourcing in such a way that the final garment, when thrown into a compostable bin, biodegrades in 60 days. That would truly be the most elegant solution in my opinion to solve the fashion problem.
So, how ready is Bangladesh to align and adapt to such paradigm shifts? Being an RMG owner, allow me to give you a panoramic view of the current state of future proofing of the industry and whether we will stand the test of time.
Sustainable Manufacturing
Circular Fashion and Sustainability are hot topics in Bangladesh right now. The good news is that Bangladeshi RMG Factories are leading from the forefront, by example, with their sustainability game.
The Rana Plaza tragedy led to an explosion of Green factories in Bangladesh. In the last 15 years, since 2009, Bangladesh has set an example by establishing 202 'eco-friendly' factories certified by the U.S. Green Building Council (USGBC), the highest such body in the world. Thirteen out of 15 of the world's top rated LEED Green factories are located in Bangladesh. That is truly remarkable!
Our facilities have become sustainable by using renewable energy sources, harvesting rainwater and reducing consumption to achieve net zero carbon emission. We are reducing wastage to the lowest possible level, ensuring safe working conditions, timely and fair wages and introducing numerous incentives and welfare programs for our workers.
By converting our factories into green ones, we are truly providing state of the art sustainable production facilities to the fashion supply chain.
But that solves only half the fashion problem.
Sustainable raw materials
The major challenge lies with raw materials used. Currently, Green factories are using fabrics, trims and packing materials which are certified by various reputed organisations like Organic Cotton, Better Cotton, BCI Cotton, Australia Cotton, Repreve Polyester, Okotex, Global Recycle Standards (GRS), Organic Cotton Content (OCS), Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), to name a few.
These certifications solve part of the problem, as they try to ensure that these materials are produced sustainably, i.e. use of organic cotton, with less harmful chemicals, minimise water wastage, ensure genuine polyester recycling, fair pay to farmers, and so on and so forth.
But the main problem still persists; that is, these materials do not biodegrade quickly enough and the final garment ends up in landfills for years. To reach our ultimate goal, which is for the garment to biodegrade in 60 days, we need to use natural colour cotton, which doesn't need to be dyed, so no harmful chemicals are used and not much water wastage is involved in the spinning, weaving and dyeing processes to make the fabric.
In addition, we need to use trims and packing materials like buttons, sewing threads, poly bags and others that are made from materials that easily biodegrade. Sounds easy, right?
Not so much. To achieve this, we need to invest in new scientific research and development, and hopefully discover new materials that are not only sustainably grown but also feel comfortable, look great, are priced right, and finally sustainably decomposed. Only then will we truly achieve sustainability in fashion.
Final words
The fashion industry's sustainability journey is currently at its very early stages. Although we are taking some big leaps, the final goal is still a long way away.
Many sustainable forums and platforms have popped up in recent years, which are having active debates, adding value and shaping the future of our fashion.
The ultimate solution to the fashion problem should look like this - sustainable materials used, produced in a green facility, shipped via logistics with net zero commitments, used by the consumer longer by refurbishing and then finally disposing off and decomposing in a couple of months. That to me would be a truly elegant solution.
Although we have not reached our final goal yet, but the race is very much on to be the first to the finish line, and I am very much hopeful for a bright and sustainable future for our planet. There is no other way!
Some scientists predict that the future of fashion may be a closet in your home with a built in 3D printer, using sustainably sourced raw materials to print your very own customised clothing, right in front of you. How about that!
Syed M Sajjad is the chief operating officer of Majumder Garments Limited.
Disclaimer: The views and opinions expressed in this article are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and views of The Business Standard.
