Five ways to incorporate tant into your lifestyle

While Tangail tant shari has been drawing all the attention recently - thanks to India staking a claim over it - we often tend to forget how diverse and massive our century-old handloom industry is, which goes far beyond just the shari. 

According to the 2018 Tant Shumari or Tant survey, 47.474 crore metres of fabric are produced in handloom every year, which covers 28% of the total clothing needs in Bangladesh. The survey says Bangladesh has 2,90,282 handlooms in more than one lakh handloom units. 

This includes the jamdani of Dhaka, the Monipuri handloom fabric of Sylhet, the silk from Rajshahi, the handloom textile of the hill tracts, Chapainawabganj, Kishoreganj, and, of course, the cotton and half silk of Tangail. 

"Modern-day women are now opting for one-piece kurtis and three pieces made of handloom fabrics. Boutique houses and stores have tant fabrics bought in metres, and women make kurtas, two-piece sets, stoles, and three-piece salwar kameez sets. In the men's section, we also have fatua, panjabi, lungi, etc,"  said Monira Emdad, owner of the renowned fashion store Tangail Saree Kutir. 

The designers add value to the fabric by dyeing the pieces in vegetable dyes, making different prints, batik, block prints, embroidery, etc. And not just wearables, tant fabrics - especially khaddar or khadi fabric - are used to make exclusive curtains, bed sheets, upholstery, and other household items as well. 

Tant-made fabric is different depending on the place it is produced. The muslin in Demra, Dhaka, is different from the fabric made in Tangail. The tant woven in Cumilla differs from that in Narsingdi, Sirajganj, and Rajshahi. 

"Depending on the geographic location, weather, and water of the river, the yarn changes its texture. Hence, the outfit you are going to make from these different fabrics is not going to be the same," Biplob Saha, a fashion designer and the owner of BishwaRang, said.

On 8 February, Farida Akhter, executive director of Ubinig, shared a post on her social media page. In that post, she quoted one weaver/ tanti Raghunath Basak, from Tangail. Basak said the tant shari weaving requires certain weather and temperature. Weavers have been exploring the country for that perfect weather for over two centuries. From Chhapainababganj to Dhamrai, Dhaka, the weavers went to Tangail and Kishoreganj. 

While Dhaka is the perfect place to weave muslin, it does not have the perfect temperature for weaving cotton fabrics. Tangail, near the river Dhaleshwari, had the perfect amalgamation of humidity and temperature for cotton weaving. That is why Tangail shari is so famous. 

While muslin is perfect for a delicate shari, other handloom fabrics are great for making shari, lungi, gamcha, or lawn clothes. 

Here are five ways you can incorporate handloom tant fabric into your lifestyle –  be it cotton, silk, half silk, or khadi.  

Shari

A traditional six-yard tant shari has a quintessential two-to-four-inch border and a decorative anchal. Using fine cotton yarn, the weavers bring out various artistic motifs inspired by nature on the jomin or the body of the shari. Half-silk cotton yarn is also being used now.  

The quality of the tant fabric depends on the yarn count as well – hence, the intricacy will also vary. Photo: 6 Yards Story

Some of the most popular and well-recognised motifs used in tant shari are bhomra (bumblebee), tabij (amulet), rajmahal (a royal palace), ardha chandra (half-moon), chandmala (garland of moons), ansh (fish scales), hathi (elephant), nilambari (blue sky), ratan chokh (gem-eyed), benki (spiral), tara (star), kalka (paisley), and phool (flowers).

Apart from traditional Tangail cotton, we have very rich Dhakai jamdani, muslin, silk from Rajshahi, and Monipuri cotton shari, to add to your collection. Besides boutique houses like Deshal, Bibiyana, BishwaRang, and Aarong, many online pages like Khut, Poter Bibi, Bjens, etc are working with weavers to produce authentic tant shari. 

While designing, the designers hark back to traditional motifs. "We use the motifs and modernise them with our twist - be it in colour, composition, or motifs. There was a time when wide borders on sharis were a thing, but now women prefer simple, minimalist designs for regular wear. They prefer comfort over the intricacy of work," Biplob added.  

The quality of the fabric depends on the yarn count as well – hence, the intricacy will also vary.

Lungi and gamcha

Be it the soon-to-be groom or our grandfathers, chequered lungi and gamcha are quintessential elements of a Bangali men's wardrobe. Even the Hindu brides are given a red and white chequered cotton gamcha, which they use on their 'gaye holud'. And if you are a mountain lover, a sturdy but light cotton gamcha is your favourite companion. 

The lungi and gamcha of Kumarkhali in Kushtia district are famous for their heritage and neat weaving. 

"We have been dependent on handlooms since ancient times. Think of lungi or gamcha - these are made on a handloom, although the quantity has decreased. The towel has taken over the market for local gamcha, while industrial power looms have taken over the local handloom," Monira Emdad said. 

Upholstery

Exclusive curtains, bed sheets, pillow covers, and table mats are also made from tant fabric, especially thick cotton, and khadi. "The texture of the upholstery is a bit thick and coarse, unlike wearables, as they are used for a longer time," Monira Emdad said. 

The upholstery section of Tant has a range of natural dyes, including indigo, brown, yellow, and crimson. Batik, block print, and tie-dyes make this section versatile. You can find authentic tant upholstery in Aarong, Deshi Dosh, Prabartana, and Aranya, as well as in the shops of New Super Market and Chandni Chawk. 

According to Biplob Saha, only a handful of people who fancy it and can afford to maintain local products still prefer using handloom products. 

"The reason people are buying more and more industrial products is that handloom fabric is costly, and there are certain steps to caring for handloom fabric. The colour may fade after a certain number of washes. For rough and regular use, the average person cannot afford this." 

Shawl

Monipuri shawls are one of the most popular accessories during the winter months. With its contrasting border, vibrant colour in solids, and temple motif on the border, this shawl adds a perfect touch of elegance, yet maintains the sheer simplicity of your outfit.

Photo: Collected

Also, weavers in Delduar and Kalihati in Tangail district make shawls in their looms. The weavers of Dupchachia upazila in Bogura make shawls using wool. Besides the boutique shops and fashion houses, these handloom shawls are available in the wholesale shops of New Market and Chandni Chawk. 

Kurta and panjabi

"Modern women get out of the home more than before for work. Besides simple minimalistic shari, they choose kurtas and three-piece sets, as they are comfortable for working outside. Rather than heavy, thick designs, they prefer comfortable colour and fabric for regular use," Biplob Saha said.  

Deshal, Aarong, Shada-Kalo, Aranya, and Prabartana have a selection of cotton, silk, half silk, and khadi in the kurta and panjabi sections. Photo: Deshal

Deshal, Aarong, Shada-Kalo, Aranya, and Prabartana have a selection of cotton, silk, half silk, and khadi in the kurta and panjabi sections.