Groundwater at risk: The apparel sector needs a sustainable water management water action plan now
Speakers called for integrated data systems, alternative water sources, rainwater harvesting, managed aquifer recharge, digital metering, and coordinated government–industry action to safeguard water security and strengthen the sector’s global competitiveness
Bangladesh's apparel sector is entering a defining moment as water scarcity, over-extraction, and rising pollution place unprecedented pressure on communities, factories, and the wider economy.
At a strategic consultation titled "Sustainable Water Management Action Plan in the Apparel Sector," held at The Business Standard office in Dhaka on 29 November, industry leaders, researchers, development partners, and regulators warned that the country's heavy dependence on groundwater—along with poor data, weak coordination, and limited incentives—has pushed key industrial zones like Gazipur and Savar into severe stress.
Speakers called for integrated data systems, alternative water sources, rainwater harvesting, managed aquifer recharge, digital metering, and coordinated government–industry action to safeguard water security and strengthen the sector's global competitiveness.
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The event was jointly organised by The Business Standard and WaterAid Bangladesh. Azman Ahmed Chowdhury, Director - Business Development and Quality Assurance of WaterAid Bangladesh, presented the keynote. The session was moderated by Sajjadur Rahman, deputy editor of TBS.
Hasin Jahan
Country Director, WaterAid Bangladesh
BGMEA and the RMG representatives have spoken very candidly about the challenges, and it makes me genuinely proud that Bangladesh now hosts more green factories than anywhere else in the world. This discussion also reminded us that water is no longer a sector-specific issue; it is becoming a national concern that demands shared responsibility from every stakeholder.
The government has already declared several unions in Rajshahi, Chapainawabganj, Naogaon and Patiya as water-stressed, restricting new groundwater extraction. Gazipur, home to a significant concentration of RMG factories, continues to see its groundwater table fall at an alarming rate. These realities highlight the urgent need for an integrated approach to water use across all sectors. We cannot afford to work in silos anymore; coordinated planning, stronger regulation and timely action must now guide our collective response.
Our water data exists, but it is scattered and difficult to access. Making this information public and transparent will enable industry, government and researchers to make informed, data-driven decisions. Only coordinated policy, efficient use, and the adoption of alternative water sources will allow us to secure a resilient and sustainable water future for Bangladesh.
Md Mostafizur Rahman
Senior Programme Officer, Embassy of Sweden in Dhaka
The keynote presentation, followed by the discussion of experts and practitioners, showed clearly that industry actually uses only a nominal share of water, yet we continue to face pressure because any compliance failure can push buyers toward India or Pakistan, where policies are often more supportive. That economic risk is what finally gets the government's attention.
The real gap lies in prioritisation. Water is still treated as a free resource, so factories have little incentive to reduce consumption or invest in efficient technologies. Some manufacturers are already trying, but they are not being rewarded for it. We need to reshape the economic signal: efficiency must pay off, and waste must have a cost. If we want real change, the policies has to actively encourage responsible water stewardship.
This is why Sweden, through the Sustainable Fashion Platform, is supporting a government–industry working group. Without coordinated incentives from both government and buyers, achieving sustainable water use will remain difficult.
The government should take this issue as seriously as water use in agriculture. Since the apparel sector relies heavily on freshwater, it is essential for the state to introduce incentives that help offset costs and encourage industry owners to adopt sustainable practices.
Md Delowar Hossain
Joint Director, Sustainable Finance Unit, Bangladesh Bank
When I joined Bangladesh Bank, I saw many discussions like this; yet the real, tangible outcomes have remained limited. As a central bank, we cannot directly regulate industries, but we guide banks and NBFIs by setting clear benchmarks for where their funds should flow.
That is why we created policies such as the Sustainable Finance Policy, the Green Taxonomy, Green Bond Guidelines, ESRM frameworks and climate-risk reporting requirements. We also reward top performers to motivate the wider financial sector and push sustainability forward in a structured, accountable way.
We have launched refinancing schemes and climate-risk funds, but concessional financing alone will not deliver the scale we need. Blended finance, credit guarantee schemes and private-sector-led management models are essential to bridge gaps and reduce risk for investors. Expanding these instruments will allow more institutions to participate meaningfully.
With stronger policies, smarter incentives and better coordination, we can scale sustainable projects, attract greater private capital, and finally turn discussions like this into measurable progress for the country's water and environmental future.
Md Yakub Hossain
Executive Director, Village Education Resource Centre (VERC)
I grew up in Savar, right in the middle of the industrial belt, so pollution isn't theory to me—I see it every day. Our rivers, especially around Hemayetpur and the EPZ area, have deteriorated so badly and groundwater is drying up and shallow tube wells no longer work due to overextraction.
People were once promised jobs and development, but now the community is suffering from polluted water, failing ETPs, and disappearing drinking sources. That is why I believe change must start small. The WaterAid model we saw today can be replicated, and media can help amplify it.
If industry, NGOs, and government cooperate, we can protect workers, support communities, and advance sustainable water management.
AKM Masum Ul Alam
Adjunct Faculty, Bangladesh University of Health Sciences
When I look back on my years at the ILO working with the RMG sector, I see water as one of our most urgent challenges. I still remember when bottled water arrived in the mid-90s and we joked nobody would buy it—now clean water is something we pay for.
Wastewater worries me even more. I have seen how untreated water floods into fields, enters our food, and leaves chemical traces even after cooking.
That is why I believe industry, communities, workers, and the environment must all survive together. For that, we need real coordination—government, BGMEA, brands, and partners like WaterAid working under a unified national policy and long-term roadmap.
Farhana Bari
Sustainability Developer, Lindex
In our supply chain, we are committed to reducing freshwater use by 40% by 2030, so every factory we work with must align with that goal. Through the Sustainable Fashion Platform, we connect factories with modern technologies and financial partners who can help them invest in water-efficient systems.
I keep saying that without a policy that puts a price on water, misuse will continue because industries still receive it for free. Our neighbours already enforce zero liquid discharge, while we struggle with space constraints and regulatory gaps.
Still, we are seeing progress—through WaterAid, we have supported sustainable water practices such as rainwater harvesting in multiple factories and expanded access to safe water for worker communities, schools, and informal settlements.
Nafis-Ud-Doula
Director, BGMEA
I believe our biggest challenge is that we still treat water as free—both at home and in industry. Awareness must start at the household level, because behavioural change at the bottom ultimately shapes how resources are valued across the economy. From the BGMEA perspective, individual factory efforts are actually significant, even if they often go unrecognised.
Many units are already investing in machines that reduce water use from 70 litres to as low as 40 litres, despite the high cost. We now have around 268 green factories maintaining strict standards such as heat recovery and rainwater harvesting, yet the majority still need technical and financial support. BGMEA is therefore shifting from a compliance-driven mindset to a leadership-based model—one where sustainability is not just about satisfying buyers but about demonstrating long-term responsibility to the country's water future. We want the industry to lead this transition, not simply react to external demands.
Zero liquid discharge is desired, but nearly 70% of factories lack the physical space to install the required systems. This is a structural challenge we cannot ignore. Without targeted financing for SMEs, and without government-led centralised treatment solutions for space-constrained industrial clusters, sustainability will remain out of reach for a large share of the sector. A coordinated model that blends industrial innovation, policy support and sector-wide leadership is the only way forward.
Md Hafizur Rahman
Chief Textile Officer, Fakir Fashion Ltd
After working in Gazipur for nearly 20 years, I have seen how drastically water quality and scarcity have changed. Previously, dyeing could operate without a WTP; now it is unimaginable. Groundwater keeps dropping, forcing us to treat water before use and reduce consumption wherever possible.
High-efficiency machines can cut liquor ratios from 1:10 to 1:6, but they require 30% more investment—yet both low-efficiency and high-efficiency factories receive the same buyer price.
Without benchmarking water use, groundwater extraction, steam recovery, or other relevant KPIs, fair pricing is impossible. Fakir Fashion invested early in efficient machines, but most factories cannot. Unless we diversify products, track consumption, and reward better performance, real sustainability will not happen.
Prof Kazi Matin Uddin Ahmed
Department of Geology, University of Dhaka
At the WaterAid–Business Standard discussion, I highlighted how Bangladesh is entering a critical phase of freshwater stress. Globally, water is abundant, but fresh and safe water is limited; and in Bangladesh, our dependence on groundwater has become unsustainable.
Nearly 80–90% of our total water use goes to agriculture, while domestic and industrial demand continues to rise. Yet we still lack accurate data on overall industrial consumption.
During our recent research in Gazipur, supported by UNICEF and the Swedish Embassy, I saw firsthand how excessive extraction and reduced natural recharge are pushing groundwater towards a non-renewable state.
I stressed that without sustainable water management, the consequences will affect public health, food security, and long-term economic growth.
Faria Fahim Badhon
WASH Officer, UNICEF Bangladesh
I want to highlight our recent study in Gazipur, conducted with UNICEF and Dhaka University. Greater Dhaka now extracts 1,500 million cubic metres of water daily, largely through 6,000 industries. In the Konabari cluster alone, 33 industries withdraw around 13 billion cubic metres annually, causing groundwater levels to fall by 2–3 metres each year.
The crisis is undeniable. Addressing it is not the responsibility of a single entity—government, industry, and communities must all contribute. We also need accurate measurement and integrated monitoring of groundwater.
Exploring technically viable solutions such as managed aquifer recharge, rainwater harvesting, and industrial metering will help us recover water sustainably and reduce over-extraction.
Azman Ahmed Chowdhury
Director, Business Development and Quality Assurance, WaterAid Bangladesh
In Bangladesh's apparel sector, the water challenge is urgent and requires a well-planned response. We need to understand the real impact of water scarcity, scale up effective solutions, and develop a roadmap involving government, industry, financial institutions, and development partners.
While some factories excel in water reuse and rejuvenation, many still struggle to manage water efficiently, affecting environmental and social governance standards.
Over-reliance on groundwater, declining aquifer levels, and unplanned urbanisation have worsened the situation, along with heavy-metal and chemical contamination.
We must prioritise water efficiency, diversify water sources, invest in managed aquifer recharge, scale up rainwater harvesting, and adopt digital metering. Incentives and shared financing models can encourage factories to invest in sustainable solutions, ensuring both water and energy efficiency.
By consolidating data, standardising audits, and strengthening sector-wide governance, we can safeguard water security, enhance competitiveness, and position Bangladesh as a global example of sustainable apparel production.
Partha Hefaz Shaikh
Director, Programme and Policy Advocacy, WaterAid Bangladesh
If we look at civilisation, it has always grown around water—Dhaka itself began with the Buriganga. The apparel industry, part of that civilisation, is highly water-intensive.
Today, we face rising dependence on groundwater, escalating pollution, and an enormous gap in the utilising alternative sources such as rainwater. Multi-stakeholder engagement shows that government, private sector, donors, and industry are all concerned and willing to act. Buyers now care not only about garments but also about water and waste management.
Our goal is to make Bangladesh a water-efficient apparel hub in the coming decades. By working together, we can explore sustainable water management and influence policy directions for the sector.
