Exploring the past through 'Old Dhaka Food Map'
Behind this captivating culinary guide are the creative minds of Salauddin, Insan, and Kirsten, whose collective passion and dedication gave birth to a wonderful initiative that celebrates the flavours of Old Dhaka
In Old Dhaka, food is more than just nourishment; it is a celebration of heritage, a reflection of the community, and a way of connecting with the past. The culinary heritage of this vibrant part of Dhaka continues to be passed down from generation to generation, preserving the traditions and flavours that shaped its identity.
Whether you are exploring the bustling streets or sitting down for a traditional meal, Old Dhaka's food heritage offers a journey that delights the taste buds and nourishes the soul, leaving a lasting impression of the culinary wonders this place has to offer.
The narrow alleys and bustling lanes are lined with small food stalls and carts, each offering a delectable array of snacks and delicacies. From the mouth-watering aroma of biryani wafting through the air to the sizzling kebabs grilled to perfection, the street food of Old Dhaka is an explosion of flavours and textures.
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Visitors can indulge in mouthwatering fuchka, chotpoti and haleem (a rich meat and lentil stew), among countless other delights.
Nestled within this historic place lies a remarkable project known as the "Old Dhaka Food Map", which came to life with the help of Goethe-Institut Bangladesh. Behind this captivating culinary guide are the creative minds of Salauddin Ahmed, Khademul Insan and Kirsten Hackenbroch. Their collective passion and dedication gave birth to a wonderful initiative that celebrates the flavours of Old Dhaka.
Exploring the map
In an age of digital maps, the Old Dhaka Food Map provides an opportunity to reconnect with the tangible. Scanning a QR code may provide all the information one needs, and indeed, this map also has one which leads to YouTube videos showcasing the various locations, eateries and foods mentioned. But holding the paper map in hand allows for a more immersive experience.
So, armed with the map, I convinced a friend to accompany me on the journey, starting from Zone 3 and working our way back to Zone 1. Our first stop was Jhunur Polao, a place steeped in nostalgia and personal connections. Thanks to the map, we were able to experience a part of Dhaka that had previously been confined to stories passed down from my father's early school days. Despite the ever-changing landscape of Dhaka, this place, along with a few other rare gems, has managed to endure, serving as a priceless connection to the past.
People who were working at Jhunur Polao said they've tried to keep the recipe the same as far as they can remember. They only served one item — a "Dhakaiya Style" chicken biriyani or Morog Polao, whatever you want to call it.
Continuing our journey through the zones, we arrived at Zone 2's Beauty Lassi, a beloved establishment since 1922 that serves refreshing glasses of lassi and lemonade. They also had Faluda on their menu. The lassi offered a delightful balance of sweetness and tanginess, leaving us feeling refreshed and energised to continue our exploration.
We had initially planned to explore on foot, but given the time of day, we opted for a rickshaw ride instead, allowing us to catch glimpses of iconic landmarks along the way. However, it is worth noting that many places in Old Dhaka close their doors after 5 pm, so planning accordingly is essential.
Our journey culminated in Zone 1, where we started off in Nurani Cold Drinks for some lemonade and made our way down to Alauddin Sweetmeat, an iconic establishment renowned for its varieties of traditional sweets.
The display counter was adorned with an assortment of mouth-watering treats, each meticulously crafted and steeped in tradition. We ended up buying a kilogram of "Kalo Jaam" to bring home.
What's on the map?
The map contains only 20 locations. At first glance, you would notice that most of these places have been around for over 30 to 40 years. The newest establishment on the map is "Jagannath Vojanaloy," which opened its doors in 2012.
The map is divided into three different zones, which also have major landmarks to divide them by. Zone 1, the Chawkbazar area, has Chata Minar Masjid and Tara Masjid. It also has places like Haji Nanna Biriyani, Mathawala Dilip Ghosh, who's been sitting on the same corner for over 50 years, and Alauddin Sweetmeat, a sweet shop that originated in Lucknow in 1894. The other establishments are Nurani Cold Drinks, Amina Hotel, Ananda Bakery, Royal Restaurant and Madina Mishtanno Bhandar.
Zone 2's landmark is the famous Ahsan Manzil. It consists of Jagannath Vojanaloy, Karim Chicken Polao Restaurant, Chon Ghor, Haji Makhan Biriyani, Beauty Lassi, Haji Shaheb er Bakharkhani and Yousuf Confectioneries.
Zone 3 is definitely the most historic of the three zones. Victoria Park serves as the landmark of the zone that is also home to Buddhu Purir Dokan, Beauty Boarding, Jhunur Polao Ghor, Uttam Ghosh Cafe and Cafe Corner.
There is a bit of a quirky backstory to Buddhu Purir Dokan.
As Salauddin explained that the name came from the word "Buddhu" meaning foolish. He always wanted his products to be good quality. He always used fresh oil or ghee and used to give away the leftover used oil to the local housewives for free. Apparently, women used to line up to get free used oil from the shop.
The origin story: Friendship and nostalgia
Salauddin and Insan's friendship and love for Old Dhaka grew strong over the years, with the two friends even using certain restaurants as landmarks for their meet-ups.
An architect by trade, Salauddin is also a restaurateur driven by an unwavering passion for preserving the district's architectural marvels.
Insan, on the other hand, carries deep-seated memories of his parents leading him through the vibrant streets of Old Dhaka, forging an enduring connection to the district's soul.
Insan fondly stated, "I belong in Old Dhaka, you know," when discussing the project.
It was during one of these excursions that they brought along their friend Kirsten, who happened to be the director of Goethe-Institut Bangladesh at the time. Kirsten recognised the potential of transforming Salauddin and Insan's beloved route into a map that could be shared with others. And thus the project took shape.
The trio, fueled by their passion and the support of the Goethe-Institut, worked diligently to create the Old Dhaka Food Map. However, just as the project was gaining momentum, the world stood still because of the Covid -19 pandemic and so did their project.
Despite the setbacks, their determination never wavered, and they eagerly awaited the moment when the world would reopen, allowing people to venture out and experience the magic of Old Dhaka once again.
Salauddin's words echo in my mind, "People romanticise Old Dhaka too much." And, as our conversation unfolded, he explained how they had been mapping this part of town, driven by their passion for the place and its heritage.
A taste of the past
For individuals who grew up listening to romanticised stories from their parents about certain parts of Dhaka, only to find them vanished or "upgraded" by the time they had the chance to experience them, this map is nothing short of a treasure.
It serves as a portal to the past we have long yearned for.
Exciting plans are also underway to organise a food walk, facilitated by the Goethe-Institut Bangladesh. This immersive experience aims to guide participants through the vibrant tapestry of Old Dhaka's history and flavours, providing a deeper understanding of the region's cultural heritage.
