A culinary journey through the flavours of Chattogram Hill Tracts

Amidst the hills and lush greenery of the Chattogram Hill Tracts lies a culinary heritage steeped in tradition and bold flavours.

The food here is a testament to the land's vibrant culture, where every ingredient tells a story. 

Four indispensable ingredients — nappi, bamboo shoot, chilli, and tamarind — stand out for their prominence and unique usage at the heart of this cuisine. 

Each has its own story to tell, but together, they form the backbone of the region's spicy and tangy cuisine.

Nappi: A culinary cornerstone

What makes nappi so crucial in the kitchens of the Chattogram Hill Tracts? For Van Ram Lawm Bawm, a member of the local Bawm tribe, the answer is simple, "Nappi is not just food; it's a part of who we are." 

This fermented shrimp paste is a daily staple, its flavour infusing countless dishes with depth and character. To make nappi, shrimp are sun-dried, ground with salt, and wrapped in wild hill banana leaves to ferment. This week-long process yields a pungent, savoury paste that enriches meals with unparalleled flavour.

Van Ram Lawm Bawm explains its role in traditional cooking, "We use nappi with all kinds of food and meat." He also adds that meat, locally known as "Meh Char", is often dried and preserved before being boiled with nappi to create hearty and delicious dishes.

Bamboo shoots: A crunchy delight

Bamboo shoots are locally known as  Banshkurul. 

"They're versatile, and their crunch makes every dish special," says Toni Tanchangya, a resident of Khagrachari. 

During bamboo shoot season, markets brim with freshly harvested Banshkurul, their earthy scent filling the air. 

The preparation is labour-intensive. The fibrous outer layers are stripped away to reveal the tender core, which is then boiled in salted water. Once prepared, bamboo shoots are used in stir-fries with dried fish, lentil-based stews, and even braised meat dishes.

"There's a joy in cooking with fresh bamboo shoots," Toni adds. "From mid-April to September, we eagerly await their arrival, knowing they'll add a special touch to our meals."

Pahari dhani morich: The fiery heart of CHT cuisine

How can one describe the role of chillies in the region's food? "They're the soul of our cooking," says U Ting Marma from Bandarban. 

The local Pahari dhani morich, known as "Mar Shia" in Bawm culture and "Ngroshi" in Marma culture, is prized for its intense heat and vibrant flavour.

"We use fresh green chillies during November and December, and for the rest of the year, we rely on dried red chillies and chilli powder that are made from them [pahari dhani morich]," U Ting explains. 

These fiery peppers are essential in everything from chutneys to robust curries, their heat bringing each dish to life. For the people of the hills, chillies are more than an ingredient; they are a fiery tradition passed down through generations.

Tamarind: The tangy touch

What gives hill tracts cuisine its signature tang? "It's tamarind, always tamarind," says U Ting Marma. During the harvest season, ripe pods are peeled and dried to ensure a year-round supply.

"Tamarind balances the heat of our dishes," U Ting says. Its sourness adds complexity to chutneys, soups, and stews. While lemon sometimes replaces tamarind during their season, tamarind remains the preferred choice for its bold, tangy flavour.

A symphony of flavours

The cuisine of the Chattogram Hill Tracts is a living story, where nappi, bamboo shoots, chillies, and tamarind dance together in bold harmony. Each bite carries the whispers of tradition, echoing the region's vibrant culture. Each ingredient plays a role in creating dishes that are as bold and resilient as the hills themselves, telling the stories of the people and their connection to nature.