Jeju Island: The Hawaii of South Korea with picturesque panorama

Tourists climb a scenic wooden trail overlooking Jeju’s stunning coastline and turquoise waters. Photos: Collected

As the plane was about to land on Jeju, I leaned against the window, searching for that first glimpse of the island. The sea shimmered below like crystal clear glass, and along the coast it was full with tall white spinning windmills. They looked less like machines and more like guardians, standing against the wind and sea. 

By the time the plane touched down, Jeju had already wrapped itself around me. This wasn't going to be just another trip.

Jeju is South Korea's island of contrasts and known as Hawaii of South Korea. It is three times the size of Seoul—a land of volcanoes and beaches, waterfalls and green tea gardens, traditions and modern cafés. To truly feel it, you need time to let its many moods unfold.

My first morning began with Seongsan Ilchulbong, better known as Sunrise Peak. A volcanic tuff cone formed over 100,000 years ago, it now stands as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The climb took me about half an hour, steep in places, but the reward was unforgettable: the entire east coast stretched beneath me, waves crashing far below, the morning sun lighting the crater's edges in gold. It was the kind of view that silences me.

Later that day, I sat on the shore to watch something extraordinary—the Haenyeo, Jeju's legendary women divers. At exactly 2 pm, they waded into the sea—some elderly, their wetsuits clinging to frail-looking bodies. But once in the water, they dive into 10-20 meters without oxygen tanks, returning with abalone, sea urchins, and octopus. 

Seongsan Ilchulbong, better known as Sunrise Peak, is a volcanic tuff cone formed over 100,000 years ago and now recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Once there were more than 20,000 of these women; now only about 4,500 remain. In 2016, UNESCO named them an Intangible Cultural Heritage, but standing there, it felt like more than heritage. It was courage, passed down through generations.

The next day, I headed to the Osulloc Tea Museum where the air smelled faintly of leaves and sweetness. I wandered through fields of neat green rows, their symmetry calming, before stepping inside to sample teas. A matcha latte and a slice of green tea cake later, I realised why this place had become a pilgrimage site for tea lovers. Across the road, the Innisfree Jeju House blended natural beauty with Korean skincare culture—a different but equally charming stop.

Jeju's volcanic soul revealed itself again at Jusangjeoli Cliff, where hexagonal black rock columns rise like organ pipes from the sea. Formed by Hallasan's lava more than 150,000 years ago. I arrived a little too late—the site was closed—but even from a distance, the cliffs were striking, their edges carved by time and tide.

Water is everywhere in Jeju, tumbling down mountains in silver sheets. Cheonjiyeon Waterfall, whose name means "sky connected with land," was one of the most impressive ones. The 22-meter cascade thundered into a pool below, its spray cooling the air. Families snapped photos, children ran between souvenir shops, and I simply stood there, letting the sound fill me.

But Jeju is not only about grand sights. Sometimes it's about slow walks that leave space for thought. On Songaksan Mountain and the Olle Trail, I strolled along cliffs where the sea stretched endlessly—a path gentle enough to pacify anyone's soul.  

Jeju is not only about grand sights. Sometimes it's about slow walks that leave space for thought. On Songaksan Mountain and the Olle Trail, I strolled along cliffs where the sea stretched endlessly—a path gentle enough to pacify anyone's soul.

Of course, food was part of the adventure. At Dongmun Traditional Market, I squeezed through crowds of locals and tourists, drawn by the smell of grilling fish and sizzling pancakes. I tasted abalone porridge, braised cutlassfish fiery enough to bring tears, and grilled mackerel so fresh it seemed to melt on the tongue. Between bites, I sipped freshly squeezed Hallabong juice—sweet, tangy, and unique to Jeju. It quickly became my daily ritual.

A colourful seaside village rests against the dramatic volcanic landscape of Jeju Island.

And then there were the beaches. With more than 200 kilometres of coastline, Jeju spoils you for choice. My favourite was Gimnyeong Beach, where calm cobalt waters met white sand, the breeze carrying whispers of salt and peace. Hamdeok and Hyeopjae beaches dazzled with emerald waters, while Yongmeori and Iho Tewoo offered rugged charm. At sunset, the horizon blazed with colours—the sea swallowing the last light of the day.

Jeju is also a star on screen. As a K-drama fan, I couldn't resist visiting filming spots. Netflix's 'When Life Gives You Tangerines' captured Seongsan Ilchulbong and Hyeopjae Beach, and 'Our Blues' was also filmed here. Standing where my favourite actors once stood felt surreal, but no camera could truly capture what my eyes were seeing right then.

Getting to Jeju is easy—almost too easy. The Seoul–Jeju route is one of  the busiest air corridors in the world, with more than 420 flights a week. From Dhaka, flights to Seoul cost between around Tk70,000 to Tk90,000, while domestic flights to Jeju are as little as Tk10,000. Budget airlines like Jeju Air or T'way make the journey affordable, though travellers should allow time for airport transfers between Incheon and Gimpo.

On the island itself, public transport is limited. Buses work well in Jeju City, but beyond that, renting a car gives freedom to explore without rushing. Mid-range hotels are plentiful: I stayed at Lotte City, visited friends at Park Sunshine in Seogwipo, and noted Jeju Pacific Hotel as another solid option. However, prices vary with the season.

Speaking of seasons, spring is the crown jewel. From late March to early April, cherry blossoms paint the island pink. I walked under them at Seongsan Ilchulbong, Jeju National University, and Cheonjiyeon Waterfall. The petals floated down gently, making it seem as if the island itself was having a celebration.

Looking back, Jeju may not yet be among the world's top tourist names, but it should be. From volcanic cliffs and emerald beaches to the bravery of its haenyeo divers to the sweetness of its Hallabong tangerines, Jeju is more than a place—it's a feeling.