US national apparel trade association urges Bangladesh to stop detention of RMG workers

The American Apparel and Footwear Association (AAFA), the US national trade association representing apparel, footwear and other sewn products companies, has called on the Bangladesh government to stop detaining readymade garment (RMG) workers who were involved in labour protests demanding a minimum wage hike last year. 

AAFA President and Chief Executive Officer Stephen Lamar made the call in separate letters to Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina and Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) outgoing President Faruque Hassan on Monday (18 March).

"I am reaching out to seek BGMEA's support of AAFA's repeated calls to halt the ongoing detention, as well as the continued threat of detention, facing thousands of workers linked to the protests in Fall 2023," Stephen Lamar wrote.

"As we have stated before, I also urge BGMEA to request the Bangladesh government to conduct a thorough investigation and ensure accountability for those implicated in the violence that resulted in fatalities and injuries among protesting workers.

"However, it is with deep concern that I must urge BGMEA to join our calls for the Bangladesh government to release all those who were arrested during the protests and to withdraw all criminal charges," he added.

"We are concerned over criminal charges brought against labour organisers, such as Jewel Miya, who was arrested for advocating for higher wages," Lamar said.

The AAFA president urged Faruque Hassan and its members to withdraw all first information reports lodged against the workers to remove any further threats of arrest against thousands of workers and prevent future harassment.

Lamar hoped the BGMEA would continue to make significant strides to ensure workers' welfare.

"In turn, these efforts will only strengthen and grow our mutually beneficial partnership," he stated.

The AAFA represents more than 1,000 famous brands, which collectively clock more than $490 billion in annual US retail sales.

Speaking to The Business Standard about the letter, Faruque Hassan acknowledged getting the letter.

He said BGMEA would need the names of the workers against whom a claim of detention and a threat of custody has been made to take action in this regard. 

A request has been made in this regard, he noted.

He further said there were some police cases against the workers for alleged involvement in the protests, which have already been withdrawn.

"Besides, the BGMEA has already directed its member factories not to take into account minor incidents.

"However, in the cases where workers who were found to be involved in vandalising and looting factories, beating up senior officials, the owners may choose to continue the police cases," he added.

In December 2023, the minimum wage for the RMG sector was increased to Tk12,500 in the face of protests by workers across the country. They had demanded a minimum wage range between Tk23,000 and Tk25,000.