Finnish firm’s wood pulp-made fibre deemed a game-changer for textiles

• Spinnova pioneers the method to produce fibre made from wood pulp
• It could reduce textile industry's dependence on cotton
• It avoids use of harmful chemicals
• It can be 100% recyclable
• The technology is now ready for large-scale production
• The innovation opens new opportunities for Bangladesh denim industry

Spinnova, a Finnish textile material innovation company, offers innovative technology to reduce the textile industry's dependence on cotton by creating a sustainable alternative cellulose fibre, which can be 100% recyclable.

This innovative process significantly reduces environmental impact, making it a game-changer for the textile industry.

After approximately a decade of development, the company has successfully pioneered a method to produce textile fibre from wood pulp or waste pulp through a mechanical process that avoids use of harmful chemicals or dissolution, explains Shahriare Mahmood, chief product and sustainability officer at Spinnova.

Talking with The Business Standard on the sideline of a seminar in Dhaka yesterday Mahmood, a Bangladeshi-born Finnish citizen, said that after initial piloting, the technology is now ready for large-scale production of environmentally friendly fibre, which could serve as an alternative to organic cotton.

"We hope it will be competitively priced compared to organic cotton, and our goal is to target this market segment," he added.

Eventually, it could be an alternative to cotton fibre as over the last few decades cotton production is declining due to climate changes while the demand is increasing, Mahmood said.

He also mentioned that Spinnova has opened new opportunities for the denim industry as Bangladeshi textile mill NZ Denim Ltd has been developing fabric locally using the fibre for two and a half years.

"Denim is a demanding application with specific aesthetics – sustainable alternatives for cotton have been so far difficult to find, but Spinnova has tested as alternative cellulosic fibre for denim fabrics maintaining its aesthetics,"Mahmood said. 

The hand-feel and aesthetical properties of textiles made with Spinnova are like natural fibre, such as cotton and linen, said Mahmood. 

Spinnova fibres offer absorbency comparable to natural cellulosic fibres and can be blended with other preferred fibres, he said, adding that the new fibres also have higher thermal resistance than cotton, a property tested by laboratories.

In lab tests conducted by the renowned sports bard Adidas, the new fibre demonstrated a higher thermal resistance value compared to other cellulose fibres, including cotton, Mahmood said, adding that Adidas has already launched hoodies made from fabrics produced with Spinnova fibres.

Spinnova Chief Revenue Officer Lasse Holopainen, who also attended the seminar, told TBS that the minimal capacity size of a plant would be at least 50 tonnes per day. 

Bangladesh has opportunity to adopt the technology

Being the second largest apparel exporter Bangladesh has the opportunity to adopt this technology, as most of the brands have set goals for increasing use of recycled or environment-friendly fibres, he said. 

In a presentation at the seminar held at Aziz Group Convention Hall in the city Mahmood said without use of any chemicals or water Spinnova fibre is made from Kraft pulp, which is also dissolving pulp- through a mechanical treatment process by dry spinning. It does not require any wash or rinses, he said.

The event, organised by SAS Enterprise in collaboration with Spinnova, aimed to explore innovative and sustainable solutions for the textile industry.

Rajibul Huq Chowdhury, managing director of Aziz Group, delivered the welcome speech.

A Matin Chowdhury, managing director of New Asia Group, emphasised the critical need for innovation to meet the growing demands of the global textile market and the importance of adopting sustainable practices to ensure long-term industry viability.

During the panel discussion Saleudh Zaman Khan, managing director of NZ Tex Group, delved into the practical applications and future prospects of sustainable fibre technologies in Bangladesh, addressing both opportunities and challenges. 

The panel discussion was moderated by Ayub Nabi Khan, pro-vice-chancellor of BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology.