Can LED face masks transform skin care at home?

LED light therapy, long used in clinical settings for skin conditions including acne, eczema and sun damage, is now moving into homes through masks and handheld devices that can cost between £40 and £1,500.

Manufacturers say the devices, which use light-emitting diodes (LEDs) to stimulate skin cells, can help treat acne scars, sun damage and fine lines. The global at-home LED device market is projected to reach £600 million by 2032, according to industry estimates.

Consultant dermatologist Dr Jonathan Kentley said the underlying technology, known as photobiomodulation (PBM), works by triggering cellular changes when light is absorbed into the skin, says the BBC.

"This allows new blood vessels and skin cells to be formed, along with more collagen and elastin," he told the BBC. "PBM has also been used to treat acne as it has anti-inflammatory effects and reduces the amount of oil in the skin."

While medical-grade devices have been used by dermatologists for years, at-home masks only became widely available about five years ago. Kentley said the main differences are the strength of the LEDs, the number of bulbs and their distance from the skin.

Dr Justine Kluk, who runs a London dermatology clinic, said the evidence for home-use devices is still limited.

"I don't believe anyone has run clinical trials of the LED mask at home to see if it is the same dose as a device you would use in a clinic or hospital," she said. "So I believe the benefits from using one of these masks is probably very modest."

Consumers remain drawn to the products, partly due to their visibility on social media. Videos on platforms such as TikTok show users wearing glowing red masks while watching television.

"Every other consultation I've had for the last six months has involved people asking me about LED masks," Kluk said.

Natalie O'Neill, a 29-year-old skincare content creator, said she bought one "out of curiosity" and noticed improvements after two weeks.

"I felt it prevented breakouts really well," she said. "It's helped to keep my skin tone looking more even."

Laurence Newman, chief executive of beauty tech company CurrentBody, said demand for non-invasive treatments is rising.

"We see that people use it for 10 minutes and get an instant glow afterwards," he said. "Women in particular are moving towards totally non-invasive skincare."

Experts caution that while PBM is considered safe, more research is needed. Kentley advised buyers to choose devices with EU safety certification and a high density of LED bulbs.

Kluk added: "I don't want to discourage anyone … but this is a lot of money to spend on a device, which could potentially support a good skincare routine. It's unlikely to do enough on its own."