Chikor: Surprising appeal of Sylhet's unique clay biscuit
Some believe Chikor contains minerals that combat anemia and enhance physical strength
People indulge in odd foods, often driven by custom or the promise of health benefits.
But clay? That's hard to fathom.
But in Sylhet, a unique snack made entirely of clay - though rare now - remains a longstanding tradition.
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Resembling cookies in appearance, the snack known locally as Chikor or "matir biscuit" (clay biscuit) stands out not only for its unusual ingredients but also for its captivating history and a hint of mystique.
Chikor remains Sylhet's exclusive local treasure. Street vendors near Sarada Hall in Chandnighat, along the Surma River, offer this unique snack, alongside other clay items.
While the primary customers are women, particularly those who are pregnant, the largest customer base consists of Sylheti expatriates, especially those in the UK, US and the Middle East.
Many buy Chikor in bulk to send to families abroad, vendors say.
No one really knows why
According to locals, the tradition of making Chikor originated in Habiganj and later spread to Sylhet and the surrounding districts. The word Chikor derives from the Persian words "chiya" (black) and "kar" (soil).
There is no definitive explanation for why people eat Chikor. Opinions vary among locals.
Conversations with elderly and middle-aged individuals in Sylhet reveal that, historically, impoverished communities relied on Chikor as a food substitute.
They believe Chikor contains minerals that combat anaemia and enhance physical strength, which is why rural women, especially during pregnancy, consume it to address nutritional deficiencies.
Additionally, some individuals consume Chikor out of habit, similar to chewing betel leaves or tobacco.
For instance, Laili Begum, a homemaker in the Madina Market area in Sylhet, notes that she ate Chikor during her pregnancy five years ago.
"It was a craving during pregnancy, and elders also recommended it, so I tried it. I'm not sure if it had any benefits," says Laili.
Her husband Murad Ahmed also consumed Chikor alongside her. He says, "It tastes mildly sweet and pleasant. Once you try it, you feel like having it again."
Eighty-year-old Rekha Rani Das from Rakhalganj, South Surma, adds, "Chikor is said to boost strength and prevent anaemia. In earlier days, people couldn't afford medicine or doctor visits, so they turned to Chikor. Almost all pregnant women consumed it back then, although its use has declined now."
Even the vendors at Chandnighat couldn't confirm its specific benefits.
Shahid Ahmed, a vendor selling clay products and Chikor for nearly 20 years, says, "Many people buy it, but I'm not sure why they eat it. I've heard it increases strength, appetite and serves as an alternative to iron tablets, especially for pregnant women."
He adds, "Some people who sell blood regularly also purchase Chikor."
Dr Jonmejoy Datta, deputy civil surgeon of Sylhet, notes that there is no scientific evidence to support any health benefits of Chikor.
"To my knowledge, Chikor has no proven benefits. In pregnancy, calcium and iron supplements are recommended, but these minerals are absent in clay. In fact, clay may contain harmful bacteria," says the doctor.
He further says, "No food or substance should be consumed without approval from the Food Safety Authority or the Directorate of Drug Administration."
How Chikor is made
Sajib Malakar of Lalabazar's Sanatan Para has been making Chikor for nearly 45 years, a tradition passed down from his father and grandfather.
He explains, "Chikor is made from clay gathered from beneath hills and mounds. The clay is first extracted by digging holes and using bamboo poles. After being soaked overnight to soften, the clay is mixed, kneaded and shaped into dough.
"It is then flattened with a wooden mallet and cut into biscuit-sized pieces with a knife. The raw Chikor pieces are dried in the sun for a day or two before being baked in a clay oven. After about two hours, the Chikor turns a dark colour and releases a fragrant aroma, often enhanced with rose water and other scents."
Describing Chikor as somewhat addictive, he notes, "Like cigarettes, it can become a habit, and it's mainly women who consume it."
Chikor is produced in areas like Lalabazar and Gawalabazar in Sylhet, as well as in Sunamganj's Chatak, Habiganj's Banachang, Bahubal and Madhabpur and parts of Moulvibazar.
Some Hindu families in these regions have been making and selling Chikor for generations.
However, with sales declining, many have turned their back on the profession.
Businessman Bishnupad Dey in Moulvibazar's Jagatsri area recalls, "In the past, members of the Shobdokar and Kumar communities used to make Chikor. When we were children, women from these communities would go door-to-door selling it. But now no one sells Chikor in this way anymore."
How's business?
Shahid Ahmad, a Chikor vendor from Chandnighat, says that he sells the snack for Tk90 to Tk100 per kilogram, with daily sales ranging from 15 to 20 kilograms.
He explains, "Most of our customers are relatives of expatriates, who buy Chikor to send abroad. Some also purchase from us to export to countries like the UK. For export, we make a special version, which is priced higher."
Another vendor, Al Kayyum Roni, notes that sales have sharply declined. "Older people still buy it occasionally, but the younger generation hardly ever does."
Currently, he sells only 4 to 5 kilograms per day.
Chikor maker Sajib Malakar says, "We sell wholesale Chikor for Tk40 to Tk50 per kilogram. For export, we charge Tk80 to Tk90 per kilogram for specially prepared Chikor."
