Astagram's cheese: A taste of tradition, now a national treasure

In the watery heartlands of Kishoreganj, where haors shimmer and folklore breathes, a humble dairy delicacy has risen to claim its place in history. 

Astagram's iconic cheese, once a local pride passed down through generations, has now earned the prestigious Geographical Indication (GI) certification, transforming it into another symbol of Bangladesh's rich culinary heritage.

The phrase "Haor-baor mache bhora, Kishoreganjer ponir sera" (Haor-baor abound with fish, but Kishoreganj's cheese is the best) was once a lyrical nod to local excellence, but today it's a declaration backed by global recognition.

During the World Intellectual Property Day 2025 celebration at Dhaka's Foreign Service Academy in the April last, the Department of Patents, Designs and Trademarks under the Ministry of Industries formally awarded GI status to Astagram cheese, marking a new chapter for this 400-year-old tradition.

From Mughal courts to modern markets, Astagram's cheese has journeyed through time, crafted by hand, preserved with care, and cherished by communities. With its GI tag, it now steps onto the world stage, promising not just economic upliftment but a revival of rural craftsmanship, women's entrepreneurship, and national pride.

Four centuries of tradition

Astagram's cheese boasts a history of nearly 400 years, dating back to the Mughal period. It is said that Delwar Khan's son, Ponir Khan, a senior officer of the Mughal army, after visiting cattle herds in Astagram, crafted this special food with his own hands. From him the name "Ponir" derived, and gradually the craft spread across the haor region, eventually becoming an exportable heritage.

Craftsmanship of production

Prepared through an entirely natural process without chemicals, Astagram cheese is made by curdling raw cow or buffalo milk with old curd. The curd is strained, pressed into bamboo moulds, and salted for preservation. It takes around 10 kilograms of cow's milk or nine kilograms of buffalo's milk to make just one kilogram of cheese.

New opportunities with GI certification

Cheese maker Nishan Mia said their product was already popular, but GI certification would now ease export opportunities. 

"The price and demand will rise. With more government support, this industry could bring a revolution in Astagram," he said.

Another artisan, Md Torab Ali, who has been making cheese since childhood, said their family tradition dates back nearly 300 years. He recalled that the "Dutta family" of Dattapara first began commercial production of cheese in this region, which later spread throughout the upazila.

Prominent lawyer and Kishoreganj-born Advocate Sheikh Md Rokon Reza remarked that Astagram cheese holds bright potential in Bangladesh's food processing industry. 

"If the government ensures quality control, training, and easy loans, many entrepreneurs will be encouraged to join this sector," he observed.

Astagram Sadar Union Chairman Syed Faiyaz Hasan Babu highlighted that Karbalahati has now become a cheese hub, saying "With GI recognition, this heritage will now find its place on the global stage."

Government plans and entrepreneurship

Astagram Upazila Nirbahi Officer Mosammat Dilshad Jahan said branding and promotion have already begun centring on cheese. 

"With JICA's support, a sales centre is planned, artisans are being trained, and low-interest loans will be provided," she informed.

Currently, there are 14 government-registered cheese makers in Astagram, but the number of interested producers is rising fast. Locals believed that with proper support, over a hundred families would return to the cheese the trade.

Tourism and export potential

During monsoon, tourists throng the haor areas and many buy cheese as souvenirs. Traders are now planning to use the GI logo for better branding, while the Department of Business Promotion is considering incentives for cattle and buffalo rearing.

Local resident Md. Uzzal Mia said, "Astagram cheese is not just food, it is our history, pride, and identity. GI recognition brings honour not only to Astagram but to the whole country."

Cheese maker, Rika Akter added that one kilogram sells at Tk 900-1200. "Whoever tastes it once, praises it highly," she added.

A tale of life in a product

With four centuries of tradition now officially recognized, Astagram cheese is more than food, it is culture, history, and identity. Today, it stands as a promising sector in the national economy, a gateway for women's participation, and a prospective export commodity.

From milk production and cattle rearing to cheese making and marketing, the industry sustains thousands of livelihoods, fosters women entrepreneurs, and embodies the pride of the region. 

Astagram cheese has thus become not just a delicacy, but a living emblem of Kishoreganj's heritage and identity.