The return of white gold: Reimagining cotton in Bangladesh’s future

Every year on 7 October, the world observes World Cotton Day. It's more than just a symbolic date on the calendar—it's a reminder of how deeply cotton is woven into the fabric of global trade. For Bangladesh, cotton is the backbone of the textile and garment industry—the very sector that drives over 80% of our export earnings. 

Yet, here's the striking reality: almost 97% of the cotton used in our factories is imported. That dependence is a weak spot in an otherwise powerful story. Let's look at where we stand, how the rest of the world is moving, and what Bangladesh's new Cotton Perspective Plan 2050 envisions for the decades ahead.

The global cotton picture

Cotton is grown in about 80 countries, supporting nearly 100 million families worldwide. The world produces around 25 million tonnes of cotton lint each year, with India, China, the United States, Brazil, and Pakistan leading the way. These five countries account for almost three-quarters of total global output. 

Cotton's endurance is remarkable—it can tolerate high temperatures of up to 42°C, requires less water than rice or sugarcane, and its deep root system helps it to survive droughts. It is also considered a carbon-negative crop, meaning it absorbs more carbon than it releases.

Many countries are now using biotech and hybrid cotton to boost yields and reduce pesticide use. India, for example, doubled its yield in less than two decades after adopting Bt cotton. Bangladesh, as the world's second-largest garment exporter, sits right in the middle of that global shift—yet it still relies almost entirely on other countries for cotton. 

The cotton gap in Bangladesh

The Cotton Development Board (CDB) was established in 1972 to promote local cotton cultivation. Commercial farming began in 1977–78 on just 1,215 hectares, producing about 1,400 bales. Fast forward to today: annual production is around 205,000 bales. 

That sounds like progress—but our textile mills need 8 million bales a year. Domestic output meets only 2–3% of that demand. The result is a massive import bill—over US$3 billion every year—which puts pressure on our foreign currency reserves and exposes our garment industry to international price shocks. 

The vision for 2050

The CDB's Perspective Plan 2050 aims for a big yet achievable goal: to meet 20% of Bangladesh's total cotton demand locally by 2050—without threatening food security. The plan focuses on expanding cotton cultivation into non-traditional areas: the Barind region, coastal saline belts, char lands, and the hill tracts—all places where major crops often struggle but cotton can thrive. 

Cotton's adaptability is its secret weapon. It can grow with limited irrigation, survive heat, and even tolerate short periods of flooding. Bangladesh has also made strong progress in research. With help from local and international partners, we've released one mutant (CDB Cotton M-1), several high-yielding hybrids, and Bt cotton varieties resistant to major pests. These improved varieties have raised average yields from about 6–7 maunds per bigha to 12–15 maunds, giving farmers higher returns and greater confidence in cotton farming.

Cotton, climate, and sustainability

Here's something often overlooked: cotton could actually be a climate-smart crop for Bangladesh. It needs less water than most other cash crops and tolerates drought and high heat—all key advantages as climate change accelerates. Its canopy helps prevent soil erosion, and its by-products such as cottonseed oil, husk, and cake have strong market value.

Around the world, "sustainable cotton" is becoming the standard. Initiatives such as the Better Cotton Programme and the Sustainable Cotton Initiative help farmers reduce pesticide use and improve soil health. Bangladesh has already started similar collaborations through the Sustainable Cotton Programme, aiming to integrate local farmers into global sustainable supply chains. 

Challenges on the ground

Still, there's a long way to go. Yields, though rising, remain below global standards. Mechanisation is limited—most cotton is picked by hand, raising costs.

The CDB plan stresses the need for mechanical harvesters, cost reduction, and farmer training to make cotton competitive. Outdated regulations also hold progress back. The Cotton Act of 1957 and related laws are no longer fit for modern agriculture. The plan calls for a complete update of these policies and a potential restructuring of the CDB into a Cotton Research and Development Directorate to better coordinate national efforts.

It also recommends setting a minimum support price (MSP) for cotton, offering seed subsidies, improving marketing and ginning facilities, and ensuring fair prices for farmers. Without these structural supports, cotton farming will remain a side activity rather than a serious agricultural enterprise.

Cotton beyond fibre

Cotton's value doesn't end with lint. Every part of the plant can be used—cottonseed oil for cooking, cake for livestock feed, husk for fertiliser, and biochar for soil health management. Cotton linters are used in paper, cosmetics, and even pharmaceuticals. This opens the door to a whole new by-product industry in Bangladesh.

On a cultural note, the CDB is also working with the Ministry of Textiles to revive muslin by researching the historic Phuti Karpas cotton variety—the same fibre that made Dhaka famous centuries ago. Reviving muslin isn't just nostalgia; it's an example of connecting innovation with tradition—creating a premium heritage brand under the "Made in Bangladesh" story.

Cotton and the garment link

No crop is more connected to our economy than cotton. The ready-made garment (RMG) sector employs millions and earns over 84% of Bangladesh's export revenue. Every shirt, every pair of jeans, every bedsheet starts with cotton. When global cotton prices jump, our factories face higher costs. When prices fall, mills lose money. That volatility is part of global trade—but we can cushion it with local supply.

Even if Bangladesh meets 20% of its cotton needs domestically by 2050, that could save billions in imports, strengthen rural incomes, and stabilise the textile value chain. Cotton self-reliance isn't just an agricultural target—it's a national economic strategy.

What needs to happen

To reach the 2050 goal, Bangladesh will need a coordinated push across several fronts. Policies and laws must be updated to reflect the realities of modern cotton farming, removing outdated barriers and creating incentives for innovation. Farmers should have easy and affordable access to high-yielding hybrid and Bt seeds, which can significantly boost productivity and reduce losses from pests. Investment in research and strong international partnerships will be essential to keep developing better varieties and technologies suited to local conditions.

Mechanisation also needs attention—from sowing to harvesting—along with regular training programmes to help farmers use new tools efficiently. At the same time, a fair pricing system should be introduced through a minimum support price (MSP) and better market access so farmers are protected from price shocks.

The government and private sector must work together to promote contract farming and encourage textile companies to invest directly in cotton cultivation. Finally, expanding sustainable certification programmes will make Bangladeshi cotton more attractive to global buyers who are increasingly focused on traceability and eco-friendly sourcing. 

As the world celebrates World Cotton Day 2025, the message for Bangladesh is simple: cotton is not just fibre—it's an opportunity. The fabric that once defined us could again become the fibre of our future.

Sketch: TBS

Abu Noman Faruq Ahmmed is a Professor at the Faculty of Agriculture, Sher-e-Bangla Agricultural University, Dhaka. Email: nomanfaruq@sau.edu.bd

Disclaimer: The views and opinions expressed in this article are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and views of The Business Standard.