From bookstore to stationery, from studio to clothing store: What New Market’s transformation says about changing Dhaka
After Light Bakery, Novelty Ice Cream and Symphony records, Zeenat Bookstore was the latest of New Market’s traditional landmarks to close down its doors
About two months ago, when I received news that the Zeenat bookstore would soon be shutting down, it did not come as a surprise.
Two years back, I had the opportunity to interview Faisal Mohammad, the owner of Zeenat bookstore. During our interview, which took place in his store in the late afternoon, a few customers walked in. One of them inquired about pens. Faisal promptly responded that they did not sell pens.
"Do you know why?" he asked me after a brief pause.
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"Many bookstores have transformed into stationery shops, selling only a limited selection of books, alongside notepads, pens, pencils, and various other items. The line between a bookstore and a stationery shop has blurred," he remarked without waiting for my response.
Noting the closure of numerous bookshops in recent years, he speculated that there would be a rise in hybrid shops and stationery stores. "Perhaps because stationery products cannot be downloaded"
Faisal further said he doubted the existence of any bookstores in New Market in five or 10 years. His prophecy has now become a reality. Upon learning about Zeenat's closure, I reached out to Faisal, who informed me that the store would be rented out to a stationery shop.
Zeenat joins a long list of landmark stores inside Dhaka's New Market that have closed down in recent decades, including Light Biscuit, Novelty Ice Cream, Brahmanbaria Ghee. Fabric House was once the go-to place for wedding sarees and it no longer exists.
Some of the closures were driven by individual reasons, but most were driven by changes in society, technology and other factors. For example, with the advent of digital photography, photo studios such as Hansa, AKS and Bombay Studio, disappeared, as did electronics stores like Sico, Yousuf Electronics, and Ashrafi Electronics. There were also cassette stores such as Symphony Records and Audio Touch which disappeared along with cassette tapes.
In place of these once-cultural landmarks, others have emerged. Fabric House and Light Biscuit have transformed into jewellery shops. The cassette shops and photo labs gave way to clothing stores catering to women and children.
Novelty ceased operations in the 1990s, according to Kamal Ahmed, an assistant in the New Market Association. Light Biscuit, on the other hand, closed down in the 2000s.
The cassette stores persisted in New Market until 2012-13, when the last remaining one, Symphony Records, closed its doors.
These changes were also driven by different factors. In the case of bookstores, business simply was not lucrative enough anymore.
Selling books in New Market is no longer viable, as one can find cheaper books just across the street in Nilkhet. On the other hand, stores offering a combination of stationery and books are somewhat more profitable, although their profit margins are not significantly higher.
There used to be nearly as many as 50 bookstores just two decades ago, whereas now, there are only 10-12 remaining.
Muhammad Jumma has been running Aligarh Book Store for over 30 years, inheriting it from his father. He firmly believes that purely from a business standpoint, opening a clothing or bag store would be a better idea. "I continue to run it because it has been my lifelong pursuit," he said.
The first lane on the left after entering New Market's Gate 1 is known as Library Lane. But most bookstores on the lane have transformed into stationery stores, ATM booths, watch stores, or eyewear stores. Nowroj Kitabistan, Knowledge Home, Modiuddin and Sons are other famous bookstores that were shut in and around the beginning of this century.
Legacy eateries make way for generic fast food
Although there is a proliferation of affordable fast food establishments at New Market, a few decades ago, it boasted a handful of unique eateries.
Sajida Rahman, who is now in her 50s, has cherished memories of the Light Biscuit store in New Market. Among the bakery's delightful offerings, it was the cream rolls that truly captured her heart. In those days, cream rolls were a novelty in the country, and only a select few bakeries ventured into creating these mouthwatering treats.
Reflecting on those years, Sajida reminisced, "Every time we visited, I would indulge in cream rolls from that place. This establishment had a reputation as a sought-after destination for tired shoppers in need of a quick bite. From their renowned Ovaltine biscuits to a delightful assortment of pastries, the bakery offered a refined selection of baked goods that catered to the sweet tooth across all age groups."
She described how cookies, chanachur, and other tempting delights were meticulously arranged in transparent jars in the shop.
Sajida also complained about the absence of ice cream shops that used to exist there. In the past, Igloo, Baby Ice Cream, and Novelty Ice Cream were popular places. "Novelty was the most famous. After school, I would come here with my friends. Families would gather, seeking solace on the lush green lawn, relishing scoops of creamy bliss."
The names of these shops now exist only in people's memories. Nowadays, they have mostly been replaced by inexpensive fast-food shops, all selling similar items. According to Firoz, the manager of the market's association, there are now 30 fast food corners in New Market.
The last surviving photo studio
New Market once boasted several photo studios, including well-known establishments like Bombay Studio, AKS Studio, Rima, and Hansa. These studios have all disappeared, making way for a surge in bag stores, shoe stores, and clothing stores.
Only one photo studio remains operational. This sole survivor, Photo Movie and Stills Studio, has been serving customers since 1958. Zillur Rahman, the man in charge of the studio, revealed that he has been working there since 1972.
Zillur said that in the early 2000s, New Market was home to more than 10-12 photo studios. Over time, the number steadily dwindled until only one remained.
In its heyday, these studios used to attract a substantial crowd, with over a hundred people visiting daily. However, nowadays, a mere 15-20 visitors at best visit everyday.
Zillur remembers there was once a constant stream of customers, especially during festive seasons like Eid, who would patiently wait in long queues to have their photographs taken. It was primarily lower and middle-class families who frequented these studios.
The decline of photo studios in New Market reflects the changing dynamics of the industry, influenced by evolving technology and consumer preferences. As digital photography and smartphone cameras have become more accessible, the demand for traditional photo studios has diminished.
The day the music died
The heart of New Market was once renowned as the "audio paara (neighbourhood)" or "cassette paara", teeming with numerous CD and cassette stores. One could easily find CD stores scattered throughout the place, however, Symphony Records was the favourite destination for discerning music enthusiasts.
Asif Khan, a businessman, fondly recalls his reliance on Symphony Records to meet his musical cravings. He would journey all the way from Mohakhali to New Market during the 2000s to visit Symphony Records and purchase CDs. He trusted that even if he could not find a particular album anywhere else in the city, Symphony Records would have it. He recalled another store named Audio Touch which was also popular back then.
The case for cassettes is quite obvious, as the technology has become obsolete. However, Md Firoz said in the present day, the landscape of New Market has witnessed a transformation. The CD-cassette stores have been largely replaced by clothing shops, bag shops, and a few jewellery stores. This shift reflects changing consumer preferences and the market's adaptation to meet the demands for different products.
Tanvir Alom, owner of Jasmine Bags, located in the middle section of New Market which housed most of the photo labs, electronic shops and cassette stores, has witnessed the transformation firsthand.
"Some famous shops, for example, in the case of Novelty, the children of the original owner were not probably interested in running it. The same goes for Light Biscuit. But at the same time, Olympia bakery, which is also a very old and famous shop, is still running very well. So, in this case, it cannot be said that this business model was bad."
Tailors and wedding saree shops on their way out
The evolving demands of customers have driven significant changes in the retail landscape. Shoppers now prioritise affordable prices and a diverse range of products that cater to their everyday needs.
One popular saree store that closed down is Fabric House, which is still remembered by a few old customers. A seller named Md Ali, in another saree store named Rajshahi Silk, told us that this store had closed around 15-20 years ago.
Ali has been working in New Market for the past four decades. He reminisced about the market's prominence in selling wedding sarees. "It's true that New Market still has many saree stores. But these are mostly inexpensive, everyday sarees. When it comes to wedding sarees, there are no longer that many stores."
Ali first started working at Fabric House. It was probably the most famous wedding saree store from the '70s to the early '90s.
In the past, New Market served as a hub for luxury products, including expensive sarees specifically designed for weddings. Many of the former wedding saree shops have transitioned into selling a broader range of clothing for women and children. Despite still offering sarees, the seller notes that the demand for wedding sarees has significantly declined, with few customers seeking them anymore.
Simultaneously, tailor's shops in New Market have also experienced a decline. Abdul Kalam, a tailor who has been a part of the market since the 1980s, recalls a time when numerous tailors could be found around Gate 2, with Bashir Uddin Tailors being one of the most renowned establishments.
However, at present, every neighbourhood and locality in Dhaka has its own tailors, diminishing the significance of New Market's tailors.
Kalam laments that the golden age of tailoring in New Market has faded with time. Previously, people would travel from outside the Dhaka metropolitan area, such as Narayanganj, Tongi, and Gazipur, to avail themselves of the skilled tailors in the market. However, this practice has declined as tailoring services have become more accessible at local levels.
Firoz said the changing landscape of the New Market reflects the dynamic nature of consumer preferences and the market's response to these shifting demands. The market has adapted to meet the need for affordable and diverse everyday products, resulting in the transformation of specialised stores and the decline of once-thriving industries like wedding saree sellers and tailors.
New customers, new preferences
Originally designed to meet the exclusive requirements of Dhaka's affluent residents in Dhanmondi and Azimpur, New Market has transformed significantly over time. Nowadays, New Market has evolved beyond being a shopping destination exclusively for the elite.
One of the key reasons for the transformation of the market from a shopping destination for the elite to a market more focused on the middle class is the emergence of an increasing number of supermarkets across the city, explained Koushik Prasad, associate professor of marketing at Dhaka University.
These supermarkets, with more luxurious options, coincided with the rise of the upper middle class and their increasing purchasing power. On the other hand, New Market's growth has been stagnant as conveniences and modern amenities were not added, Prasad also said.
It has emerged as a vibrant hub, attracting individuals from diverse backgrounds, particularly the middle class. The sections around Gate 2 and Gate 3 have consistently revolved around clothing, shoes, and similar items. However, the most significant change has occurred in the section around Gate 1.
Currently, the majority of shops in the market focus on clothing. Firoz speculates that in the future, New Market might solely become a hub for clothing stores.
Another significant change that's taking place is the subletting of the front premises of most shops – these places are now exclusively for hawkers selling clothes.
