Lights, rituals and festivities: How the streets of Dhaka embrace Durga Puja

The origin of Durga Puja in this region goes back to the time of Mughal Emperor Akbar. Despite wide-ranging contentions about when and how the tradition of grandly celebrating Durga Puja was initiated, most researchers agree that it was introduced in the sixteenth century in Bengal (Tahirpur, in Rajshahi district) by the feudal king Kangsa Narayan. When he was declared the Diwan of Bengal, the king, upon being advised by the priest, performed the Durja Puja in celebration.    

From then onwards, the celebration grew in scale in the following centuries. Around five centuries down the line, we now witness a very grand and pompous celebration of Durga Puja in our country, with participation from people belonging to different classes of society.  

This year as well, a total of 2,857 puja mandaps across the country, including border areas and the capital, have been set up. There are at least 441 puja mandaps in Dhaka, Narayanganj, and Gazipur city corporations; 694 are in Chattogram metropolitan, Raozan, and Rangunia; and 311 are in other locations. All these puja mandaps, accompanied by extravagantly bright lighting and decorations that stretch far along the streets, have created a festive ambience. 

In Puran Dhaka, the Dhakeshwari Temple and the Sri Sri Raksha Kali Mata Temple in Shakhari Bazar remain at the heart of Durga Puja celebrations. These two places draw the largest crowds, with streets and homes alive in colour, light and devotion. Beyond the old city, Kalabagan and Banani transform their sports fields into grand spaces of worship, with elaborate pandals and makeshift temples giving the impression of entire neighbourhoods turned into places of devotion.

To reach the Dhakeshwari Temple, visitors almost always end up walking, as the sheer volume of traffic makes driving near the temple premises almost impossible. The walk, however, becomes part of the puja experience.

The streets are lined with vendors selling everything from traditional sweets such as naru, murali, batasha, shondesh, nolen gurer shondesh, nakul dana and kadma, to small toys and trinkets for children.

Among them are sellers of miniature drums, brightly painted 'tomtom gari' toys, and even peacock feathers. The regular bhelpuri and fuchka hawkers are still there, though they find themselves momentarily outshone by vendors offering items more closely tied to puja.

"I love how the lights decorate the streets during puja, and the sense of joy it brings," said Protyasha Ghosh, an economics student who had come with her friends to see Durga at Dhakeshwari Temple.

The air gets thick with the fragrance of dhup incense, while the rhythmic beat of the dhak sets the pace of celebration. In Shakhari Bazar, worshippers line up to serve bhog (sacred offering to deity) to Durga. Women are dressed in red saris, adorned with their finest jewellery, while men wear panjabis or formal clothing, marking the occasion with their best attire.

Food stalls are a constant attraction of this celebration. Families and groups of friends gather over steaming packets of khichuri, assorted sweets and savouries. Ice-cream vendors also do brisk business, a welcome relief in the lasting September heat.

Amit Patel (pseudonym), a food stall owner who set up a makeshift shop near a puja mandap, said, "This is the time of the year when we do good business by setting up makeshift food stall. People come here not just to have food, but to have fireside chat and catch up with old friends and family members. That's the best part of this celebration." 

Nearby stalls sell shankha bangles, bells, idols, handicrafts, and even plush toys shaped like Ganesh. Instruments such as the dotara, tabla and dhol are on display, adding another layer of tradition to the marketplace.

For children, Durga Puja brings a different level of excitement. Seven-year-old Shoumo, beaming in his little dhuti and panjabi, proudly explained, "I came here with my parents and sister to see Durga Ma, and to serve her bhog — and then to have some proshad (sacred offering) myself!" His delight was unmistakable as he was pulling his mother's hand gently and pointing towards the sweets on display.

While Shakhari Bazar and Dhakeshwari capture the grandeur and intensity of puja celebration, the atmosphere at Kalabagan and Banani is slightly different. Kalabagan, being more open, offers a calmer setting. The crowds are easier to walk amongst, yet the sense of devotion remains as strong as possible. Here too, pandals rise impressively against the night sky, lit with colourful displays.

Banani, meanwhile, carries its own distinction. The celebrations are more exclusive, with certain areas accessible only by special passes. The stalls and food vendors are noticeably more expensive, but the decorations and arrangements reflect the effort and resources invested. Despite the exclusivity, people come in large numbers, eager to witness the artistry of the pandals and to participate in the rituals.

The essence of puja in Dhaka, however, lies not in the differences between neighbourhoods, but in the way it brings people together. Families, friends, and strangers all join in a shared rhythm of worship, food, and festivity. It is not unusual to see people of different faiths wandering through the streets, drawn by the lights, the music, and the sheer sense of togetherness.

At Dhakeshwari, as the priest chants hymns and incense smoke rises, organisers tirelessly remind the crowd not to take selfies with the deity. Long queues form as worshippers wait patiently to offer their bhog.

Children, restless with excitement, tug at their parents' hands, eager to move on to the next sight. Couples take photographs in coordinated outfits, and groups of friends wander from one pandal to another, chatting and laughing.

This is the rhythm of Durga Puja in Dhaka, bringing a community together. From the traditional heart of Shakhari Bazar to the wider, more contemporary settings of Kalabagan and Banani, each corner of the city adds its own note to the celebration.

During the last five days of worship, the streets remain alive with music, fragrance, and laughter. Durga Puja in Dhaka, for some, is the attraction that lies in the rituals and offerings; for others, in the food, the lights, or the joy of being part of a crowd united in celebration.