How one family perfected the art of making white jaggery
The craft of jaggery-making has been passed down through generations for over 200 years, with some claiming it dates back 300 years. We spoke with Sohrab Hazari from Jhitka, who shared insights into their family’s tradition and process
Unlike its darker counterparts, this pale-hued sweetener boasts a refined texture and a delicate sweetness. The texture is airy, and fluffy, almost like a meringue, but with a harder consistency. As you press it in your hand, it crumbles.
This golden-white delicacy has quietly sustained generations in the heart of Manikganj, where the whispers of tradition blend with the rhythm of rural life.
Hazari white jaggery, or Hajari Gur, is a rare and cherished variety of jaggery renowned for its exceptional purity and craftsmanship. This delicacy is the result of meticulous preparation techniques that have been passed down through generations of the Hazari family in Jhitka, located in the Harirampur upazila of Manikganj district.
The district has been branded with the name of this jaggery, "Hazari Gur and Baulgan, the real life of Manikganj" by the government.
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Some say the craft of jaggery making has been passed down for over 200 years, while others claim it has been practiced for 300 years. To learn more about this tradition, we spoke with Sohrab Hazari, one of the eldest members of the Hazari family, who resides in Shikdarpara or Gachipara in Jhitka. He shared insights into his family's history and their jaggery-making process.
"I am the fifth generation of my family to continue making this traditional gur," said Sohrab Hazari. "My great-great-great-grandfather, Hazari Pramanik, was a gachi (a person who collects date sap from the stems of date trees) and made gur. Since his time, our family has been dedicated to this craft."
There is a local tale surrounding Hajari Gur. One afternoon, a dervish (a wandering ascetic known for their piety and spiritual devotion) approached Hazari Pramanik and asked for some fresh date juice, just as he climbed down after placing a pot on a palm tree.
Hazari Pramanik explained to the dervish that the pot had just been set, and in such a short time, only 10–15 drops of juice would have gathered. However, the dervish insisted that he climb the tree again, bring the pot down, and let him drink the juice. Out of respect for the dervish's request, Hazari Pramanik climbed the palm tree once more. To his amazement, he found the pot completely filled with juice.
Taking a pot full of sap, Hazari Pramanik climbed down from the tree, fed the sap to the dervish, and humbly embraced the dervish's feet. The dervish then hugged him and said, "Whatever jaggery you make, its reputation will spread across the country and beyond." From that day, the jaggery became known as Hazari Gur, named after Gachi Hazari Pramanik.
In the past, more than a hundred families in the village used to make jaggery, but now only 28 artisan families continue this tradition. "Currently, only three of us from the Hazari family are managing the business. The younger generation is focused on their studies and planning to go abroad. To preserve this craft, we have taught it to 28 families who are allowed to use our special 'Hazari seal,'" Sohrab Hazari explained.
They also make traditional dark Patali/ Gur from date syrup, which is sold at Tk 800 per kilogram, while the white Hazari Gur is priced at Tk 1,700–1,800 per kilogram.
"People from various districts and regions place orders for our jaggery. In fact, you can't buy it from us today because it's already fully pre-ordered," Sohrab said.
What is so special about this gur
While a kilogram of traditional dark date jaggery or patali gur requires 8-9 litres of fresh date sap, the white jaggery needs 12-15 litres.
"During the four months of winter, we make 50-60 kg dark Patali Gur, and less of the White Gur. Because it needs more time and date sap," said Sohrab.
Making white jaggery involves the same steps in making traditional patali gur or date syrup jaggery, however, there are two additional steps that make it distinct.
"You can make patali gur with the fresh date sap the day you collect it. To make white Hazari Gur, we collect date juice for three days in a row. Then, we give those trees a gap for the next two days. On the third day, we again prepare the trees to collect juice. After accumulating and heating the sap that has been collected for seven days, we make the white gur," he explained.
When the sap is boiled over a special metal pan, the sap gets thicker and heavy. "We specifically use hay strands for firing the stove. The fire from wood is very strong, which can burn the sap. The fire from the soft dry hay is very smooth," Saleha Begum, one of the jaggery artisans, said.
The hot amber liquid is then poured in an earthen pot and continuously stirred with a wooden pole. When the sugar from the thick syrup solution is disturbed or pulled, it encourages the sugar molecules to quickly form crystals, which gives it a white appearance. It is more aerated and becomes fluffy.
For this 'Batasha' like texture, the white gut is used to make payesh or rice pussing, according to Sohrab. "While the dark jaggery is used in various pitha and winter sweets, the rich and aristocrats use our white gur to make payesh, which gives its distinct taste, without changing the colour much," he added.
How to find the original Hazari Gur
Due to high demand, some unscrupulous traders have started producing fake jaggery and selling it as Hazari Gur at a lower price, tarnishing its reputation.
"In 2021, we applied for and obtained our trademark. Now, we use trademark no. 228848, and we have distinct packaging, where the dried jaggery is wrapped in special tissue paper," said Piash Khan, one of Sohrab's relatives.
The jaggery-making process takes place during the four months of the winter season, when date trees produce sweet sap. During this time, the artisans, or gachi, dedicate themselves to the craft.
"We have to pay each gachi or artisan family Tk 3 to 4 lakh per season, which lasts from November to February, sometimes extending into March. Once the season ends, they return to other professions or businesses," Sohrab Hazari explained.
Revered by both confectioners and health-conscious consumers, this artisanal jaggery is more than just an ingredient; it's a reflection of heritage, craftsmanship, and the lasting legacy of Manikganj's jaggery makers.
