The bitter aftertaste of Madhupur's sweet pineapples

In Madhupur's Jalchhatra Bazar, I met Jhuma Rani, who was returning from a day's work in the red-soiled hills and loading her pineapples onto a pickup van.

She was tracking the crates being taken to the market. "Our lands here are hilly tracks. No other crops grow here, so we are forced to cultivate pineapples. We simply don't have any other way," she told me.

These pineapples — golden, spiky, and sweet — are more than just fruit. In the Madhupur region of Tangail, they are a way of life. The area has long been known as the "Pineapple Capital" of Bangladesh. 

These pineapples recently earned Geographical Indication (GI) status. This badge of identity is supposed to protect local farmers and ensure better value for their hard-earned harvests. But the reality on the ground tells a different story.

A fruit of pride, a harvest of loss

Pineapple farming spans 6,630 hectares in Madhupur alone, with Tangail district contributing 275,000 metric tonnes annually. Around 85 percent of these are of the Giant Q variety, known locally as Kalender, prized for their size and juicy sweetness. The rest include Honey Queen, locally known as "Jaldhugi" and Ashwina varieties.

Despite all of these, the financial scenario is harsh. "This year, we had a better harvest, which is a good sign, but the price was high last year. This year, the syndicate has forced us to sell at cheaper prices," said Atab Ali, Joint Secretary of the Jalchatra Kacha Bazar Somiti. 

"We sell a minimum of 100 trucks of pineapples every day from here. Each truck carries 3,000 to 10,000 pineapples. But the growers get the least share," he said.

Daily transactions in Jalchhatra bazar alone exceed Tk1 crore. Pineapples are bought at Tk10-18 apiece, sometimes even as low as Tk10 for Jaldhugi, and then sold for Tk40-50 in Dhaka and other major cities. This huge markup does not find its way back to the farmers.

"8000 pineapples can be harvested from just 0.3 acres of land. At Tk10 each, that's Tk80,000. But it takes a whole year — 18 months for Kalender — to grow them. The costs? Nearly Tk50,000 in labour, fertiliser, and pesticides. So, the farmer earns only Tk30,000 to Tk40,000 a year," Atab Ali further explained.

Abu Talib, a wholesaler, agreed with this sentiment and added, "That's less than Tk3,500 a month — barely enough to survive in today's economy. The amount we get is not enough. Livelihood nowadays is very expensive."

Rudro Mong, a young farmer in Garobazar, believes the system is slanted against them. "They buy from us for Tk10-15 and sell for Tk40-50. We are the ones who invest our time, energy, and resources. Even though we had more harvest this year, we earned less than last year," he said.

There's also a lack of basic infrastructure. "Our products could get more value if we had proper storage facilities. Currently, we have none. We are forced to sell immediately after harvest," Rudro added.

The marketplace 

During our recent visit to Jalchhatra, Ashrabazar, Moterbazar, and Garobazar, we saw mountains of pineapples. The negotiations, shouting, and loading resembled a chaotic ballet. 

Buyers and sellers from across the country go there daily. But beneath the crowd lies an invisible current of tension and frustration.

"I cultivated pineapples on seven acres and sold about 80,000 pineapples — but not at satisfactory prices like last year," said Alam Sheikh of Moterbazar. 

Like many others, he's bound by the nature of the land. The hilly red soil, while ideal for pineapple, is unsuited for other crops. Diversification is not an option. In a way, these farmers are both blessed and trapped by the fruit.

During Ramadan, prices peaked at Tk20, giving a short relief. But with the end of the season, prices plunged again. "There's no government support, none," said Atab Ali.

Sweetness at a cost

Farming pineapples isn't just labour-intensive — it is also financially risky. Zashim Ali, a farmer from Madhupur, explained a darker side of the industry. 

"I planted pineapples on two acres of land last year and had a loss of Tk50,000. Without using excessive chemicals, the fruits don't grow large, and the colour doesn't develop properly," he said.

In today's market, size and appearance often matter more than taste or nutrition. "Consumers can't tell the difference between natural and chemically grown ones. Large, brightly coloured pineapples are in high demand, and people are consuming them without knowing the health risks," Zashim added.

This growing dependency on chemicals, pushed by market demands and buyer expectations, has led to both environmental and health concerns. Ironically, as Bangladesh eyes global markets and value-added products, the very farming practices needed to meet local market standards may hinder international opportunities.

The government has acknowledged the problem and is now promoting safer production methods, including reduced chemical use and the promotion of pineapple-based products like jam, juice, and jelly for local and export markets. But implementation is slow, and benefits are yet to reach the grassroots.

GI status: Recognition without reward?

The Geographical Indication (GI) status for Madhupur's pineapple was a moment of pride for the locals. For years, the region's pineapples were famous informally. Now, the recognition is official. However, on the ground, not much has changed.

"GI status was supposed to help us; we thought it would mean better prices and more protection. But nothing has improved for the farmers," said Rudro.

GI status can be a powerful tool for branding and protection, potentially boosting exports and securing better market positions. But it requires enforcement, awareness, and investment. 

Without a proper system to connect the GI status to actual market benefits, such as direct selling, cold storage, fair trade models, or digital platforms, farmers like Jhuma and Zashim remain excluded from the rewards.

Buyers know the value

"I've been coming here for the last 15 years. The pineapples here are exceptional," said Moti Miah, a buyer from Dhaka.

The Kalender variety, especially, is famed for its juicy sweetness and high yield. Local agriculture officials estimate that Bangladesh produces around two lakh tonnes of pineapple each year, with Madhupur's share being among the best. 

Unlike in earlier years, when pineapples were seasonal from July to August, farmers now grow them year-round. But this extension has not helped stabilise prices or improve livelihoods. 

Instead, it has made the farmers even more vulnerable to syndicates and middlemen who capitalise on surplus and lack of cold storage to drive prices down.

Despite the challenges, there is resilience in Madhupur. Pineapple farming is not just a profession — it is an inheritance, a survival tool, and a point of pride.

As we left the market, Jhuma Rani's words stayed with us. "We are forced to cultivate pineapples. We simply don't have any other way," she said. In a land where sweetness grows in abundance, bitterness should not be the farmers' only reward.