2500 years of Taxila: A modern city lost in the depths of history
Once a vibrant hub of civilisation, learning, and trade, Taxila flourished for nearly a millennium before fading into ruins. Today, its remnants in Pakistan’s Punjab province still whisper the story of a city where East met West
Among the names that appear when recounting the history of ancient civilisations of the Indian subcontinent, Taxila stands out as one of the most significant. Surprisingly, this once-thriving centre of Buddhism now lies within today's Islamic Republic of Pakistan.
From the 6th century BCE to the 5th century CE—nearly a millennium—Taxila flourished as an extraordinary hub of civilisation, culture, arts, literature, and scholarship. Known as one of the subcontinent's most important commercial routes connecting Central and West Asia, the historic Silk Road passed directly through this city.
Yet, with the passage of time, relevance fades. The trade routes of once-vital Taxila gradually declined in importance, and finally, the invasion of the Huns brought about the downfall of this ancient city. Slowly, its once-rich civilisation was lost beneath the sands of time. But history is never just a tale—once written, it cannot be erased. Bearing witness to this truth, the ruins of Taxila still stand today in Rawalpindi, Punjab, Pakistan, echoing nearly 2,500 years of legacy.
Taxila was the capital of Gandhara, one of the sixteen Mahajanapadas (great states) of ancient India. About fifteen centuries after its decline, we recently had the chance to visit the ruins of this ancient city.
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It was mid-February this year. By around 1 pm under the scorching sun, we arrived at the ancient city of Sirkap, known as the "Second City" of Taxila. Earlier that morning, we had visited the Taxila Museum, where artefacts unearthed from the soil were meticulously preserved. These included sculptures of Gautama Buddha from different eras and postures, ancient agricultural tools, locks and keys, crockery, medical instruments, terracotta, jewellery of men and women, and even a complete map of ancient Taxila.
Before venturing into Sirkap, let us briefly revisit the history of Taxila.
According to our museum guide, and based on accounts in the Ramayana and various encyclopaedias—Taxila was founded by Bharata, the younger brother of Lord Rama and the second son of King Dasharatha. The city was named after Bharata's son, Taksha. As early as the 6th century BCE, Taxila was renowned as a radiant centre of knowledge, education, and research. Legend holds that Sanskrit grammarian Panini, political strategist Chanakya, and physician Jivaka all pursued their intellectual endeavours here.
Over its long history, Taxila came under the rule of many powers. It was initially part of the Persian Empire. In 326 BCE, Alexander the Great conquered the city. Subsequently, the Bactrians, Scythians, Parthians, and Kushans established their rule here. Finally, the Huns of Central Asia dealt the fatal blow, stripping Taxila of its cultural, commercial, and civilisational importance. Each regime, however, left behind its unique cultural imprint, making Taxila's history richly diverse.
Under Emperor Ashoka, Taxila became an important Buddhist pilgrimage site. To promote the faith, he built the Dharmarajika Stupa, believed to have enshrined relics of Gautama Buddha. Folklore also claims that in the 1st century CE, Saint Thomas, the Christian missionary, visited Taxila, making the city a sacred destination for people of multiple religions.
At Sirkap, our guide was Asad Abbas, an experienced official working under Pakistan's Ministry of Archaeology for 18 years. He explained that ancient Taxila comprised three principal cities: Bhir Mound, Sirkap, and Sirsukh. Among them, Sirkap was the main commercial hub, with a well-planned urban layout of houses, shops, roads, and temples.
The site's grandeur was evident as soon as we entered through its wide highway. Built in a grid pattern, the 18.5-foot-wide main road still displays remnants of guard posts, shops, and houses. Yet none of these remain alive today—only ruins over 1,500 years old testify to the memory of this once-planned city.
The ruins of ancient Taxila were first identified in 1863 by Sir Alexander Cunningham, founder of the Archaeological Survey of India. Later, between 1913 and 1934, British archaeologist Sir John Marshall led systematic excavations, unveiling Taxila's hidden past to the modern world.
"At least 25,000 people lived in this city," said our guide Asad Abbas. "Taxila was a commercial hub on the Silk Road. The locals mainly traded in gold, terracotta, and leather, while silk was imported directly from China." Despite being 1,200 kilometres from Kashgar near the Chinese border, Taxila served as a key connecting point between Afghanistan and China.
Abbas informed us that Sirkap spans roughly 500,000 square metres, but until the 1930s, only 150,000 square metres had been excavated. Much of it still lies buried underground. Of more than 200 archaeological sites identified here, only 23 have been excavated to date. The main reason, Abbas explained, is that much of the land is privately owned, requiring government purchase and budgeting before excavation—an expensive and complex process.
Originally founded by the Greeks, Sirkap was further developed under the Scythians, Parthians, and finally the Kushans. But when Kushan emperor Kanishka built the new city of Sirsukh nearby, Sirkap's importance waned. Trade, settlements, and strategic focus shifted, and eventually the Huns destroyed it altogether.
Even so, ruins reveal that Sirkap was not just a city but a meeting place of religions and cultures. Hindus, Buddhists, and Jains lived side by side here. Excavations have uncovered remains of Jain temples, Hindu sun temples, and Buddhist shrines, as well as astronomical tools like sundials used to measure time and seasons.
By 2:15 pm, we left Sirkap for another major site: the Dharmarajika Stupa, about 3 kilometres away.
Built on a hill-like elevation, the Dharmarajika Stupa carries deep historical significance. After the bloody Kalinga War in 261 BCE, Emperor Ashoka renounced violence, converted to Buddhism, and began promoting its philosophy of peace and compassion. He is believed to have enshrined relics of Buddha—bones or teeth—within this stupa. Excavations here have uncovered a golden reliquary casket, thought to have contained Buddha's remains.
According to tradition, Ashoka collected Buddha's relics centuries after his death and built 84,000 stupas across his empire—Dharmarajika being one of them. To this day, Buddhist devotees visit this sacred complex, where more than 75 stupas have been uncovered. These include main stupas, stupas for revered monks and teachers, and smaller votive stupas erected by individual devotees for worship and offerings. Surrounding the stupas are cells and monasteries where monks are believed to have meditated and studied. Some archaeologists even argue that an ancient Buddhist university existed here, though Sir John Marshall disagreed, describing it instead as a religious training and worship site.
Even today, devotees visit Dharmarajika to pay respects. On our visit, we saw a monk in saffron robes climbing a high platform to offer homage.
Though originally built under Ashoka, the stupa was later expanded and renovated, particularly during the Kushan period (1st–2nd century CE). Artefacts recovered here, including Ashokan inscriptions, are preserved in the Taxila Museum.
Walking among the ruins, one realises that Taxila was more than just an ancient city—it was a grand stage of knowledge, culture, and civilisation. Born of Greek city planning, Persian rule, Buddhist expansion, and East-West exchange, Taxila embodied not war, but the sharing of wisdom and cultural fusion.
Despite being recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1980, Taxila remains little known in world media. With proper promotion and conservation, this ancient city could earn global renown comparable to Pompeii in Italy or Machu Picchu in Peru.
